PreGrad ASIA-M.E.-AFRICA

Before leaving for Rishikesh, we booked a driver and a car to pick us up and drive us back to Delhi and for the entire trip through Rajahstan. Jaypal Singh was a tall guy, a former high school long jumper to be exact, and had this litely colored red patch of hair in the middle of his head. We learned a lot about Singh and the capabilities of his Tata (like a geo metro) during the 6 hour ride back to Delhi. For one, NO ONE CAN PASS him. He could be a formula one race car driver if team India ever discovered him. The man was an animal. Before he picked us up, he had just completed a 22hour driving shift. Driving regulations in India are flexible you see.

The next morning, he picked us back up from the Surie household and we began another 7 hour journey to Pushkar. Now, in general, I try not to travel so hard, but what choice did we have? I wanted to see everything. Only a private car could do the trick. In case you are wondering, it is not expensive to do such a thing here, it only seems ultra classy.

Our first stop was Pushkar. Pushkar is a holy city in the province of Rajahstan. This literally means, “land of the Rajas, (or kings)” The Raj’s gave up control of their fifedoms back 50 years ago when India democratized. And with that went the lap of luxery: wild orgies, ultimate power, and palatial estates. However, many of the children and grandchildren of these Maharajas do quite well today, enjoying second homes in foreign ports, playing polo matches, and marriage engagements to other international royalty.

Pushkar has become famous over the years because of the annual camel and cattle trading fair that takes place here. Right or wrong we decided to go. With over 20,000 camels attending, how could we miss out on the fun. For your information, a cheap camel may go for 5,000 Rs ($130) up to 22,000 Rs. ($600) These are not like Hamood Altooqi’s racing camels that fetch upwards of $500,000. The price is based on age and strength. These are work animlas in this part of the world.

Our accomodations were more than average. We stayed in this three room canves tent with running water and a sitting room. Everyone’s tent was within the government compound that included all meals and 24hr security. Just imagine the setup for officials organising a PGA tournament. Most of the other tourists were French, American, and German. We must have been the youngest people there. All in all, I do not recommed the event. Although the largest in the world, tourism has affected the essence of the event, and subsequently, the government has had to subsidize many of the traders to encourage their involvement with the event. When the government has such a good moneymaker its easy to see why they would do anything to keep the foreigners coming.

Probably the best thing that came out of it was the chance to visit a local Rajahstani family. Singh took us on a ride through some local villiges. We were getting hot and decided to stop in front of a traditional looking home to rehydrate. Next thing I new, we were invited inside the home to allow me to take pictures of the family. I hope to send some of these photos out when they are developed. Ethan’s dream come true: the opportunity for a private photoshoot with traditionally dressed Rajahstani woman.

Our next stop was Jaipur, the city of precious stones.

Rishikesh is in Uttranchal province five hours North from Delhi and sits on the Ganges River and 300km South of the grand Himalayas. Just ask any Israeli, hippie, or any yoga guru, and they should be able to tell you something about this place. For me, it was a relaxing retreat from the confines of Delhi.

Adam and I took the 7 am train from Delhi and arrived in Haridwar at 11:30. The train was surpirsingly quick and clean, but I intentionally slept through the meal! From Haridwar, we took an auto rickshaw 18km to Rishikesh. The journey cost 200 rupes, around 4 dollars. After dropping us off, we set off on foot looking for the hotel that we booked. Tapovan Resort, hmmm. I’m thinking four star with swimming pool. Not in this town. It was the best place around, but Indian standards are a bit lower. Although you get what you pay for (1600 rupes = 32 dollars). I guess looking back, we were looking for something more because we paid a shit load for the hotel through the travel agent. This might be a clean business back at home, but here in India it’s take or be taken.

So this place is like something out of “some” of our parent’s travel diaries from the early 70’s. Hippie looking westerners in the lotus positions smoking dubies and repeating mantras. Every building is an ashram and every push-stand is selling sandlewood holy beads. However, the air was crisp and the scenary beautifull. And one more thing… the second language in this town is not English, but Hebrew. The Israelis are all post army and looking for cheap eats and groovy experiances. Spending any more than $3 a night seemed absurd to them. I guess that’s the kind of budget you need to be on to survive for six months without working!

The two days were spent doing yoga, reading by the Ganges, and speaking with the locals. I actually aranged something pretty cool for the morning. A taxi picked us ( and an Israeli couple) up at 5:30 am and drove us to a temple on the highest peak in the valley to watch the sun rise behind the white tips of the Himalayas (300km away). Two hours later, I got Adam to take a yoga class with me taught by an Indian living in the local ashram. Adam quite somewhere between sun and warrior position (but wanted to go again).

Last but not least, for all the jewish mothers out there. Adam and I attended Friday night services at the Jewish Chabad house (a sect of the faith that encourages people to come back into the faith). I could not believe that such a place existed. Orthodox Jews in a Hindu holy city? Black hats next to Saree wearing devotees? Nevertheless, the home was filled to the brim with Israelis looking for a little taste of home. It was my first experiance making the blessing over a chipati instead of challah.

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