A taste of Syrian hospitality in Aleppo
There are over 2 million people who live in Aleppo, Syria (just south of the border with Turkey) but you would never think this unless someone told you. Aleppo was our last stop in Syria and we were rewarded with an incredible ancient yet still bustling souq and a special evening of traditional Syrian hospitality.
We arrived in Aleppo with one of the American friends we had been with since Palmyra and were surprised to find that most hotel rooms were booked. This became less surprising after we finally found a room and then wandered the pretty and relaxed downtown and old city area. It was incredible to be in such a large city, especially in the Middle East, where people and cars and everything else moved around in a slow and happy pace that seemed more like being in Tuscany than being in Syria. The souq was as big as any other bazar we had seen but much much more traditional. There were very few parts that seemed modernized and even many of the customs seemed like they had been in place for hundreds of years – like when an old man ripped two fighting kids apart by their ears in a way that would have made Mike Tyson jealous.
But the absolute highlight of our time in Aleppo and one of the highlights of our entire Middle East sojourn was an invitation we received to have dinner with relatives of my mom’s friend. First they welcomed us into their elegant large apartment to get to know each other over some tea, and then they walked us to a gorgeous old home in the old city area that was now a top restaurant for a lavish and entertaining dinner. The father told us about how he lived in such a house when he was a child and played throughout the never-ending winding passages and alleys of the old city. He ordered several courses of delicious traditional food including a kind of sausage made with intestines that was surprisingly tasty. We lost track of time with all the good food and conversation and only as we were leaving did we realize that we had been there for a few hours and it was well past midnight. The next day the youngest daughter showed us around their neighborhood and talked about what it was like being a Christian living in Syria and the challenge of both wanting a career and a more modern western life and also wanting to stay close to home and enjoy the strong feeling of family enabled by more traditional life choices. Though we only spent a short time with them it truly felt like we were treated as long-time close friends; it was Syrian hospitality at it’s absolute finest.
We spent our final evening in Syria checking out several beautiful old churches from various religions in the Aleppo old city, enjoying one final elegant and very affordable dinner, and drinking raki on a rooftop restaurant discussing our experiences. We left on a bus for Turkey the next morning sad to be leaving behind a less modernized and less westernized land for what would surely be a change of scenary and culture, but we felt good knowing that we had had an excellent time in Syria and appreciative of the so many kind and generous people we were able to get to know. Now when anyone asks I tell them that the country they MUST visit if planning a Middle East trip is Syria.
For more Aleppo photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/shanlovesphotos/sets/72157594148642073/
-Anthony
Tags: Middle East, Syria, Travel
Shan