Phitsanulok and Sukhothai
150 years before ayuthaya became the capital of Siam/Thailand, sukhothai was the centre of the thai civilization. Again the bloody Burmese and their conquering dispositions put paid to the town forcing the thais to move further south. I figured it was definitely worth a shout on the way up to chiang mai. 60 miles to the east of sukhothai is the city of Phitsanulok which given that it is on the main bangkok to chiang mai rail and roadway made it the ideal place to base my visit to the old city.
The train ride from the south took 6 hours. It was a day train to the seats were laid out with their backs to the window, the carriage was pretty full and I was the only johnny foreigner in the carriage so all eyes were on me. I don’t mind it to be honest, its different to the attention you get in india where most people have at least some grasp of english. Here you can tell that the people are just itching to ask about you and probably more to tell about themselves but that insurmountable barrier lies at least for the time being between us. The train ride was on culinary level, a blast. Given the layout of the seats, it made for the perfect gangway for the seemingly endless parade of food hawkers. They sold fruit, drinks, meats, breads, sweets and some stuff I couldn’t even begin to describe. One lady who was selling fish decided to take a break in our carriage, right across from me her wares stank to the heavens. Shocking smell, twas bad enough for even the locals to tell her to be on her way.
The food I got myself was pretty tasty, now I am guessing at what it was but it was something like 10 beef sausage balls coated in cabbage with soy sauce and full red chillies to give it that extra little purchase. I sat with great satisfaction the chili sweats for quite some time. You get a good idea of the landscape that makes up central thailand when you travel like this, by day! Something alot of people miss out on when they take the night bus or train up to chang mai. But that said they don’t really miss alot. The land is incredibly flat and and seemingly endless array of rice fields. Its well drained but apart from that there is very little to draw your attention away from the culinary circus.
I eventually arrived into Phitsanulok train station, figured the best place to stay would be the youth hostel. So the routine of getting the rickshaw to drop you out there commences again, this time though my adversaries weren’t mere mortal men I was used to dealing with, these were the most fearsome, the most intimidating of all creatures. Women!! I tried every trick I have picked up to get a better price but they wouldn’t budge. Eventually I conceded and payed the price to be dropped out to the hostel.
The hostel was quite a building, it seems to have been a proper old barn house bar at some stage. Everything was made out of wood and the steps everywhere were uneven and potentially ankle destroying. It had a proper ramshackle, thrown together, patched up vibe about it. The overgrown ivy or Thai equivalent gave it the feeling that it hadn’t been touched in years. I was met my wan, a guy who used to work there and was calling over on a ceile to his old work mates. The lonely planet had described it as the main backpackers haunt but it was missing backpackers, I was the only person to stay there for two nights. When Wan told me I was the only person there I think he detected my disappointment as I was looking forward to some company. He immediately offered to take me out on the town that night, get something to eat and grab a few beers. I was taken aback by such generosity, it was the first time a proper local has been this open.
So into town we went in his ac car (first time in an ac car since, ooooh November). We got something to eat at the towns night market, overlooking the large river that passes through the town. The food was top notch. Afterwards we took a walk around the local markets, snacked away before finding another open air bar overlooking the river where we took in the views and the Liverpool fulham match. Wan is also a liverpool fan so we had plenty to talk about…
The next morning I jumped on the bus out to sukhothai. I rented a bike and took it around the old city. The first thing that distinguishes it from ayuthaya is that it stands totally separately from the new town. Apart from various restoration projects it remains untouched. Surrounded by an old wall the town is pretty big and takes some time to make your way around. The main buildings of interest are religious in theme and separated mostly by little woods and some larger ponds. It is proper picnic territory, a really beautiful setting. The shade of the trees give much respite from the sun.
After a couple of hours I made my way back to Phitsanulok where I met up with Wan again. This time we went for a thai massage. Now banish any lurid images that spring to mind, this parlour was in the basement car park of the local shopping mall. Hardly on a par to the seedy backstreet places you hear about in the nations capital. The massage itself was okay, twas nice but certainly it was no revelation. I took more amusement from the interaction with the masseurs who worked there. Not sure if they get many Irish lads there. They all had a go a massaging my calves (very strong sir) and they found that my hands were very soft. Hardly the most flattering attribute for a grown man descended from the aran islands.
We went for a beer afterwards and we had a very good conversation where I learnt a good deal about what its like to live in town in central thailand. They are very proud of their town and rightfully so, I had a fantastic time in a town that is really beautiful, has a buzzing night life, markets, restaurants and history to booth. Wan was at a loss to explain why no one visits here, people preferring to bypass in a semi slumber on the night time buses up to chiang mai.
I took my own bus to chiang mai the next day – I am really glad I took this little detour.
Adios,
Phil
Tags: Phitsanulok, Sukhothai, thailand
Phil Gill
So where are you now? Still Chiang mai? I’m staying at BMP (the main one, apparently there’s too, mine has the swimming pool). Here until Friday afternoon and then back to Bangkok and on to the south. If you’re still in the area, gimme a shout.
hi,phil.
it was so nice to know that u wrote abot this town and thank a million as well for promotion.
have a nice trip……wan