BootsnAll Travel Network



Vacation wonderland awaits in Machu Picchu

February 1st, 2008

 
Contra Costa Times
Article Launched: 02/01/2008 03:11:26 AM PST

            Forget Costa Rica, South America’s Galapagos Islands and Peru’s Machu Picchu seems to be this year’s hot spots for Lamorinda travelers.  Craig and Margaret Isaacs, along with Campolindo’s Maureen & Eva, spent eight days at the Eco Hotel Finch Baywith an all inclusive package.  Margaret described their trip as, “luxury day camp for adults.  Each day was led by a naturalist, with excursions, snorkeling and lunch.  After an adventurous day, you returned to the hotel for five star dining.” 

Margaret noted that although Ecuador does accept US currency, they are reluctant to take worn or torn money because their banks won’t give them full value for “damaged” dollars.  Bring crisp $1, $5 and $10 for easy transactions.  

“For being so close to Peru, Machu Picchu was a wonder of the world that we didn’t want to miss,” added Margaret.  “We flew into Cusco to tour the area before taking the train to Aquas Calientes at Machu Picchu’s base.”  The Lafayette family cautioned to allow enough time to adjust to the extreme altitude before exploring.  Their final stop was Lake Titicaca where the highlight was visiting the floating islands of Uros.

 

Orinda’s Michael Chinn and Mari Kay Breazeale began their trek in the Amazon rain forest and ended in the Galapagos.  They wanted to visit the rain forest prior to the end of November when the rainy season begins.  Canadian-based Tours of Exploration put together their 15 day adventure.

“We went to an ecology research lodge, Posada de Amazonas, for five days,” remembers Breazeale.  The lodge is run jointly by the local indigenous community and a Peruvian rain forest expedition company. The intent of the lodge is to keep tourism going, educate the visitor and respect the local culture.  Part of the reason for the poverty in the area is that tourism is one of the only revenues.  In order for the community to succeed, it is vital to keep the people in the rural areas employed with joint ventures like the eco-lodge on the Tambopata River.

Next, the couple flew to Cusco and visited Machu Picchu before landing in Quito, the capital of Ecuador.  There they boarded the M.S. Anahi, a 90-foot catamaran, housing eight rooms and 13 travelers. For the next five days they explored the Galapagos Islands with two zodiac equipped guides taking them to see the animals each day.

“The Galapagos wildlife is totally unafraid of humans,” marveled Breazeale.  “The snorkeling was wonderful with turtles, sharks, stingrays and lots of wonderful birds to watch.”

Unfortunately, the Galapagos is on the “World Heritage in Danger” list.  With fewer than 4% of UNESCO’s sites on this list, it could lose World Heritage designation and the accompanying tourists.  To preserve the fragile ecosystem, each tourist must be accompanied by a guide and pay $100 to enter the park. 

Campolindo Biology Teacher Amanda Renno will be leading a group of students to the Galapagos June 23 for nine days.  There are several spaces available.

Closer to home, my husband and I celebrated my birthday at Napa’s Blackbird Inn.  This was our fourth B&B adventure with the Four Sisters family of inns.  We dined at Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc in Yountville.  If you are looking for an affordable alternative to dinner at Keller’s French Laundry this is the place.  Call 707.944.2259 to hear the $48 nightly fix price menu. 

In other wine country news, the Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza is joining with Cyrus Restaurant to offer an epicurean indulgence package until April 30.  The $340 per couple package, offered Sunday through Thursday nights, includes a king room and five-course dinner for two.  Visit the Four Sisters Inns for more information.                                                                                             

                                         

                   

         

    

  

 

 

 

 

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Spanish experience was truly fit for a …pilgrim

December 28th, 2007

 

Contra Costa Times

No one snoozed in the pews when visiting Santiago City’s church service.  “It was theatrical,” marveled Lafayette’s Marcia Linn.  “There were four monks harnessed in a basket that allowed them to work a pulley system to propel an incense burner filled with hot coals fifty feet into the air.  Every day we saw hundreds of people arriving as pilgrims to attend the service and take communion in every possible language.  Everyone hugged the statue of St. James.”
 

