The Young Man Odyssey

I was wind. I was my eternal soul after death, flying through the great plains of the universe. Atop that motorbike, I was traveling my grandfather’s America. The America Steinbeck and Kerouac traveled; vast and untamed. This feeling of liberation and freedom came on the highways of western Thailand, on a lovely road that parallels the River Kwai for miles upon miles. It was a beautiful stretch, much the same scenery and timeless feel of Highway 1 in between Bolinas and Olema.

I heard rave reviews about a waterfall 40 miles away, and figured motorcycle would be one of the most entertaining ways to get there. And indeed it was! Despite the pebbles thrashing upwards towards mouth and eyes, I spent the day meandering up rickety ladders, wading in pools, and jumping into pools. The water retains a heavenly blue color, as the calcium in limestone has this effect on the water as it runs off the rocks.

It was a glorious day. And swimming, hiking, enjoying things made me very happy to be a human being. However I started thinking of the carpet bombing the US brought to Cambodia, and the dehabilitating chemicals they used during the Vietnam war. It was a dirty way to fight a war, after seeing the aftermath this is my conclusion. The people I’ve seen hobbling on one leg, begging in the streets, could not walk the beautiful paths to the waterfalls. They had the horrible misfortune of finding a landmine the way most landmines are found, by stepping on one. In Laos and Cambodia there are over one million undiscovered mines. They are being cleared, but it’s a really slow process. By a British company.

This was the end of the road. The entire 3 mile hike revolves around one waterfall, that has 7 tiers very widely spaced apart. This was the last one, and I thought it very ceremonious to swim in. I used the weight of the waterfall as my shower, and the temperature was identical to the shower in my hotel room. Cold.

In English, the sign above says ‘end of trail’, but I was told that the script in Thai says, “You have conquered!” I felt this a paltry translation, with no attempt at retaining the spice of the Thai.

And so now I sit, tired, with two nights left. I don’t know how the return to America is going to shake me up. I have grown very accustomed to being able to drink in bars, having street vendors at every corner with 60 cent meals (restaurants much more expensive). $6 hotels, 90 cent taxi rides, 10 cent packs of cigarettes. But I very much look forward to it.

PHOTOS

Excuse this photo, I was told to do a “conquerers” pose.

Temples of Angkor Photos

The most famous of them all, Angkor Wat. Gorgeous, gorgeous, despite the disneyland sized crowds.

One of many temples on the vast property that was the ancient city.

This picture is from Vietnam, a Rikshaw driver enjoying the fruits of his own business.

Angkor Wat Monkey, thoughtful monkey.

The last time I’d been in Bangkok, it was my first night on the road. I was overwhelmed with the city, and left very early the next morning.

My Christmas reunion with the place was different. I was no longer overwhelmed by Bangkok, but felt that the travelers center, Khoa San Road, is a superfluous novelty that I don’t need. It was a different distaste this time, but a distaste nonetheless.

Khoa San Road makes me feel like the world has gone to hell. The closest thing I can compare it to in the states is Las Vegas, but with a different sense of lawlessness that you’ll only find in Bangkok. It is a generic and false representation of the wonderful country that houses it. It makes me want to quit, quit what I don’t know, but that street has an odd effect on me.

I left early this morning, to Kanchanaburi. I have a lovely $5 room only 80 meters from the River Kwai. It is a smaller town, 68000, and retains a relaxed feel that only a large river can bring. There is lots to see and do around here, and I may just spend my remaining three nights here, only to saunter back to Bangkok the afternoon before my flight.

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