Beijing – Early in the morning deep blue sea
When I was studying for my English Literature A Level, one of the poets on the syllabus was Coleridge. I was never a fan – he seemed to be a poor man’s Wordsworth (who was his mate and who, I think, he ripped off something chronic). However, one thing that sticks in my mind was the big, long introduction to his big, long poem ‘Kubla Khan’. The jist was that he took some opium, fell into an opium-induced haze, and dreamt this fantastic poem. Just at its zenith though, the postman came and woke him up (Royal Mail were annoying even in those days) and he forgot the poem. He just remembered how good it was, and wrote ‘Kubla Khan’ as a second best version. Until now, I always thought that was a cop out, but today I understand a bit how he felt.
Internet access here in China is… sporadic, to say the least. I have been able to access hotmail for about 5 minutes, total, since I got here. And I thought this site was ok, until I wrote a great big long blog entry, hit ‘post’, and watched it evaporate into the ether. I know I’m pulling a Coleridge on you here, but man that was a good entry. And now I don’t have the mental energy to recreate a second best version, the fact that it wouldn’t, couldn’t ever be as good as the first would have me sobbing into my dumplings tonight.
So, here is a bullet listed summary (I can hear the sighs of relief from over here)
– I bought the kitchest, tackiest umbrella in Sri Lanka – with palm trees and blue skies on the inside – and, sadly, I have had much reason to use it here in Beijing.
– Went to the Summer Palace with Leah and Jason from Canada, it was gorgeous and beautiful, serene and lovely, even though it was meant to be flipping summer now and instead it rained. Still, I got to take my fab umbrella.
– Beijing taxi drivers have all, apparently, arrived in Beijing yesterday and have no idea where anything is, even when shown a map of their own city
– Went to the Silk Street market as advised by my mother and displayed the sterling haggling skills I have honed on the mean streets of India. As well as a gorgeous silk jacket for mum (winging its way to her as I type, hopefully, and not in the hands of a government operative), I got an ace top for me, the best pair of fake jeans (7FAMK, jeans fans) I have seen, and a little denim skirt handmade by Victoria Beckham
– Despite the fact that it is rather chilly, I wore my new top and little skirt to go out in, because 1) I’m very brown at the moment 2) I’m on my holidays, and 3) I’m very brown at the moment.
– I am very brown at the moment
– My favourite conversation was with Jason, when he said “I knew there was something very un-English about you – you’re too brown to be English”.
– Did I mention I’m very brown at the moment?
– Beijing’s bars rock (in every way – including the mullets). I want to open a Beijing Bar when I get back home, with live Chinese music, neon lights, and waitresses in tennis dresses and Barbarella boots
– I walked the Great Wall (at Mutiyanu), which was lots of fun. I didn’t do the toughest section because I climbed Adam’s Peak in Sri Lanka. Ahem.
– Favourite sight at the Great Wall: an American Lady, dressed in pink trousers and a shirt that SHOUTED, asking “Well, there are no numbers on the towers. How will I know when I get to 10? How will I know where to get down? I don’t want to get lost. I can’t believe there are no numbers signposted on the towers, this is ridiculous”. My suggestion that she counted the towers just met with a blank stare.
– There are a huge number of French people in Beijing. Dunno why.
– Things I have eaten: Too many dumplings to count, chicken kebabs (the sign for the kebab is now the only Chinese character I can recognise), noodles, Beijing Roast Duck (aka pure cholesterol on a plate), tofu brains, centipede
– Yes, I really ate centipede. It did not taste good. But you never know until you try, eh?
– I have been given my Chinese name, which I will insist on using at all times. It is ‘Early In The Morning Deep Blue Sea’. Kind of poetic, I think.
– The thing is, many Chinese characters sound the same. So I have an alternative name, which sounds the same as my first, which is ‘Dirty Canteen’. I will not insist on using that at all times.
OK, think that’s the highlights of my time in Beijing. I could have stayed there for ages, it’s an amazing city, a pure blend of the old and new China, with its feet firmly in the 21st century. I’m really looking forward to the Olympics in 2008, from what I’ve seen they’ll put on a spectacular show. So I bid a sad goodbye to Beijing and set off on the night train to Pingyao to see what the rest of this vast country has to offer.
Tags: China, Travel
Suzanne
Susie its great to read all your escapades in China when u are talking about silk street i can just see your mum and i haggling on all the stalls and them saying lovely lady all the time hoping that we would buy.WHAT A WONDERFUL OPPURTUNITY for u to see all these countries something that you will never forget.at least you got further on your bike than your mum she had a puncture and couldnt go anywhere love irene
I have decided that “Early in the morning deep blue sea” is just too much of a mouthful so think I’ll use “5.00am North Sea” as an alternative.
So, 5.am North Sea, it sounds like you’re having just the most wonderful time. Just a shame you’ve not managed to get brown yet. Hey ho!!Keep yourself safe, love you lots,
Sarah (aka “7pm English Channel”)
In Old Beijing did our dear Suze
A travelogue describe :
Where Alf, the window cleaner, used
To wring his chamois and sing the blues
Down in his sockless shoes.
So twice five thousand words she wrote
and every literary source she’d quote:
And there were words you’d never heard before,
And some you’ll never hear again;
But we the hungry beg for more,
Than bullet points from one to ten
You should regularly save your work to avoid losing it in the event of a power cut or system failure.
Also I’d like more detail on this centipede you ate. Was it a whole one, or just a bit of one. Was it crunchy on the outside and soft in the middle? Did it taste like chicken?
Love your new name.