Linn stayed at northern Spain’s five star Parador Santiago de Compostela, considered to be the oldest hotel in the world.  The plumbing has been upgraded since its transformation from a Royal Hospital in 1499, where it sheltered numerous pilgrims. 
 

El Camino de Santiago de Compostela or “Way of St. James” path begins in many European locales including Le Puy, France, a UNESCO World Heritage site.  The journey is marked with scallop shells along the 326 mile route.  The shell, found along the shores of Galicia, serves as a metaphor for the pilgrims.  As the waves of the ocean wash the shells on the shore, God’s hand guides the pilgrims to Santiago.
 

The cuisine of the area offers Spanish style seafood with fresh, local ingredients and wines.  Don’t miss the Galacian almond cakes, “polvorones” cookies or apple and caramel cream “filloas” pancakes.
 

While today’s pilgrims might carry Palm Pilots, a recent survey by Forrester Research found that nine percent fewer people booked travel online this year than in 2005.  Information junkies may roam the web, but travel agents still provide value in taking the stress out of vacation planning.


 

The government of Bhutan, situated between India and Tibet, requires guided assistance when traveling in their country.  Guide Tenpa Chophel spoke recently at REI Concord about Bhutan’s high value, low impact tourism policy launched in 1974.  “Visiting Bhutan is not easy,” notes Chophel.  “Visitors must spend $200 per night minimum, with 30% of that fee returning to the government for development.  By charging a tariff, it limits visitors and preserves our culture, heritage and traditions.”  Low impact translates to less garbage and allows the trekking routes to remain pristine.
 

Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon, is located along the southern slopes of the Himalaya mountain range.  In this isolated local, the Buddhist culture remains untouched by the outside world.  In 18,000 square miles of jungle and Himalayas, there are more than 165 animal species.  It is one of the least densely populated countries in the world.  For further information on a Chomolhari Trek visit reiadventures.com.
 

As we close the travel books on 2007, I’d like to share some trips and trends that I discovered while attending the Luxury Travel Expo in Las Vegas.  Author Pamela Danziger, “Let Them Eat Cake – Marketing Luxury to the Masses” notes, “old luxury is about a thing, while new luxury is about an experience.” 
 

Is a Mexican experience on your travel agenda? Cancun’s Ritz-Carlton is offering wine and tequila tasting and Chef’s Table sessions in their new culinary center.  Perhaps you are worried about Europe’s weak exchange?  Your dollar will stretch farther in South Africa.  On my wish list to visit; the Singita Game Reservesor the Royal Malewane in Kruger National Park. Are you looking to give back to a community while on vacation? Voluntourism is on the rise with tax-deductible programs in place to the Peruvian Amazon jungle community of Yantalo.  In closing, not only were Actors Owen Wilson and Woody Harrelson recently spotted in Peru; several Lamorinda residents are off to ring in the New Year in Machu Picchu.  Have a Pisco Sour for me!

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Around the world with a mother and daughter

December 22nd, 2007

Espani Fountain Zaragoza, Spain 

 Nancy Brown, left, and her mother, Janet Mooers, make a stop in Zaragoza, Spain.

Contra Costa Times

THE TRAVELERS: Lafayette mom and consultant Nancy Brown, age 40-plus; and her mother, Janet Mooers, former Moraga resident and international traveler, age 80-plus.

     

THE TREK IN A SEC: This mother-daughter duo was Barcelona-bound. Janet Mooers, a recent widow, wanted to see a few more sights before she retired her passport. Daughter Nancy was excited but hadn’t traveled with her mother since her high school days.

BEST ADVICE FOR TRAVELING WITH MULTIPLE GENERATIONS: Be patient when traveling with someone who hasn’t flown internationally since Sept. 11. Make sure passports are current. If you are sharing a room, try to fit in some alone time during your travels. Check in with your travel partner regarding the pace of the trip. Is she feeling rushed or tired, but doesn’t want to hold the other back?

COOLEST SIGHTS: Nancy’s highlight was Pamplona and the Ernest Hemingway sights: “I’d just read ‘The Sun Also Rises’ so Pamplona and San Sebastian were brought to life for me.” Janet’s highlight was the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain.

