always keep moving
Sharks drown if they stop moving because they can’t force water over their gills like regular fish can. I’m not sure what happens to us if we stop moving, but we’re not going to find out for a while. We spent 3 days in Munich, 3 days in Austria, now we’ll spend 3 days in Budapest before going to a lake in Southern Hungary for (you guessed it) 3 days.
Budapest had a very different history over the last 50 years than Vienna did, and it shows in the streets of the city. While the Soviets and communism have been gone for the better part of 20 years, there are still some scars visible. Vienna is clean, sparkling, a spotless museum of a town that celebrates it’s history of Habsburg rule. Budapest is covered in graffiti, many buildings are concrete rectangles, and many of the archetectural remnants of the Habsburgs aren’t in the meticulously restored state they are in Vienna.
Still, Budapest seems to have a lot of character. It sits on an economic divide between the eastern world and the western world: it’s one of the few places in the world where we could see a real, Italian opera performed in a beautiful theatre for 4 bucks. We saw “Don Pasquale” and our seats were worth 4 bucks (they were on the side and 4 floors up, so we had to lean forward during the whole performance) but elsewhere in the world, they’d cost maybe 8 or 10 times that price. I’ve never seen an opera before, but it was actually entertaining. We were dressed in our normal traveling clothes and many of the other people were dressed in formal wear, suits and ties and fancy dresses, but we were in the corner so it didn’t matter.
On our last day in Vienna, we went to 2 of the city’s many famous museums: the Haus der Musik, which is a music museum and the MAK, which is an abbreviation that translates to Museum of Applied Arts. The music museum was cool; there were lots of interactive exhibits, but it was 17 Euros, which is kind of a lot for what the place was. I had fun going, but I’m not sure I could recommend it.
The MAK, though, was fantastic. The only reason we even went there is because it was free on Saturdays. It’s a museum of design: a lot of industrial design, like chairs and desks and things, a lot of porcelain, some textiles and a whole wing of modern photography, film and sculpture art. We were there for 3 hours before it closed and it was the sort of place where you could visit every week and always get something new out ofย it. A lot of the short films and photography they showed were thought-provoking to the extent that I spent much of our time in that wing trying to wrap my head around some big ideas.
The other thing we did in Vienna that was a little out of character was go to a mass service at St. Stephen’s cathedral, in the middle of Vienna. We’d visited the church the day before and toured the catacombs beneath it and had read that there would be an organ and orchestral performance the next day at 9:30 am. When we got to the church, though, we found out that the performance was was part of mass. We decided to stay anyway and are glad we did. The music was fantastic. The musicians were professionals and it was far and away the best music I’ve ever heard in a church. The strangest thing about the service was that they never collected offering. I’ve never been to a church where they didn’t do that.
Anyway, we’re off to see more of Budapest. There’s castles and cathedrals and who knows what else. Ciao!
Tags: Austria, Budapest, Hungary, Travel, Vienna
Had a crazy feeling yesterday and I had to tell you bout it. Sorry if this gets long but I don’t have your email address (nor do I know if you check it… so here goes.
After keeping up with your travel notes, I just finished reading the post about Vienna. Describing how crisp, clean and decadent it was. Sounds like an amazng visual experience into the past. This is where it got wierd. After reading your post, I went about my business, doing what I do.. my routine if you will. I sit in my recliner in my Uncle’s basement and flip channels before dinner. (God bless the FAV button) I have all my channels like ABC-HD and other HD Channels (did I mention I still love my TV ๐ ) I even have PBS-HD. I really only watch it for the cooking stuff and some concerts that are on. So there I am, surfing from ESPN, FX, HGTV, MTV……Then for some reason I click on PBS-HD. Not 2 minutes after reading your post. GUESS WHAT!? They are doing a tour of Vienna in HD! They were going over (when I switched to it) the history of Habsburg rule. (BTW, the crazy Queen/Princess chick that they compare to Princess Diana was crazy!) Its going to sound wienrd but it gave me a sense of what you guy are seeing/experiencing. Just got the craziest feeling after reading your blog and watching the PBS program. For a second there I felt like I was travelling with you guys. One can only wish. ๐
Might seem dumb… but I thought it was freaky cool. So I had to tell ya.
thats cool, man–you probably saw more of Vienna than we did. We had to walk or take the Metro everywhere we wanted to go and you just got to sit and go for the ride. I love PBS!