Kep – Trade-off
OK, so where was I? Ah yes I remember – to quote myself (and frankly, who better to quote?):
“In a few minutes I’m going to set off for Kep, about 12 miles further east along the coast, and then I’m going to try and stay on Rabbit Island for a night or two.” So, did it happen? I think you already know the answer…
As I was writing, tip-tapping away, the rain started falling, falling, falling, until it was the usual deluge. I refused to be daunted, though, and splashed my way back to the Blissful guesthouse, Sri Lanka palm-tree brolly aloft over my head, my trousers growing ever more sodden by the minute. By the time I got back there I might as well have just jumped in a – well, not a swimming pool, they weren’t that wet, but maybe a child’s paddling pool. Undeterred, I thanked my lucky stars that I’d had the foresight to buy a backpack with a waterproof cover. This unfolds from a little zipped pocket at the back, and covers the whole thing, so when it’s on, I look like a silver-backed turtle. Which is kind of cool. I could look like a silver-backed terrapin, and everyone knows what geeks they are.
So that was my backpack sorted. Now for my other bags – I have a small rucksack that I call my daybag, although this is just to disguise the fact that it’s where I carry the stuff (already too much stuff) that won’t fit in my rucksack and then, because I don’t like carrying such a big bag round with me all day, I bought another small handbag in Beijing. It’s LeSportSac, which I have never heard of before but apparently is known in the USofA, so I’m guessing it’s another fake. Still, it’s brown and pink and blue and very pretty and, on a good day, it will fit inside my day bag for moving around. This was not a good day.
So, eyeing the rain that still insisted on swamping Kampot, I purchased a delightful blancmange pink waterproof poncho thingy, that was voluminous enough to go over me AND my bags. I think it was my foxiest moment ever. And off we set on a moto. Add in the factor that it stopped raining as soon as we were out of Kampot, and the sun resulted in me glowing for England underneath my non-breathable poncho – I tell you, if Prada had seen me then, they’d have called off the search for a new muse.
It’s a 20 minute drive from Kampot to Kep, though some tiny little villages where my attire drew a few laughs. Kep itself, when we finally arrived, is tiny – just a cluster of houses together, really. It has a population of about 4,000, and these hardy souls have hung on though the desertion of Kep – the rest is little more than a ghost town, stung badly by the ravages of war.
My moto took me up to the jetty from where the boats for Rabbit Island departed. Unfortunately, though, because of the bad weather, no boats were running at the moment. I was told to come back in a couple of hours, and sped off again on the moto, glumly eyeing the grey sky and building winds. I went to a beach-side hut (really, that’s all it was – just a mat on the floor for sitting on), and had a delicious meal of crab with local Kampot pepper – claimed by many to be the best pepper in the world and, let me say, I’m not going to dispute that. Plus, how cool will it be when I’m in the pub and the conversation takes that inevitable turn towards condiments: “Of course,” I will say loudly, “I refuse to use anything other than Kampot pepper. It’s the best, you know, and I cannot compromise the quality of my food for inferior peppers”. Man, I’m going to be Little Miss Popular when I get back!
After I’d whiled away two hours, I headed back up to the jetty, and was told that there was still no luck. Maybe, she said, after 5.30, but I knew enough about me and jinxed journeys to know when to call it a day – the sea looked pretty rough, and the boats were basic rowing boats. Didn’t fancy losing all my stuff (or me!) to the deep. Giving up on the idea, and realising that, by that time I’d missed the second bus of the day to Phnom Penh, I decided to stay the night in Kep.
And wow, if ever the old saying about every cloud having a silver lining was true, this was it. I found myself at the Veranda resort and, while at $20 it was over my budget, was it ever worth it. I figured I was prepared to spend $15 on the boat trip, then $5 a night is the going rate over on Rabbit Island – this was merely redirecting the funds. And also, breakfast was included, so I planned to fill my boots. The place was gorgeous, just gorgeous. And this was by my pre-travelling standards, not those depths I’ve sunk to over the last few months. The bungalow was completely isolated, and had a perfect view down to the sea – I’d have sworn I was the only soul around for miles. The decoration was lovely, there were definitely no bugs, and the bathroom was something to write home about – or at least blog about! The wall was head-hight, but the roof was higher, and set on a slope, so there were a few feet round the top of the wall which were completely exposed to the elements. Taking a (hot water! Oh my!) shower while it showered outside was fabulous, and I loved it.
