around the world in 180 days

Other than the goat, there wasn’t much on the bus ride that bears commenting upon, except that it was another long, dusty, overcrowded bus ride that wasn’t particularly pleasant. There were even people riding on the roof of the bus. We’d paid for a 14 seat tourist van, so we were a little miffed when we arrived at the bus stand and found our tickets were for the regular bus, and by the time we reached Besi Sahar 6 hours later, we were ready to be done with buses.

As mentioned, the road used to end in Besi Sahar, so this is where trekkers generally begin hiking, but in recent years, the road has been extended 10 km or so, so you can ride all the way to the village of Bhulbule, but Anna and I elected to walk. The “road” isn’t much more than a bumpy jeep track and the bus was even more packed than one we’d taken from KTM.

It’s amazing what a difference a 2 hour walk can make. Besi Sahar was hectic as only a 3rd world bus stand can be, but Bhulbule was calm, peaceful, away from the noise and traffic and bustle that set my nerves on edge and made me apprehensive for no reason. We stayed at Thorungla, a small guesthouse that, hopefully anyway, will be typical of our accomodation on this hike. It was spare but clean and served excellent food.

We’ve now got our first full day under our belt and are feeling quite optimistic about the long journey ahead. Last night, the enormity of this hike began to set in. 3 weeks is an awful long time to be out hiking. It can be a little intimidating if you think about it too much. Today was a tough hike, with some long climbs, but it wasn’t too killer. We were done by 3:30. The nicest part is knowing that when you’re done hiking, a shower, cold drinks and a hot meal are waiting for you. It makes things much easier.

We spent much of today hiking with a Frenchman named Henri. He’s 32 and very nice, funny, enjoyable to talk to but not afraid to walk in silence. It seems we will be spending much of the next 3 weeks with him, because that’s kind of how it works: you start at the same places, you stop at the same places. Andrew would love it, he’d be practicing his French with him, but instead, we’re making Henri practice his english.

This hike is a great way to experience the culture of Nepal. It is by no means a wilderness hike. We see Nepalis constantly, carrying gigantic packs that must weigh 150 or 200 lbs, or driving small, sullen herds of donkeys, or just walking from town to town. The path we’re on is the main route from village to village, so everyone who lives along here uses it for daily life. It’s fascinating to be so in the midst of traditional Nepali life, even if it has changed to accomodate the influx of tourists.

That’s the other thing that surprises me: we haven’t seen as many tourists as I expected to. They are there, but they’re fewer and farther between than I’d expected. It makes guesthouse owners all the more grateful when you stop, as you may be their only customers, as we are at the place we’re at tonight.

Enough. Another big day tomorrow!