Three Days in Pai, with a few more I reckon…
I got off the bus and walked around with the two brits I had met on the bus, Alex and Steph. I was planning on going to the other side of town, but I followed them and got a room for 100 baht, which is about $3, (35 baht in a dollar). We chatted with some Belgiuns in the lobby, and soon the five of us were out on the town, a fierce comaradery for a long two days.
There is a humorous anti-American sentiment spreading around the world courtesty of our dear friend Mr. Bush. And when introducing our group to people there was always the disclaimer: “Us two are british, these two are from Belgium, he’s American but he’s alright!”
We went out drinking, as us young people do. They were startled by my age as they were 31, 24, 28, and 31. They proceeded to make fun of me for it for two days as well. We went to a bar with live music spilling out the windows. The singer played a hello kitty guitar, a euro chinese with a metropolitan fashion. Busting out AC/DC, Ozzie Osbourne, among others, the whole bar of 90% locals, and us, were truly engaged.
It is funny to watch 12 year olds party like they’re 21. Because of a certain lawlessness that lies within Thailand, on the stools of the bars and hogging up the pool table were kids in their early teens and below. Most had cigarettes in their mouths, and a bottle in their small hands. It was a wonderful night, and we retired about 3 am, staying up and chatting by the river. I believe by the end of the night I spoke in a british accent.
The next day was a more noble venture. A wonderful waterfall lay 10 km away, and after assessing the possibilities and upon my suggestion, we all rented bikes for $1.50.
The countryside around Pai is astounding. Temples sit in the backyards of farmers, the gardens filled with exotic fruits and vegetables. All we could see for miles was land being used and cultivated, shanty homes perhaps, but the land they stood on made those fragile sheds seem like they were made of marble.
Alex and I bursted ahead with the strength of our legs, and Steph and Tom fell behind. The other belgiun was on a hike for the day. We arrived at a large, beautiful waterfall surrounded with lush green foliage the likes you’d only see in rural Thailand. While the other foreigners had made a quick jaunt on their rented motorcycles, we had made a pilgrimage on bicycle, and the destination meant more to us. Alex and I jumped in the cold water before the other two had even arrived. The water was freezing, but the air warmed you as soon as you stood up. Fifteen minutes later our sweaty compadres arrived, exhilirated as well. We spent an hour swimming and exploring the waterfall, and knew our ride back was completely downhill. Wonderful!
The next day we returned the bikes and Alex in Steph caught the 3:30 minibus to Chiang Mai. Our group was dismantled, and I had lost my room because I had told them I was checking out when I wasn’t. I said goodbye to my friends and started down the road looking for a hotel.
I was tired, and my body was unforgiving for the two nights past. Grumpy, I wandered down to the far side of town, down the river as it bends to the mountains. I wandered a dark alley and came upon the most beautiful resort I have found thus far. For $5, I have a hut made completely out of bamboo. I have a deck with a bench, and a wonderfull yellow hammock. My view of the river and mountains is far away but mentally exhilirating, and lying in the hammock reading my new Bill Bryson book I felt completely content. I wandered into town for the best noodle soup and mango shake of my lifetime, and paid the $1.50 with a large smile and a belly full of good intention.
I sit in the lobby of a wonderful hotel (not mine), with spiritual electro music behind me. The young Thai cashier laughs at me when I ask “How much?” in Thai but can’t decipher the answer. I suppose it is unfair of me to expect an english response asking the inital question in Thai.
Pai is a eutopia of bohemia, intelligent and young. The people are darling, the food is good, the rooms are cheap, and the mountain scenery should be a pay per view kind of thing. The only downside is it can take a travellers soul and crush it to pieces, making the travller desire to be a settled man. With my new bungalow and a great atmosphere I do not know when I’ll leave. If you ever come to Thailand I beg you with all my heart to come to Pai.
Tags: Thailand, Laos, Vietnam 2006
bumwaiter
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