MOST MEMORABLE DINING EXPERIENCE: The pair had walked Barcelona’s La Rambla Boulevard down to the harbor in search of some seafood. Janet wanted a shrimp salad. At this particular restaurant you had to purchase the shrimp farmer’s market style. Due to the language barrier, a platter of cooked shrimp was brought to the table with their heads and tails attached. Eventually salad followed. The women spent the entire lunch prepping the shrimp for the salad. “It was frustrating at the moment, but quite hilarious looking back on our lunch,” remembers Nancy.

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Travelers enjoy a touch of Midas

November 30th, 2007

Contra Costa Times

Forty five miles northeast of Winnemucca and eight miles from the Nevada ghost town of Midas, is a place Cory Brown calls, “Man land.”  At 5,000 to 7,300 feet elevations, Jim Bowers is familiar with this desolate, high desert country as he hunted this area in his youth.  He noted that his childhood memories are triggered by his sense of smell and that being back in the area awoke those memories. 

“It’s one of the few places you can hear yourself think,” states Bowers.  “It’s one of the few places on earth you can do what you want to do without being bothered by anyone. There’s never a moment in this area where we live where you can say that.” 

 

Stanley middle schoolers Evan Brown and Grant Sivesind joined their fathers and two other Lafayette friends in October for a long weekend of Chukar hunting.  Chukars are from the partridge family and these little birds are fast.  And for the animal rights activists reading this column, the hunters only brought back one bird.

“The camp experience was extremely rustic,” reflects first-time hunter Jim Straw. “During the night you’d wake up to strong winds blowing, coyotes howling and owls.”  He noted that the area was very remote with steep mountains and lava rock climbing.

 “We were pretty much out in the middle of no where,” commented Grant Sivesind.  “We saw mule deer and prong horn antelope.”

“This was a difficult hunt because there are no trails and the terrain is really steep.  But I was with friends, my dog and guns.  What’s not to like?” laughs Evan Brown.

 
 There was nothing desolate or remote about the town of Passignano, Italy on Lake Trasimneo according to Leah Bullen.  The resort town of 3,000 has a disco that held 5,000 people including Acalanes graduates Lauren and Rachel and sophomore Ryan.   The Lafayette family flew into Rome and then traveled by train.  “We did day trips around the region to Rome, Tuscany, Florence and Corneto.  We went to Assisi, home of Saint Francis, San Francisco’s sister city. We visited Umbria, the center of the boot; north of Rome and south of Florence,” explains Bullen. Another town she liked was Perugia, a college town, two train stops over from their home base. 

This was the kid’s first time to Italy.  “You can’t go to Italy without going into Catholicism.  Every little town is built around the church,” notes Bullen.  “The food was terrific and the wine was a bargain!”  During their three week stay they learned Italian cooking from their landlord.  The stone building they stayed in was built in the year 1,000 and was nice and cool.  “It was charming,” adds Bullen. 

 
 Next month I’ll be in Las Vegas learning about Ecotourism, luxury hotel trends and what’s hot in Peru during the Luxury Travel Expo at Mandalay Bay.  I look forward to attending this conference as a sola traveler.  I can dine by myself, attend a show I select and am only accountable to myself.  I recently met Beth Whitman who has made a career out of traveling solo.  Beth has ridden a motorcycle through Central America and is currently Couch Surfing her way through California promoting her book, “Wanderlust and Lipstick.”

If you are venturing out on your own, check out World Hum’s website which offers an e-mail roundtable with four accomplished female travelers discussing the ups and downs of hitting the road alone.  I would love to hear from Lamorinda solo travelers.  In fact, if you tell me about your solo travel you’ll be entered into a drawing for Whitman’s book.

 You can read more of Nancy Brown’s travels at http:blogs/bootsnall.com/what+a+trip/. Send news of your adventures to NancyBrownConsulting@comcast.net.                      

