Pokhara – Chillax
As the bus wound up and out of the Kathmandu valley, we were afforded glimpses of what drew countless travellers here in the past, believing it to be Shangri-La. Nestled amongst the hills of the valley, the temples and houses must have seemed a miracle after the hard trek overland. Although things have changed these days, the population and pollution have metamorphasised it into an overwhelming metropolis, occasionally these insights help to show the appeal that still remains, if you look for it.
As for us in the 21st century, we spent most of the journey half-mesmerised, half-peeking through fingers as the road took us through the hills and followed the course of the river towards the western city of Pokhara. I managed to miss a lot of it, as my trusty travel sickness tablets knocked me out for much of the duration – I fell asleep with my arm at the open window though, ensuring a very classy farmer’s tan for my first couple of days here.
After the mayhem of Kathmandu, it came as sweet relief to arrive in this city, which seemed much more peaceful and relaxing. Pokhara is perched at the edge of Lake Phewa Tal, and at the other side of the lake, facing the city, is the mighty Annapurna Range of mountains. I can’t imagine a more blissful setting to finally start relaxing, and the collective breath that Andy and I have been holding the last few weeks, through packing up, moving out, selling belongings, feeling ill, and saying goodbye, seemed to be released.
We checked in to the calm courtyard of the Yeti Guesthouse, went out for a wander round the town and sat down for a lemon soda overlooking the lake, and unanimously and immediately decided to stay for as long as it took to feel ready to get back in the saddle of backpacking again.
For the first couple of days, we were content just to mooch and window shop – one of my regrets from my last big trip was that I didn’t buy even more mementoes, so that’s not going to pass me buy this time. We’re currently eyeing up a gorgeous silk bedspread, and the biggest decision of the day is what colour to buy it in… like I said, completely relaxed.
We also used the facilities available at one of the midrange (ie far too upmarket for us to afford to stay in) hotels here, as it had a swimming pool that, for 2 pounds a day, we could have full use of. We were content to do that, lounging in the baking sun, reading, sipping on lemon sodas, and generally getting a feel for the ‘real’ Nepal! The weather has been far, far hotter than I anticipated (probably indicating my lack of research – I think I saw the word ‘monsoon’ and imagined something like Manchester in November). The rain does come most days, but generally just in the evening, and even then it’s a real relief from the overpowering heat and humidity.
Despite these energy-zapping conditions, after a couple of days we were ready for a leg-stretch and noted that there was a trek nearby at the other side of the lake uphill to the World Peace Pagoda. Erected by Japanese Buddhists, the gleaming white pagoda watches over the city and serves as a constant guardian and reminder of the need for peace, especially in a land with a troubled history such as Nepal. After hiring a boatman to take us to the start of the trek, we were off. Well, nearly – first we had to negotiate a small stream. Amazingly, I didn’t fall in and nor did Andy, so, filled with purpose, we strode to the start of the trail.
We were gasping for breath within a few minutes – the heat and humitidity (combined no doubt with our general levels of unfitness) were serious enemies and we came close several times to giving up. Thankfully, we’re both stubborn devils, so were determined to push on up to the top. It was absolutely worth it, as the pagoda, and the views of the city from the top, were stunning, as was the sense of achievement. After 20 or so minutes at the top, we had to head back down to meet our boatman at the pre-arranged time. Now, my excuse is that the ground was slippy and that we were in a rush to come back down, but I guess it will come as no surprise to anyone that I took a tumble on the way back down. Thankfully it was on a smooth section and not on the rocks, but I went hard onto the knee that I’d already fallen on a couple of nights before… oh, I forgot to mention that one? That I ripped my almost-brand-new-worn-only-twice trousers? And embarassed myself infront of a group of concerned Nepalis? Yeah, that happened.
Still, Andy was the only witness to my tumble and he picked me up and patched me back together as he has to do far too often, and soon we were heading back over Phewa Tal, exhausted, soaked through with sweat/perspiration/glow depending on how polite you are, and headed straight back to the Yeti Guesthouse for a cold shower and an even colder Everest Beer.
Tags: Nepal
Suzanne
humitidity ?
surely humitididitty
as in humitididitty dum ditty doo
I think your travel blog needs to be renamed:
“There’s Such A Lot Of The World To Fall Over”
I just hope you packed a big box of plasters. 🙂
Awww no! You do like to fall over.
You do need to make it to Sydney in one piece!
Thinking of you both
love
C
x
Hi Suze and Andy, nice to hear from both of you–you certainly know how to take in the details of places you visit–must be a gift Suze!
I am sorry to hear of your poor knee–hope you dont hurt yourself again, i am feeling it for you ! Hope Andy kissed it better !!LOL
Bye for now take care–God bless you both love Angela xx
Pokhara sounds wonderful and glad to hear you survived your first trek even though you did take a tumble (reminds me of when we climbed Scafell). Hope the rest of your treks are fall-free. I think it might be a good idea if Andy kept hold of the camera – talking of which I hope we soon get to see your photographic evidence.
Love and miss you lots.
Mum
Hi Suze: Just catching up with your blog again…… hope you’re not feeling
the effects of the fall on your knee – you and your mum make a pair – your
mum was always spraining an ankle and grandad K was the same – must be
a weakness on the Kennedy side, thinking of you lots. Love to you and Andy
Auntie Rosemary x
Hiya Suzie,
It’s Gabi again. Oh no! Poor you having a fall. I hope you are alright though at least you have Andy there with you hehehe x x x
Love Gabi x x x x x
Hey Suze,
Just caught up. Love it. Love it. Love it. Keep it coming….I’ve not been this jealous since…..hmmmm….the last time you made me this jealous with your wonderful travel blogs.
Lots of love and God Bless.
Andy E. xx
Hi Suze trying my best to keep up with the blogs and pictures… havent got as much free time as i did on your previous travels!!!! Sounds fab and am glad you are relaxing and enjoying the new countries you are seeing. Still missing you both like mad and will be saving those pennies to get over to visit xxxx