March 11: New Orleans Garden District
I had continental breakfast on the hotel patio. The pool had leaves in it, so I wouldn’t be swimming today. I asked the desk clerk where to get an all-day transit pass ($5) for the streetcar and bus. She pointed me to a place near the Jackson Brewery, but I couldn’t find it. This affirmed my decision that I should walk to the Garden District, even though it was about two miles away. I walked down Decatur, which became Magazine Street, until I saw the WWII museum and a statue which turned out to be a memorial to Robert E. Lee! It’s easy to forget that Louisiana was a slave state and fought on the confederate side of the Civil War.
From Lee Circle, I continued on St. Charles. I was starting to get hungry, and saw a restaurant that I had seen advertised on TV as the best BBQ in New Orleans, Voodoo BBQ. I saw hospital and construction workers going in there, and figured it would be good. It was. In fact, it was better than what I had in North Carolina. The pork was better cooked and there was mac and cheese as well as sweet tea (sweetened ice tea). Yum!
I walked on St. Charles until 1st Street, where I turned left one block to start the walking tour outlined by my AAA guidebook. I was led past a school for girls, Anne Rice’s former home, and homes with a wide range of architecture styles. I even saw a row of homes dubbed a “folly” because they didn’t sell. The most shocking one was the house where Jefferson Davis died. I saw a cemetery with its above ground graves, but my guidebook said cemeteries are havens for criminals so I shouldn’t walk through them alone. Instead I walked in, snapped some pictures, and walked right back out.
As I was standing in front of Colonel Short’s Villa, I felt something at my feet. It was a cat that kept rubbing up against my legs. I’d never run into such a friendly cat, and it didn’t any tags. I’ve named it the chair of the Garden District Feline Hospitality Committee.
From there I walked to the Rink, a skating rink converted into shops. I browsed the fabulous Garden District Book shop, and took an early coffee break. My last stop on the tour was the Women’s Opera Guild, which was still recovering from Katrina damage.
I took the trolley ($1.25 one way) back to Canal Street, and walked down towards the Natchez. I thought I would spend the afternoon cruising on the Mississippi and listening to the story of the city. On the way, I saw the shops at Canal Place. I wandered around the high end shops up to the third floor, where I found a movie theater showing Slumdog Millionaire for only $5.50. I rarely go to movies, hadn’t seen this one, and was thinking being in a movie theater would be better for me than on a boat since I hadn’t worn sunscreen and already had a good tourist’s burn going.
I had an hour and a half before the movie started. I wrote postcards, had a cookie, and still had some time left. I decided to browse Saks Fifth Avenue for fun, looking at ridiculously overpriced clothes I’d never afford let alone buy. Next thing I knew, I was trying on a dress that was 40% off and in which I didn’t feel fat. One that I could use for teaching and presentations this summer. Then I guiltily carried that bag into the theater to watch a movie about kids who are living in poverty. Oy!
After the movie, I walked down Decatur Street again. This time I ended up at the Crescent City Brewhouse. Their weissbier was really good, as was their gumbo (seafood stew) and baked oysters. While I ate, the oyster shucker watched basketball—the Hornets at the Wizards. I hadn’t realized the Hornets had left Charlotte for New Orleans. I also hadn’t realized the coach of the Hornets was Byron Scott, one of the great players from the 87-88 championship L.A. Lakers team. Obviously, I don’t follow sports as much as I did then, but seeing Byron brought it all back. And he looks so cute with a moustache!
Tags: BBQ, book shop, Garden District, New Orleans, U.S.
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