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Well Worth It

Sunday, April 23rd, 2006

Oh these blog entries are getting harder and harder to keep up.  Think slow internet connections, noisy and smokey 95+ degree internet cafes in different languages and you might get a taste of our situation.  Nonetheless, some great travels to report on.

Bangkok –
Right now we are in Bangkok, it’s the hottest time of the year and the temperatures have been in the upper 90’s all week Steve and I have been walking around in a daze which is bad in a country where you don’t speak the language. This place is so confusing. While I’m not a big fan of the BKK in general we spent the morning  exploring the grand palace and the temple which houses the emerald Buddha. I’ve
never seen anything so incredible! The buildings are all covered in gold and colored glass. The Buddha is actually entirely carved out of a single piece of jade. They don’t know who our when it was carved but it was first discovered in 1450 when some one realized that it was only covered in plaster not made out of it. It was amazing you walk
into this temple after taking your shoes off and high up on this thrown is the Buddha in front of him is an alter covered in lotus flowers and everyone sits on the floor in reverence. The monks sit and pray on the sides of the room. Although we’re obviously not Buddhist it was hard not to be caught by the spirituality of the place.

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Other than that BKK is a crazy place it is definitely a shoppers haven (Christine it is calling you) but I think what is the most interesting are all of the food stalls on the street. Lining the streets people cook full meals over gas stoves. The food is so interesting super cheap and generally better than the restaurants though it certainly feels like you are risking your health every time you eat there. I’ve been opting for the deep fried options in the hope that the hot oil kills off all the unsavories. Though the fruit stands are hard to resist.

In another day we head to the island of Ko Chang near the Cambodia border for our volunteer work.  Looking forward to what experiences await us.

Bali, Indonesia-
What an experience from very beginning to end!  Baggage scanners break in Sydney airport leaving many bags behind and put us several hours late into Bali.  Though luckily our bags make it onto the plane, the delay causes us to miss our connecting flight out over to Lompoc and the Gili’s.  Tensions were high as we failed again to get on a standby flight the following day.  In an attempt to cut our losses we quit trying to fly out that day, formally book a ticket for the following morning and head to the nicest closest hotel possible, the Kuta Seaview.  An excellent decision as the $45/nt oceanside resort is fantastic and immediately boost our spirits.  Bali is very pretty and surprisingly clean (smoke and incense excluded).  It was our first time in an Islamic country (88% Muslim) and the people for the most part are extraordinarily friendly making the terrorism in Bali particularly unfortunate.  Scooters zoom through the narrow Bali streets, and though the place thrives on tourism, Bali still has a remarkable sense of culture.  Memorable were the musical bells and picture perfect surfing waves at Kuta Beach.

Gili Trawangan, Indonesia-
The trip to the Gili’s was no easy task.  Cab-Flight-Cab-Public Boat-Cidomo (a horse drawn carriage…of sorts).  Our difficult to obtain $30 GT Air flight to Lomboc included a super sketchy 40 passenger retired military craft with problematic landing gear.  Later this airline would report ‘technical difficulties’ requiring us to find alternate means for returning to Bali.  But we made it and the trip to Gili Trawangan was well worth the effort.

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Snorkeling –
While staying at Dream Village we met a very nice Dutch couple – Lynn and Martin. We decided to charter a boat with them fro a private snorkeling trip around the three Gili islands.The boat was an ancient fishing boat that had been converted into a glass bottom boat. The captain was great – very relaxed and friendly. The first snorkel site we arrived at we jumped in and found tons of stinging jellyfish which our captain assured us were no dangerous but we decided to get back into the boat as quickly as possible anyway and head to the next site. Although we enjoyed the company the snorkeling was depressing – it was like seeing a waste land. It turns out that over the last decade the entire reef has been decimated by dynamite fishing. Although there were plenty of fish they were left to swim above the rubble. It looked awful! The only coral we say were a few soft corals nothing extensive. Lynn who had been to the Gili Islands in 1997 said it was a 100% changed. Nevertheless we did still see a number of sea turtles which was great.  Diving with the turtles and clown fish a few days later was especially memmorable.

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Gili T was a great small town with in 24 hrs of being there is was hard to go anywhere without seeing some one you knew. We must have run into Joe from Sulawesi close to a dozen times after we ventured across the island one night with him on a failed attempt to see the turtles laying eggs. There are no motorized vehicles on the island and the time of day was only clocked by the 5 daily prayers blasted over broken loudspeakers at the mosque (nice the first day but pretty painful at 5am the rest of the week). I suppose Gili T is as close to paradise as you can get. The beaches were incredible everything was really affordable aka $30 a night for
your own bungalow, less than $10 for a very nice meal, and the people were incredibly nice. It is hard to think of a better place to burrow in and relax for a couple of days.

