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Halong Bay

Thursday, December 14th, 2006

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from journal:

Once you enter Halong Bay the entire scheme of civilization slips far back to your distant memory. You become one with the past and present, from the first sailors to the rumble of your shiny new tourist ferry. Yes, it seems we all find peace under limestone peaks, but there are a drunk few who care not for local customs or respect.

He had been drinking since noon, and his conversation towards me was too silly in such a beautiful place. I thought he was French.

When the boat docked to refuel, an adventurous bunch of us dove into the water from the third floor deck of our boat. Locals with rowboats full of fruit, beer and candy rowed up next to us, pleading with us to buy something. They were arms-length from the boat.

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Our Frenchman, who I later learned was a Scot, jumped off the boat and landed conspicuously close to the ladies and their boats. Her clothes, and some of her food became wet. I have never seen a man scurry up a rickety old ladder faster. He did it on purpose. There were two boats, and the lady closest took a plank from the floor of her boat and threw it at the guy.

The ladies began yelling profanities in Vietnamese, and when I had it translated by my friend he told me they were threatening to stab him. Within a few minutes the ladies relented and paddled away. No sales, wetter but not richer. Nothing happened to the guy, but our whole boat felt embarassed that a foreigner had done something so ridiculous. The guy was embarassed and spent the rest my time in his room.

I’m back in Hanoi now, planning on descending to the south tonight, another night train. Halong bay was very gorgeous, and here are a few pictures:

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My friend Hung contemplating the beauty of the bay.

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Amazing chess player who owned the restaurant I lunched in Sapa. He beat me three times, very easily.