         

        

             

        

             

        

             

        

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

                                                                                                

                                                                                                                             

                                                                                                                                                                              

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

                                                                                                                                            

                    

  

 

 

 

 

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Rain in Spain falls mainly on San Sebastian

October 26th, 2007
 
While “the rain in Spain falls mainly in the plain” according to Eliza Doolittle (Audrey Hepburn) in the 1964 film “My Fair Lady,” the rain in Spain that our tour group encountered fell mainly in the resort town of San Sebastian. As Hemingway reflected in “The Sun Also Rises”: “The trees seem as though their leaves were never quite dry.”
The lush hillsides were dotted with sheep, which meant Basque cheese to me. The Basque have a language, which is in no way similar to Spanish. In my quest for Idiazabal, the local cheese, I was directed to Aitor Lasa. Our Hemingway speaker for the Pamplona trip, Gabriella Ranelli De Aguirre, an ex-patriot, was also a culinary director. She assured me the shop would vacuum-seal my cheese for transport home.  
Orinda’s Tom and Carol Mapes were with me on this 10-day tour of Spain.
Carol, a member of the Council on Architecture, an Oakland Museum guild, described our journey as an architectural tour. “I really enjoyed the Codorniu winery and Casa Amatiller, designed by Josep Puig I Cadafalch,” reflects Mapes. She also admired Barcelona’s Antoni Gaudi for his forward thinking in terms of Parc Guell’s water filtration system and the use of recycled tiles at Sagrada Familia and Casa Mila. We both agreed that he was a global artist ahead of his time. Other highlights were Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim in Bilbao and Zaragoza’s Espanity fountain. Zaragoza will host the 2008 Universal Exposition based on the theme of water.
            

Are you a procrastinator when it comes to gift giving? Why not be ahead of the curve this year and take off to the German “Holiday Markets of the Rhine and Main Rivers” for the outdoor Christmas markets featuring local crafts and regional cuisine. Marjory DeRoeck of Lafayette’s All About Image said, “It was a great way to get all my Christmas shopping done.”

She left for Munich Nov. 30 from SFO, returning Dec. 6 with Vantage, on a river cruise ship, visiting markets in Würzburg, Rothenburg, Bamberg, Wertheim and Frankfurt. “We also were escorted on wonderful side trips to see such historic sights as the Heidelberg Castle, Gutenberg Museum and Cathedral, Rudesheim’s Musikkabinett, with beautiful old music boxes and player pianos, and Cologne’s Gothic Cathedral and Shrine of the 3 Magi,” said DeRoeck.

Orinda resident and local artist Ann Testa was drawn to the trip because she had lived in Germany in the past. “The markets are much more commercial now,” notes Testa. “Yet there are still a lot of handmade crafts.” She also remembered that they were entirely fortunate with the weather. Among the things she liked the most, “there were a lot of young Germans sitting at the food stand drinking beer and Gluwein, a type of mulled wine, and eating bratwurst. They were chatting and enjoying themselves. It was a big place to gather. No matter where I travel, I always pick up new ideas. At the Lafayette Gallery, I’ll probably have some Christmas Angels this year.”

Speaking of angels, I met Paola Gianturco at a Book Passage Travel Writers Conference this summer. The Bay Area author of “Women Who Light the Dark,” has a slew of gift giving suggestions under the “shop wisely” section of her Web site. The “shop for change” store offers products by talented craftswomen who live in areas of conflict. How about a gift that furthers peace? The Jerusalem Candle of Hope is made by women of Israel and Palestine. The candle is available through the Amber Chand Collection.

 

 

 

 

Nancy Brown grew up in Moraga and lives in Lafayette with her husband and children. Send news of your adventures to NancyBrownConsulting@comcast.net.

 



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Pamplona Church Bells

October 5th, 2007

 

 It was noon in Pamplona’s Plaza de Castillo.  A cacaphony of bells exploded from every direction as if competiting for a mother’s attention.  “Look at me.  My bells chime loudly.”  In fact, the calamity was almost comical. 

Our Tour Guide, Francisco Glaria of Novotur Guides, had not only run with the bulls, (don’t tell his mother) he had also survived the running of the bulls.  He shared a story with us about his grandmother who did not own a clock.  It seems that when she traveled from Pamplona, she was confused as to the time of day because the bells did not toll as in her reliable hometown.

