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Re-Entry to the U.S. (Post#138)

Thursday, June 22nd, 2006

We write…

On June 15th we set 3 alarms for 3:00am in order to be sure to get up in time to catch our pre-arranged taxi that was scheduled to pick us up at 4:00am. Our hostal owner, who spoke no English, told us (in Spanish) that he would make the arrangements for a taxi pick up. We were both a bit nervous about this and had “Plan B” in case there was no taxi at 4:00. “Plan B” was simply to go out on the main street and flag down a cab. This was not an option we wanted to take since the neighborhood we were staying in has a reputation for being dangerous at night.

We were very thankful to find the cab outside our hostal at 4:00a. We got to the airport with no problem and the 5 hour flight from Quito, Ecuador to Houston, Texas (USA) was uneventful. At about 12:00 noon we entered the United States.

We had been out of the United States for over year and had visited 29 countries. We doubted we would just walk through customs like all the other people – and we were right. On the U.S. immigration card one of the questions asked what country we had been to before coming to the U.S. We both wrote “Ecuador + 28 others”. We got in line with several hundred other people and commented to each other that we had never seen so many people at a border crossing.

At passport control we explained to the officer that we had been out of the country for over a year and I showed him a list of the countries we had visited. These included:

Iceland
Netherlands (Holland)
Denmark
Sweden
Finland
Estonia
Norway
Poland
Czech Republic
Hungary
Turkey
Malta
Morocco
Greece
Kenya
Tanzania
Egypt
India
Thailand
Laos
Vietnam
Cambodia
Malaysia
Singapore
New Zealand
Tahiti
Chile
Peru
Ecuador

He immediately wrote a code on the top of our immigration cards and sent us on our way. When we got to customs, we noticed most people just walked on through. When we got to the customs officers they sent us to a special customs room. Once we were in the customs room we saw the majority of people following green arrows and their luggage was being x-rayed by a machine. We were told to follow the red arrows where our bags would be inspected by hand.

Neither one of us wanted to unpack our bag – not because we had anything to hide, but because it took us so long to find the perfect spot for each item so that everything would fit. Plus, we had carefully wrapped many of our souvenirs in articles of clothing and strategically placed them in just the right place so that they wouldn’t get damaged. Michele also bought some artwork that had been professionally packaged and unwrapping (then rewrapping) that would be a nightmare.

We went to two different officers. Michele’s customs agent asked her which countries she had been to, whether she was carrying food, flowers, or plants, and which countries were her favorites. He also asked her to describe the artwork that she was hand carrying. After answering these questions she was told to exit the room. Meanwhile….

Mike’s customs officer took every single item out of his pack and put it on a table to examine. Mike had some souvenirs wrapped up and the officer even unwrapped the individual souvenirs to take a closer look at them. Mike was also asked a lot of questions. The officer explained that there had been a recent increase in drugs smuggled from Ecuador and that’s why he wanted to go through Mike’s bag so thoroughly. The officer was pleasant enough and after 30 minutes of digging through Mike’s stuff, he let Mike repack his bag. During this time Michele waited outside the special customs room and asked people exiting whether or not Mike (tall guy with long beard) was still talking with an agent. One couple told Michele, “It’s going to be a while. He’s got the entire contents of his pack spread out all over a table.” About 45 minutes after Michele exited, Mike walked through the door.

We had booked our own flights back into the U.S. and purposefully scheduled a 3 hour layover just in case we had trouble getting through customs. We’re so smart!

So, after 374 days, 29 countries and tens of thousands of dollars (look for a complete spending analysis in the near future) we’re happy to report we are alive and well (but a bit tired). What a trip!

As a comparison, here we are before and after our around-the-world trip:

BEFORE leaving on our trip (June 5, 2005):

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AFTER our trip (June 15, 2006):

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We are now in San Francisco, California visiting friends. Tomorrow we will go to the Portland, Oregon area to visit Michele’s family before returning to our “home” (storage unit and P.O. box) on the East Coast…

Parasitic Occupation (Post #137)

Sunday, June 18th, 2006

Mike writes–

Oh, the things i`ve been through on this trip…

As Michele mentioned in Post #136, we didn’t do a lot of sightseeing in Quito. One reason is that we were dealing with the situation described below.
While we were in the Santa Cruise Island after finishing our Galapagos cruise on the Legend i noticed a zit or ingrown hair on the back of my neck just about an inch below the hairline. It seemed logical that it was an ingrown hair because just about 10 days earlier Michele had shaved the back of my neck. One night Michele attempted to squeeze the pus out of it but only got what appeared to be oil. oh well, i figured it would be gone in a week or so…

Well, by the time we were in Riobamba it was not gone. In fact, it had grown a bit and by June 9th (the same day we rode the train), it was a bulge about 2″ in diameter. “hmmm… maybe my ingrown hair is infected,” i thought. I was beginning to think going to a Dr. when we got to Quito would be a good idea. Then, when we got up on the morning of June 10th, i thought it seemed like it was shrinking a bit. “Maybe i don`t need to go to a Dr.” It is such a pain to go to a Dr. in a foreign country. I was also considering the difficulty the language barrier might pose to me in the Dr´s office.

