Aitutaki – Stranger in Paradise
After a week on Rarotonga doing blissfully little, I was ready to turn the activity level even further down, if it was at all possible. I decided to head over to the smaller island of Aitutaki. Rarotonga is the most-visited island in the Cook group, and Aitutaki is the second – but this is very much a relative term. It’s much, much smaller and much, much quieter.
It’s a 40 minute plane ride south of Rarotonga, and even this amused me, now that I’m such an international traveller and all. First I had to put my bag on a set of kitchen scales to see if it was overweight – it wasn’t, thank goodness, as I only really took a few bikinis and some books – then there were no security questions, no security screening, nothing. I made myself laugh when I asked the check-in girl what time my 1.30pm flight would be boarding. She looked at me like I was insane, and answered, “Erm, about 1.25”.
As with elsewhere in the South Pacific, we were greeted, at Aitutaki International Airport (an open-air shed) by a singer. I tell you, it ALWAYS puts you in a good mood, and I for one would campaign hard to see, say Oasis, playing in Arrivals in Manchester Airport. Or maybe Macca in Liverpool John Lennon Airport (Above Us Only Sky), now that he’s fallen on hard times? Think of the lawyer’s bills, Paul, and turn up with your guitar.
Within about 5 minutes of landing in Aitutaki, it was easy to see what the biggest problem would be. Mosquitoes. Relentless. Even smothered in 80% DEET, the little darlings were still feasting on me and, with an outbreak of Dengue Fever there, it didn’t exactly put my mind at rest. I spent a lot of time imagining I was coming down with a crippling headache. The rest of the time I spent counting my bites, putting antihistamine on them, and then for a double whammy, zapping them with my clicker thing that looks like it will give you an electric shock and/or waken Frankenstein’s monster. Hours of fun.
And, after that, I’m afraid, it really was a case of “and then I sunbathed and read and did nothing much else”. I hired a bike, which I used for my daily pootles around the island, to the shop and to various beaches. I read a book every day. I kept missing whales in the ocean, apparently, by about 5 minutes.
Oh, I did find a crab in the loo! To this day I still have no idea how it got there, but it highly amused me and a Dutch couple for a good while. Especially when we told the cleaner and she told us angrily, “Oh, just put the lid down and leave it alone”. Hmmm.
One day, I went on a Lagoon Cruise. It was stunningly beautiful. The water was turquoise, unlike anything else I have ever seen. Absolutely crystal clear; even at the deepest point, we could see all the way to the bottom of the ocean. I couldn’t bring myself to go snorkelling, but it was stunning to look at. We stopped at a number of tiny deserted islands, mounds of dazzlingly white sand marooned in the middle of the turquoise. It was just amazing.
I also got incredibly excited when we went past the two islands where the T4 series “Shipwrecked” is being filmed. Being Sunday morning hangover tv of the lowest mental denominator, I am obviously a huge fan. When it’s on tv, though, they make the islands look as if they’re in the middle of nowhere, rather than in a busy lagoon with tourist boats plowing their way past every few minutes, waving to the participants. It’s a beautiful spot, though, and I would be tempted to apply myself, were it not for the high eejit factor amongst the people who I’d have to share paradise with.
It was while I was on Aitutaki that I heard about Fr Xavier. Obviously this would have been devastating news to take in anywhere in the world, but I felt especially isolated. I had no phone, very little internet access (that, when it was working, was expensive and slow), and no way of contacting people who I wanted to be with and speak to and be comforted by. For a while – and this feeling continued after I returned to Rarotonga – I was considering cutting my time short in the Cook Islands. There were people in New Zealand I could run to and be with. The Cooks were a lonely place right then, and I think more than any other point in my travels it showed me that, as much as I’m very happy with my own company and indeed need my own company on occasion to recharge my batteries, there are times in life when to be with others is essential.
I decided not to go back (and in hindsight now, I’m glad I decided this), but the rest of my time in Aitutaki was subdued. That said, I’m glad I went, and I’m glad I have the photos. It is, without doubt, the most beautiful place I have ever seen in my life, amazingly so. I would definitely, definitely recommend a trip. Just make sure you pack the mozzie repellant.
Tags: Cook Islands, Travel
Suzanne
Suze, I guess for as long as you live you’ll always associate Aitutaki with the time you heard the tragic news of the death of your dear friend Fr. Xavier. I’m sure you made the right decision to stay, despite the need to have friends around.
Miss and love you lots
Mum
Hey Suze,
Stunning photo’s – and you’re looking mighty fine I must say!
Apropos Shipwrecked it’s not just the Eejit factor that would stop you applying to Shipwrecked. You’re also too old. As am I.
Finding this out (only people under 25 APPARENTLY!) was both painful and a relief. Now I know that I can’t apply because of my age and not because I don’t have a posh accent, a six pack or a personality that makes others want to drive nails into their own eyes. (well at least not everyone!)
Much love. God bless.
EA.
x
But EA, I’m concerned by the fact that you know the age limit. Does this mean that you actually tried to apply?
S x
Suzie,
I’m so sorry to hear about your friend Fr Xavier, and it must have been very hard to deal with finding out when you were so alone. All my love and prayers are with you. Sarah xxx
We were so sad to hear your news and I felt particularly helplessto offer you some help and a hug. I only hope it has not caused you to remember paradise for the wrong reasons.
And as for Shipwrecked having an upper age limit – don’t they know there’s legislation in place to stop this wrongful ageist discrimination? I’ve filled in your application for the next season on your behalf.
Mitch
Amazing pics and as EA says you really look great, its amazing how great a tan make you look and feel!! Roll on the summer I say. Glad all is going well and it has been great catching you online so mch for little girly chats. x x
Hi Suze, have not heard fro you for a while, and have just enjoyed this blog.You look fantastic on the photo, and that sand is exactly how you described it. And i thought Mullaloo beach was the best in the world.
Sorry about Fr XavierRIP Clare showed me some photos Hope you will keep well, love from Angela xx