Spontaneous bellydancing
I went to Makan last night to see a group which performs traditional Egyptian music from the Nile Delta. This was the third time I’ve been there and, hands down, it’s my favorite spot in Cairo for music.
The music last night included two drums, a type of flute, a two-stringed instrument made out of half a coconut and played with a bow, and a double-piped instrument which the musician played using “the technique of circular breathing to produce an uninterrupted sound.” I don’t really understand what circular breathing means, but the sounds he produced were unwavering and sustained for minutes – he never appeared tired or about to pass out.
The lead singer was a striking, older woman with high cheekbones and a lazy eye. She planted herself in the middle of the room and although she leaned on an extra microphone stand, using it as a cane, she exuded strength through her husky voice and unwavering gaze. She completely commanded the band with her authoritarian nods and improvised vocals. I couldn’t keep my eyes off of her.
Except when a woman from the audience was moved to jump into the singer’s circle and begin to bellydance.
With a blue sash tied low around her hips, she shimmied with precision, paradoxically shaking her hips, thighs, knees, waist, and shoulders, while maintaining complete control of each movement. The flute player entered into the circle with her and picked up the pace. The double-pipe player in the rear of the room giggled and averted his eyes from her suggestive hips which shook and shook then abruptly stopped in a pose, drawing your eyes sharply to her hips to see what move she’d do next. The audience clapped and yelled without any self-conciousness.
I walked home from the Metro that night by myself. I rarely walk by myself at night and, as I immediately noticed, there weren’t too many Egyptian women who were walking the streets at 11:30pm by themselves either. Mostly men on the streets and the few women I saw were accompanied by men. As I walked up the steps to the sidewalk, I was aware that eyes were on me. I walked past a young man sitting on the hood of a car and as I passed by I heard in a soft voice, “I want to marry you.”
Tags: Egypt, Tag Index
admin
January 19th, 2007 at 4:29 am
1. you should learn how to jump into the center of a room and wiggle yer belly in a hypnotic manner.nrnr2. i waaaannnnt to marrryyy you. CREEPY.
January 19th, 2007 at 5:08 am
Now don’t you wish I were still there as your decoy? Hahaha.