After thinking about it some more while we were on the bus from Riobamba to Quito, i decided it would be best to just go to the Dr. After all, while i do believe i know a bit about medicine, i really didn`t know what this thing on my neck was.

After settling into our hostal in Quito, i went and asked the manager about what hospital would be best for me to go to if i was looking for English-speaking Drs. He recommended Hospital Vozandes which is a hospital the Lonely Planet guide book indicates is American owned (at least it was at the time the book was researched). I understood him to say that all of the Drs there are foreigners and they speak English. Great! The Manager called us a $3 cab to the hospital and off we went.

Upon arriving at the hospital, my hopes were immediately dashed. As i looked around in the reception area of the hospital, i didn`t see a single sign in English… Spanish, Spanish everywhere. I actually began to get a bit angry. I just had different expectations based upon what i understood the hostal manager to be telling me.

We waited in line for a few minutes and were told to walk down the hall to the right and go to the Emergency “room”. When we got there, i began to get more angry. It was totally unclear to me what i was supposed to do next. There was a nurse in what appeared to be an Emergency reception room. She seemed to be “receiving” patients but everything was being conducted in Spanish and patients seemed to be cutting in front of me. I guess i wasn`t being assertive enough. Finally i spoke to the nurse in broken Spanish about why i had come to the hospital and showed her the inflammation on my neck.

A few minutes later i was in the Dr´s office again trying to have a conversation with him about my condition. After having a look, he called another Dr. in the hospital who could act as an interpreter. She explained to me in English what was going on. Ok so, the Dr. was going to drain my abcess and send what he drained to the lab. While we were waiting for the lab results (to be ready 4 days later on Wednesday — which was also going to be our last day outside of the U.S.) they would put me on a course of antibiotics which might be changed depending on the lab results.

So next the Dr. removed whatever was underneath the skin on the back of my neck. Michele and i had already noticed that whatever it was, it felt pretty solid, not like the softer feeling one would expect from a bacterial infection. The “draining” of my abcess was, as of yet, the most painful experience i have ever had.  I was obviously unable to see what he was doing but i felt him repeatedly pull my skin up, scrape around with some sort of blade, dig in the center with another instrument, and poke a needle several times into my neck. He did not use any anaesthetic.
When it was finally over, the collar of my shirt was soaked with blood, and the Dr. had taped gauze to my wound. When he told me i could sit up, i saw the tools the Dr. was using. These included a pair of surgical scissors and a syringe among others. I also noticed the “test tube” into which he had packed the sample. It was about 6″ long, the diameter of my little finger, and it was packed full of blood and something the color of pus but seemed to be solid (or colloidally suspended).

Since the the Dr. and i weren`t able to communicate directly, he called in the English-speaking Dr. to translate again. The translator explained that what i had was most likely the larva of a parasite since the thing in my neck was hard and actually quite difficult to remove. I commented that i also noticed it was hard to remove (was it ever!). So, the course of antibiotics would stand but additionally, i was to keep this gauze over the wound to prevent the larva from getting oxygen. Allegedly they would die within 24-48 hours without oxygen and, when i returned on wednesday, anything still there could be removed. When i explained we were expecting to fly to the U.S. on Thursday, i was told that was no problem.

Later that evening, we went to an internet cafe and did a google search on parasitic flys endemic to South America. The most likely candidate we came up with was the Human Botfly which you can read more about at this site http://www.vexman.com/botfly.htm . These creatures infest humans in one of a few ways. One way is that a fly catches a mosquito, lays its eggs on the mosquito and when the mosquito goes to bite a human, the human body heat causes the larva to hatch out of the eggs and burrow under the skin. They also allegedly lay eggs in clothing. When a person puts the clothing on, the eggs hatch and the larva burrow as with the mosquito bite.