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Mutiny in Bilbao

October 4th, 2007

 Guggenheim

In the former industrial city of 354,000 residents, Bilbao has transformed itself from the once ugly ogre to the dashing young prince of the Vizcaya Province. Once surrounded by cranes, container ships and sludge, the rejuvinated city straddled by the Nervion River, now offers public parks and gardens, fashionable shops and the magnificant titanium coated Guggenheim museum.

And while the sun shined on us with all its glory in this usually fog shrouded city, a mutiny was in the making. Our group of 44 intrepid travelers, ranging from Philly to New York, Texas to California and Oregon, was seated in a reputable restaurant and served a fine bowl of steaming fish and potato soup.

Our next course of fish kebobs was met with quizzical glances between diners, followed by wrinkled noses, as the strong stench of fish wafted into our nostrils. A few adventurous souls picked at the nearly raw salmon and white fish tucked in between red and green bell peppers.

We felt like ugly Americans, yet most of our crew left our plates untouched. We had offended our lovely, Italian Tour Director Josephine.

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San Sebastian; A culinary quest

October 3rd, 2007

 

 I’ve never been asked to be a mule before. For you law-abiding citizens, a mule is a person who carries drugs for someone. In this case, I was asked to be a cheese mule. This was not your run-of-the-mill, Whole Foods, Manchego cheese mind you. I was on a quest for Idiazabal, the Basque word for sheep’s milk cheese.

A friend from the San Francisco Bay area with Basque roots salivates when I share my plans of 10 days in Barcelona and San Sebastian, Spain. “Oh the cheese,” she moans. “You have to bring back the cheese.”

And so my quest began. I was also told to taste the Iberian ham. My Alaskan friend, Kirsten Dixon, a culinary genius and owner of Within The Wild Adventure Company, www.withinthewild.com, had recommended that I taste the salt-cured Iberian ham. These acorn fed, free-range piggies are as pampered as the Kobe beef cattle. At roughly $160 per pound, I was keeping my bacon in my pocketbook.

Before our departure to Pamplona, we were lectured on Ernest Hemingway and the significance of “The Sun Also Rises” as it releates to the region of Pamplona and San Sebastian. Our personable lecturer, Gabriella Ranelli De Aguirre, www.tenedortours.com, an ex-patriot and culinary guide steered me to Aitor Lasa, www.aitorlasa.com, on Calle Aldamar. “I take this cheese to the states with me all the time,” she shares. “They’ll vaccum seal it for you.”

So in between layers of clothes, I dutifully tuck in my shrink wrapped wedges of cheese; my nuggets of gold. I’m bound for my home state of California where our advertisements boast that happy cows make happy cheese. I am one happy camper!

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Zaragoza to host Universal Exposition in 2008

October 2nd, 2007

 

The 2008 banner hangs proudly from the administration building announcing the Zaragoza Universal Exposition,  www.Zaragozaexpo2008.es/ taking place June 14 until September 14 of next year, based on the theme of water and sustainable development.

The 17th century, Moorish-influenced La Seo Cathedral looms above the Goya statue, Zaragoza’s home town hero.  During our October visit the Espani Fountain flows like a virtual wall of water, looking more like a literal representation of global warming with its ice caps receeding into the melting water. Our guide tells us the fountain is the artists interpretation of Central and South America uniting. And true to Spanish custom, the fountain’s water ceases to flow in the early afternoon for its daily siesta.

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Gaudi; a man ahead of his time

September 30th, 2007

 

Spain (1852-1926) In his young life, Antoni Gaudi was the last kid picked on the team.  Not much is known of Gaudi’s childhood except that he suffered from arthritis from the age of six.  Yet Gaudi turned this disability into a blessing for those of us who enjoy his works.  While he wasn’t able to run and play with the other children, he turned to nature for his sense of inspiration. 

 In 1873 Gaudi left his home in Reus bound for Barcelona and the Provincial School of Architecture.  As his father was a boiler maker or La Calderera, Gaudi was familiar with iron work and displayed his unusual sculptural designs in Casa Mila.  He was a global artist, interior designer and furniture maker.  He used recycled and left over tiles in his works that give a Hansel and Gretel feel to his buildings in the Parc Guell

Tragically, this forward thinker and planner of wide city streets had his life cut short when he was run over by a street car in Barcelona.

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