Slow boat, no food
The adventures just keep coming! We had everything planned out perfectly for our journey to Phu Quoc Island in Vietnam. We would take the 12 hour bus to Phnom Penh on Saturday, spend one day then leave the next morning on the 7 a.m. bus for Kampot, which would put us there by 11. We’d then get a ride to the border, deal with immigration and be at the Ha Tien boat dock in plenty of time for the 3 p.m. boat – surely we’d be having drinks on the beach by 7!
As things go in countries where you’re a glowing white target for clever transport touts and unfortunately they are usually the only English-speakers, it didn’t quite happen that way. We got to Phnom Penh as planned and luckily the guesthouse that we tried had a room for us. We checked out a bar called the “Lone Star Saloon” just for kicks (nothing but a few Australian expats, some oldwest photos for decor and a menu of chili-dogs) then turned in fairly early. We spent the next day taking care of internet things, then were ready for our bus at 6:30a.m. on Monday.
The four hour bus ride ended up being six (I guess four hours is the dry season estimate) and we rolled in Kampot around 1:00. Being the only foreigners in a little town that only sees a slow trickle of tourists, we were absolutely assaulted by tuktuk/moto drivers before even stepping off of the bus, all of them waving guesthouse fliers and reading off the prices/amenities/tour opportunities, all at the same time. Poor Gabe gets the brunt of it, being the guy (ie “in charge”), but we are pretty good at dealing with these guys by now – smile,laugh and ignore them until you have your bags and are ready to discuss options.
They all claimed that there are no 3pm boats, only 9a.m., and then all started yelling their various offers for tuktuk/moto/share taxi transport the next morning. We both suspected that there was a boat (if we got on it, how could they earn guesthouse commission on us?) but it was already late and we decided that we’d stay and go in the morning. The guy who took us to our guesthouse promised to be back at 6:30 a.m. to take us the hour to the border.
It was a nice little town, quiet and mountainous, and we had a relaxing evening. The next morning (note:no breakfast) we piled into the tuk tuk for what turned out to be a two hour, bumpy, sloppy push through more incredibly horrendous roads the consistency of melted chocolate. We worried about the 9a.m. boat, but the guy was doing all he could. Eventually he stops on the side of the road and tells us that the tuktuk can’t go any further, we have to take motobikes through the border. This is a common thing, it’s something of a transport mafia, so we got off and had no choice but to agree to $5 apiece for the two moto drivers to take us.
We tell him that we’re going to Phu Quoc and he immediately tells us “oh, no boat today!” then quickly showed us a card advertising some boat in another town that apparently was going at noon. Natually, he’d be happy to drive us there for an extra$6! We said no thanks, just take us to the docks in Ha Tien. He didn’t push it and we were soon on our way and making our way down the long row of windows at the Vietnam border control, waiting until they’d spent enough time staring at our documents to make it seem as though it were something important -in reality, they weren’t really interested, and we were the only people in sight.
Vietnam had refreshingly paved roads and there was instant change from Cambodia. They took us to the docks in Ha Tien (we rode on an actual freeway…Cambodia does not have such a thing!) and then tried to convince us that there was no boat – but they could take us to one. We told them no thanks and paid, finally they left and were immediately replaced by a couple of other drivers. These guys also insisted that there was no boat today (it did look that way) but the older man said he knew ofa “family boat” that he could take us to for $3 – it was a friend of his and they’d wait for us. We asked how much the boat was, he said $10 – we shook our heads and he responded with my favorite phrase: “How much you want to pay?”
We decided to just go and get there, (note: no lunch) and 20 minutes later we found ourselves sitting at some low plastic tables with a Vietmanese family. Soon the first boat came – a low wooden boat which everyone piled onto, supposedly to take us to the “big boat.” Gabe and I smiled, thinking that at least we were staying off of the tourist trail! We had no idea…
Just as the sun was becoming unbearable, we pulled up beside a big wooden fishing boat piled with crates of produce, bags of rice and hundreds of live ducks. Everyone tossed their bags on board then climbed from our small boat up onto the big one, carefully balancing themselves on the ocean swells. There was a ladder to the top deck and we followed the others up. The deck was already quite full with an assortment of people – a few men, several young mothers with toddlers, one with an infant in a hammock and a few old ladies. They welcomed us in and we took off our shoes, scooting to the far end (the ceiling was barely four feet above the floor) – apparently this was going to be quite a four hour ride!
Four hours, naturally, turned into more than six. The ride became somewhat enjoyable after they strung up hammocks for us and a storm on the horizon dropped the temperature. At some point we pulled up to an anchored fishing boat where our guys traded cabbage and squid for some tanks of oil – I read, napped, watched the little kids and laughed at how far off the tourist trail we were! I stopped laughing around 2:00 when the boat engine slowly died and I watched some of the guys dropping an anchor.
Gabe and I had no clue what was going on – not one single english -speaker on the boat – but no one looked too concerned. We tried to ignore the fact that we hadn’t eaten since 5:00 the day before (note: no snacks) and did our best to figure out what was wrong.
We could see Phu Quoc from where we were, but it was still a good distance away and the storm brewing behind us made me a big uneasy – this boat was far from meeting any sort of safety standards! We floated for what seemed like hours (a few people made calls on their cellphones) until we finally noticed the men draining oil from the motorbikes onboard into a big bucket. Suddenly it all made sense…but there’s no way that could be enough for a boat!
It was enough to eventually get us going again, although we started to idle again about halfway to the harbor. Luckily a small boat had been called and after being waved down, a kid anchored beside us and handed over yet more oil. This was finally enough to get us to the harbor, just in time for 5 p.m. rain.
We ignored the drivers, intent on eating before dealing with finding a room, but we quickly realized that we had no dong and there were no ATMs at the harbor. We reluctantly jumped onto two more motorbikes who took us to get some cash before dropping us at “their” guesthouse – the rooms were fine, are on the ocean and we quickly agreed to stay. Finally, 24 hours after our last meal, we got to eat some of the best seafood I’ve had since Phuket!
We had our first bowl of Pho in Vietnam for breakfast this morning and, once again, it all seems to be worth the journey (although maybe we’ll play tourist on the way back)!
Tags: 1
allisonrae
October 29th, 2008 at 12:00 am
[…] Original post by allisonrae […]
October 29th, 2008 at 10:27 am
Tell me you got pictures of that boat ride; I’ve got to see those ducks! This blog has me cracking up.
Love you!
October 29th, 2008 at 7:56 pm
I have enjoyed traveling via the both of you.
What lifetime experiences and memories you have. It has really been a pleasure reading your thoughts and viewing your magnificent photos. I am so happy you have had this opportunity. Gabe I think you have really found a great partner. I guess I will have to give my spot in the “Amazing Race” to Allison. The two of you make a great team.
Seriously you should really try to do the race, you would be perfect and what a great monetary award at the end for doing something you already love.
I can not tell you how envious I have been of your adventure, although I know I probably could no longer do all you have done, so I am greatful for sharing it via your blogs. YES, I am jealous–but dry and warm! I definetly think you should consider combinig your great writings and fabulous photos in a book–it would be wonderful. Just something to think about.
I know your mom would have loved all of this, she is following you.
Can not wait for more of your adventure and I am looking forward to hearing more in person sometime in the future.
Take care, be safe(the Mom part)——
Love you,
Tana
October 29th, 2008 at 8:51 pm
How in the world will you both EVER be able to be “tourists”? Your experiences are so far beyond the realm of anything ordinary! And….no one would have been able to get me on a boat with ducks!
November 18th, 2008 at 9:40 am
What an experience
Now we dont naVE TO WORY
you can take care of yourself.
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