Through our research online, we found that the larva use the hole they burrowed through to breath and covering this hole is the way to starve the larva of oxygen and cause them to come back to the skin`s surface in search of oxygen. They can also sometimes be removed manually but care must be taken to remove the creatures in their entirety and not leave any infection-promoting pieces behind.

At this point, we began to get concerned about whether the Dr. had done the right thing by attempting manual extraction. Furthermore, we weren`t confident the gauze was really going to suffocate these bastards. Seemed to us that air can pass through gauze. So that night and the following days we started taking the additional measure of smearing antibacterial ointment on the wound. Yes, we know antibacterial ointment isn´t going to kill a fly larva but the antibiotics of such an ointment is actually held in petroleum jelly (like vasoline). Smearing petroleum jelly on the breathing hole is one proposed way of preventing the larva from getting oxygen. We figured antibacterial ointment is just one step better because we would also be discouraging bacterial infection at the same time.

On Sat, June 10th, upon leaving the hospital i was told to come back on Monday, to get my neck cleaned, and on Wednesday, to get the lab results.

We went back to the hospital on Monday. A nurse cleaned my neck and put a fresh bandage on. About 30 minutes after leaving the hospital i started feeling bad. About 4 hours after leaving the hospital i had a high fever and chills. We decided to go back. This time 2 doctors examined my neck in the emergency room. Neither one spoke English so they got a 4th year med student to act as the translater. They gave me Tylenol to reduce my fever and after some discussion, said (via the translator) that they did not think there were any larva in my neck. After paying $15 for the emergency room visit, I was told to be sure to come back on Wednesday.

And so, this story is now coming to an end…

We went back to the hospital on Wednesday to get the lab results. The doctor we saw did not speak English but i understood about 90% of what she said. She told us the test results were negative for bacteria. This didn’t necessarily mean there were never any larva in my neck. However, she said there was no larva now and that no further action was necessary.
At this time (4 days after the last hospital visit), the thing on my neck is much smaller and seems to be diminishing. Although everything turned out o.k., i will probably never know for sure whether or not there were larva living in my neck. There was certainly something big there at one time but what that thing was will probably remain a mystery.

Quito, Ecuador (Post #136)

Friday, June 16th, 2006
Michele writes... On the morning of Jun10th, we went to the terminal terriste (main bus terminal) in Riobamba to catch a bus going to Quito. The way it works in Ecuador (and many other South American countries) is that you simply ... [Continue reading this entry]

Riobamba, Ecuador (Post #135)

Sunday, June 11th, 2006
Michele here... As Mike wrote in the last blog we arrived at our not-so-great hostel (Ecuahogar Hostel) in the suburbs of Guayaquil on Tuesday, June 6th. The main reason for staying at this place was because it was close to the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador – Part VI (Post #134),

Thursday, June 8th, 2006
Our last full day (May 31st) on the Legend, after visiting Espanola, we skipped the afternoon excursion to the interpretive center on San Cristobal.  We figured we had already seen the Darwin Center at Puerto Ayora and the interpretive center didn´t ... [Continue reading this entry]

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador – Part V (Post #133)

Thursday, June 8th, 2006
Michele writes.... We woke up May 30th to find the Legend cruiseship was anchored in a giant volcanic crater.  When we went up to the ship deck we found we were surrounded on all sides by Genovesa island except for a break ... [Continue reading this entry]

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador – Part IV (Post #132)

Thursday, June 8th, 2006
On May 28th both of our excursions were to the island of Santa Cruz.  Of the Archipelago, Santa Cruz has the largest population with the largest city on the island, Puerto Ayora, having about 20,000 inhabitants.  The morning excursion was to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador – Part III (Post #131)

Wednesday, June 7th, 2006
Mike and Michele write... On the morning of May 27th, we arose at our normal early hour, had the buffet breakfast and disembarked for the island of Santiago at 8 a.m. We arrived on a beautiful black sand beach and did an ... [Continue reading this entry]

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador – Part II (Post #130)

Wednesday, June 7th, 2006
Mike writes... Our first excursion from the M/S Galapagos Legend was just 2.5 hours after getting onboard.  This was beginning to look like what we experienced in the Amazon Basin -- we would be very busy with excursions.  Anyway, the first ... [Continue reading this entry]

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador – Part I (Post #129)

Wednesday, June 7th, 2006
Michele here...writing from the Galapagos Islands. On Thursday, May 25th, we boarded a plane going from Guayaquil, Ecuador to the Galapagos Islands (Ecuador). We have been looking forward to going to the Galapagos Islands since the beginning of the trip and there ... [Continue reading this entry]