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Sydney –
After checking into the sparkling clean Sydney central YHA and cleaning up we went to see a ballet performed by the Bangarra Dance Troop and the Australian National Ballet. It was a combo of ballet and aboriginal dance set mainly to classical music. The dance was incredible but what really stood out was the aboriginal song master (singer) as well as the final act when they poured water and white paint on the dancers. Very unusual. I can say I never thought I would
were Chacos to the ballet before. The Opera house was spectacular at night and during intermission we walked out on to the balcony and had an incredible view of the harbor.

Sydney Aquarium – we got to see a platypus! They are actually a lot smaller that I thought, which was a surprise in comparison to all of the other animals in Australia which e larger than expected. The other interesting part of the aquarium were the 3 giant tanks in the harbor. The great barrier reef tank was really interesting  with clown fish
tangs and a type of leopard shark. That separate shark tank was also interesting as it took you through tubes at the bottom of the tank so that the sharks swam over you. Some of the sharks were up to 2 meters in length.

Rocks – The historic part of Sydney was the original site of the convict colony. This was perhaps the most beautiful part of Sydney as it was filled with rambling cobblestone streets. Not really a layout for a city I would have chosen it I were living with thousands of convicts but oh well. This was certainly a very sad part of history. It is hard to realize that many of the people were sent to Australia for petty crimes that would ordinarily have been short sentences, but
being sent to Australia was essentially a life sentence no matter what the crime.

Last days NZ, First days OZ

Saturday, April 8th, 2006
G’day from OZ. We made it across the Tasman sea the other day and are now enjoying the warmer weather in Sydney.
Our final days in NZ may have just been some of the best few days yet. Steve successfully bungee’d off the Kawarua River which was very cool. They have a great facility there with huge live monitors and viewing platforms. Bungee jumping was actually much gentler that I thought it would be but all the spinning and bouncing was amazingly disorienting. Cross that off the list in any case.
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We drove out late to the Milford Sound to catch an early cruise before all the tour buses arrive. There was nil for accommodations there but plenty of parking lot which we made use of. First thing, we hopped on a huge ship with only 5 other passengers and 6 crew. We had entire levels to ourselves and unlimited drip coffee which is quite hard to find as everyone drinks espresso, well ‘flat whites’ to be specific. The Milford Sound is actually a Fiord for those taking notes since it was created from glaciers. Though it hadn’t rained recently, there were still several spectacular waterfalls to see, one of which our captain (appropriately named “Fiord“) took us directly underneath the waterfall drenching us with water. It’s amazing the power of those waterfalls when your directly underneath it! The cruise was beautiful and set us in a great mood for tramping the final section of the Routeburn Trek. Two hours of hiking up from the Great Divide put us at the summit where we had panoramic views of glaciers and the Fiordland. Another hour in and we were at the last hut stop for trampers going the other directions. Though hyped tremendously, it was easy to understand while they call this one of the “Great Treks”.
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We made a quick sprint through Queenstown to watch UCLA decimate LSU and then continued to Dunedin to see the rare Yellow-Eyed Penguin of which there are less than 4,000 left. A private conservationist created a safe haven for these cute guys and also built in a trench system to monitor them up close without bothering them. It was quite a cool little setup but Jenny was disappointed because our guide couldn’t answer most of her questions. From there, we drove up the coast back to Christchurch to return the Space Ship and watch UCLA lose. On our last day we hopped on a bus to Akaroa, a small picture-esq French village with Hector dolphins. It was nice to finally slow down a bit and roam the small town. Also took another marine life boat trip to see more dolphins, birds and penguins in the natural habitat.
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Only a few days in Sydney and we’ve already roamed the Blue Mountains which actually are really quite blue. Supposedly this is because of the Eucalyptus oil that the trees emit. Also went to the Featherdale zoo to play with Kangaroos, Wallabies, Dingo’s, the top 10 most deadly snakes snakes, and a million types of crazy birds. Steve got Emu to eat of out of his hands! We stayed with Kenny’s cousins in a suburb called Penrith for 2 days which was quite nice. A few home cooked meals never tasted so good! They were excellent tour guides and we much enjoyed our time with them. Now we’re in Manly Beach trying to chill out. Had quite an awful sleeping experience in what has to be the dirtiest place either of us have ever stayed in. The hostel scene out here ain’t quite what it was in NZ. Nice day out there though, about 20C and tomorrow Jenny is especially excited about taking me to the ballet at the Opera House. Will report later how it goes.

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PICT2434.JPGEven though Sydney has far exceeded our expectations, we are excited about flying out to Indonesia on Wed. We will head straight out the Gili Islands, a remote group of three islands off the coast of Lompoc which have over 3500 species of stuff in the water. Compare that to the Great Barrier Reef which has only 1500 and the Red Sea with 600 and you’ll see why it’s worth the trek out there. A bit nervous about the travelling in Indo. but all should be well.Stay tuned for pics. It’s proven quite difficult to upload large numbers of photos from Internet cafe’s.

Wish everyone our best.

S & J