The peace was simultaneously energising and relaxing. It was so utterly dark that I just hung in my hammock for hours, reading with a small light, feeling for the first time in weeks wonderfully, fabulously, alone – and by that, I mean the very opposite of lonely.
Not surprisingly, I woke up with the biggest smile on my face and, reaching for my ipod, put on the most apt song I could think of – “Ain’t got no (I got life)” by Nina Simone, and danced around my room to it, just celebrating – I was in a gorgeous place, my leg is definitely on the mend and so I’m fully bipedal again, the memories of people and places are getting so full I’m going to have to arrange some kind of storage facility for them. Life is wonderful.
And that, to misquote the genius Ms Simone, is something that nobody can take away.
Tags: Cambodia, Travel
Suzanne
It’s always nice to read your blog, but especially so when you end on a happy note. Further more there was an extra something in this entry to put a smile on my face in a brotherly/sisterly kind of way… for I have just recently discovered Nina Simone and I just know had you been here, it’d be one of those things we’d sit and chat enthusiastically about. Never mind, we can save it until you’re home. Anywho, the way I discovered her was through one of my favourite films – The Thomas Crown Affair. (Unfortunately the remake as I’m still to see the original.) One of the final scenes in the gallery plays out to “Sinnerman”. I had always liked it but never known who it was by and every time I saw the film I’d always hum along and think to myself “I must find out who sings that.” Her greatest hits have recently been released and it features in the advert along with lots of others. So I’m currently expanding my knowledge and by the time you’re back we’ll be able to have an in depth discussion on the finer points of Ms Simone’s work. :0)
love,
Michael
PS I’ve heard Rabbit Island is over hyped anyway and not a patch on Hare Peninsula.
Blancmange pink turtle ( not terrapin!!) eating crab, I’m really needing a picture please Suze!! x x
Ain’t got no home, ain’t got no shoes
Ain’t got no money, ain’t got no class
Ain’t got no skirts, ain’t got no sweater
Ain’t got no perfume, ain’t got no beer
Ain’t got no man
Ain’t got no mother, ain’t got no culture
Ain’t got no friends, ain’t got no schooling
Ain’t got no love, ain’t got no name
Ain’t got no ticket, ain’t got no token
Ain’t got no God
What about God?
Why am I alive anyway?
Yeah, what about God?
Nobody can take away
I got my hair, I got my head
I got my brains, I got my ears
I got my eyes, I got my nose
I got my mouth, I got my smile
I got my tongue, I got my chin
I got my neck, I got my boobs
I got my heart, I got my soul
I got my back, I got my sex
I got my arms, I got my hands
I got my fingers, Got my legs
I got my feet, I got my toes
I got my liver, Got my blood
I’ve got life , I’ve got my freedom
I’ve got the life
And I’m gonna keep it
I’ve got the life
And nobody’s gonna take it away
I’ve got the life
As you may have guessed, your blog is like reading a wonderful novel and what better than a “happy ending” (not that we want this to be the end!)
I too have done the same as you at times – danced around my office or kitchen at some good news or other so could relate to your feeling.
Thank you for bringing a BIG smile to my face. Happy for you Suzanned.
Love, Lin
Hi Suze, i have just commented on your blog
Kep-Trade-off.and i have just reply, but put in the wrong code,hence i have had to type out again
loved this reading,and glad that you do not feel lonely, as you said it is totally different
feeling alone, i know as i have had to get used to being on my own.Sometimes it is nice to just stop and enjoy your own company[i have taken up reading and it works like magic for relaxing aaaand beating
loneliness]
keep well ,and i’ll be in touch again
love &prayers from Ange xxxd864c
Hi Suzie: Don’t you always make the best out of what could be a disappointing situation (i.e. not being able to get over to Rabbit Island!) I could just see you losing yourself in your book for hours on end. I can’t believe how you’ve found the time for all these blogs! but we’re all enjoying them so keep it up!! So glad to hear your leg is almost better – missing you lots – All my love
God Bless and take good care – Auntie Rosemary x
Hi Suze, it appears that not only every cloud has a silver lining but some backpacks have one too!
Great blog.
Stay happy and safe.
Love – always
Mum