Gulangyu – Island Fever
I was particularly excited about coming to the seaside resort of Xiamen, because it’s known as Amoy in the West, and I’m a big fan of soy sauce. Also, it’s in the province of Fuijian, which is one of the least-visited areas by western tourists, surprising really, as it’s a)lovely, and b)right on the main route from Shanghai to Hong Kong. I decided to use it as a breath of fresh air, both figuratively and literally, between these two major city hubs.
I’d been told that there was a lovely islet (too small to be called an island, how cute is that?) just off the coast of Xiamen, called Gulangyu, so I decided to stay there. And what a good decision it was. *High fives self*. Gulangyu, up until the second world war, used to be Xiamen’s foreign concession. Historically, because of its place on the coast, Xiamen has been one of the major ports for both imports and exports from China, so it drew a lot of foreign people here. Wise people indeed. It’s now a completely peaceful haven, the perfect antidote to mainland China, as no cars or motorbikes are allowed there, so you have to carry your own luggage *high fives backpack*. In addition to this, the narrow, twisting streets are like stepping into old time London, Paris, or Rome – certainly more Europe than China.
As I’d just survived an epic 27 hour train journey from Shanghai to Xiamen (although, truthfully, I’d spent most of it under a duvet, eating crisps, reading, and drinking tea – throw in June Sarpong and a guilty ‘homework’ feeling and you’d have my average Sunday at home), my first afternoon was spent checking into my (damp) hotel room – meant to be a treat! Bah humbug – and having a mooch around.
On the second day, I’d gone across to the mainland to book my train ticket to Hong Kong (the strange thing about travelling about is that as soon as you get to one place, you have to think about moving on – just buying a ticket and jumping on a train is either impossible or not recommended here). I got talking to some Polish/German guys (dual nationality, before I’m accused of not knowing the difference), Lukas, Adrian, and Artur – who was a knight in shining armour when I didn’t have enough cash to buy my ticket, he gave me a loan depite knowing me for all of 5 seconds. I must have an honest face. Or a threatening one. They were staying on the island as well so we went over together, somehow managing to get on the wrong ferry and ending up on the wrong side of the island. Most islands – say, Australia, this would be a tad problematic. Not on Gulangyu, though – even with backpacks, we did the walk to the other side in about 10 minutes. In heavy rain. The guys giot settled into their hostel while I took a nap (it had been a very trying morning!), and we met up later at their hostel for mucho piju (the Chinese for beer. Actually, the word for ‘beer’ is nearly always the first one you learn in any new country. Or maybe that’s just me). We were invited to eat with two Chinese guys also staying at the hostel who had cooked up the biggest pile of seafood you’ve ever seen in your life, and boy was it delicious. Loads of garlic going on, but mmmmmmmmmm.
They also invited us to go to a free concert with them later that night in Gulangyu concert hall (which looked disconcertingly like the Bridgewater Hall) – the island has a long musical tradition, and this evening’s concert mixed traditional Chinese styles with traditional French. I liked it, although Artur seemed to be listening with his eyes shut for most of it. Back tot he thostel for more piju, and the hostel lady actually turfed me out at 12 because she wanted to lock the door – it’s that kind of island. Getting back to my hotel was fun when I realised that was locked as well. I went from a couple of polite knocks and “helloooo”s, to full-on hammering and shouting “nee-how” (Chinese for hello). It worked though, and a sleepy guy with a cig in his mouth came and let me in.
The next day I proved just how small the island was, as I walked all over it. In flip-flops (the rain was depressingly continuous). I got a multi-site ticket and went to a couple of parks, containing statues of dignitaries I have never heard of, a gorgeous piano museum, a little cable car ride, and a great aviary (although the disadvantage of visiting an aviary during a rainstorm is, every time you feel something hit your head you pray to heaven above it’s a raindrop). It was lovely, and fabulous to be somewhere so small and so self-contained.
I met up with the guys again later and went with them over to the mainland, where they were catching the train to Hong Kong. I still had another day here, so came back and went to my favourite cafe – I had a favourite cafe already – where the gorgeous Ivy shouted out a greeting, and made me my favourite drink – I had a favourite drink already – of plum green tea. What a peaceful way to end the day – sipping sweet, fruity green tea, watching the rain fall, and chatting to a new friend. Island fever, indeed.
Tags: China, Travel
Suzanne
Suze, As I’m told you look like me, I’ll go for the honest face rather than the threatening one!
Miss you and love you lots
Mum