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The status of Japanese-American diplomacy

Wednesday, January 11th, 2006

I speak and she nods; she speaks and I do the same. These nods and subtle gestures allude to understanding, but underneath we’re both holding on barely by fingernails. Nods say, “I understand”, “I’ve got it,” “wakarimashita,” “naruhodo,” but in reality, either one of us is floundering at 60% at any given time by my estimate. We pick up the pace because we’re nodding. We speak more and faster because we’re nodding, because we’re tired and lazy, until finally we are lost among the consonants and syllables.
“Hayai,” I say. “Fast Danny,” she says. These are the daily oscillations of an international, bilingual relationship.
Ultimately, I think it’s a blast. Constantly entertaining and fascinating. When Chiaki does something particularly interesting or cute, I have to ask myself the normal questions like, “Is that something most women do, or just Japanese women?” Maybe it’s not women at all, but Japanese people, or maybe because she’s a nurse, wait…a Japanese nurse! That must be it. They taught her those quirks in Japanese nursing school. Or is it just because she’s Saito Chiaki-chan? I’m lucky to find that most of the time it’s in asking the latter question that I find my answer.   I’m lucky.

Something fishy

Wednesday, January 11th, 2006

Japan is one of the safest, if not the safest, country around. I’ve literally never felt threatened in any way here…until Tsukiji fish market made it on my itinerary. I finally woke up early enough on a day in November to visit this famous corner of Tokyo carved out of the buzzing trains and skyscrapers. Up by 6:30, on the train at 7:00, delving into the market at a quarter to eight. I still had a couple of hours to see the action.

First, we need some perspective: Shinjuku station is the busiest train station on Earth. Everyday around two million people pass through this hub all going different directions. You can imagine the tension that this recipe for collision creates. Now imagine that you’ve given half of everyone at Shinjuku a bike, motor scooter, or motor powered cart. This is Tsukiji.

Like most of Japan, Tsukiji is a combination of old and new, but there is something uniquely special here. This market is right in the heart of central Tokyo’s busy business district, yet nowhere else have I felt what I imagine to be the “samurai spirit” thriving so powerfully than in the fishmongers of this market.

But we’ll get back to them shortly. First, I need to clarify that it is disingenuous to describe Tsukiji as a market. Rather, it is an international seafood exposition that occurs every week, Monday through Friday, beginning with the tuna auction at 4am. If it’s in the ocean, then it can be found, dead or alive, somewhere in these eight city blocks where the mouth of the Sumida River meets Tokyo Bay. And being Japan, it’s almost all ready to eat as-is. Yum!

Now I love fish of every variety, but there was some crazy stuff here that I was a little queasy about. Most of it I’ve probably already eaten, but to see it in that raw form is so amazing. For example, let’s take the fish liver. They don’t take it out for display, oh no. They artistically slice the fish open to display how nice this liver is. If you want that fish’s liver you’ve gotta buy the whole fish, buddy.

But there I was, with no intention of buying any of these sea beasts. I stood, bobbed, and occasionally weaved my way through the extremely narrow stall ways. If you aren’t at Tsukiji to buy fish or sell fish, you are an obstacle. You are in the way! Japan has been such a friendly place, totally foreigner friendly, until that day at Tsukiji. For the first time I was sworn at in Japanese…I’m pretty sure. These fishmongers are nicknamed “Edo-ko,” translated “children of Edo.” The Edo period of Japan was the quintessential samurai time, so when I say that the spirit of the samurai still thrives, I meant it. These Edo-ko actually speak a slightly different dialect of Japanese. So I stood and gawked, took pictures like the dorkiest tourist ever, and was sworn at in a strange Japanese fish dialect before pigging out on sushi. And all before 10am! What a cool place.

Am I lost in the world yet?

Wednesday, January 11th, 2006
Well here I sit, having lived in Asia for approximately 15 months in the sleepy seaside town of Hitachi(yes, like the TVs), and I feel like my real Asian adventure is truly about to start. Japan has been an amazing ... [Continue reading this entry]

Vend me something to eat

Tuesday, May 24th, 2005
Japan is the land of vending machines. There are approximately 5 million unvandalized machines throughout Japan just waiting to thank you for your next purchase. Sounds convenient, I suppose, and it is if you’re thirsty or need a cigarette. If ... [Continue reading this entry]

Riding the pulse

Tuesday, March 29th, 2005
Step inside the living room, the bedroom, and the kitchen if you promise to be discreet or ravenous but nothing in between. Welcome to the classroom and the library where the study lights never dim. Stroll into the live house, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Japanese drugs are great

Tuesday, March 15th, 2005
I got really sick this week. The flu finally caught up with me after dodging it for about six years. It sucked, as having the flu always does, but gave me a glimpse at the way Japan does medicine. It ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Japanese secret to long life

Friday, March 4th, 2005
If Japan is really the land of long life that the statistics claim it to be, then the logic behind these facts got lost on me somewhere between the office and the cigarette vending machine. This is the land of ... [Continue reading this entry]

City by the sea

Thursday, February 10th, 2005
Walking down any street in Tokyo, you never get the feeling that you’re in a city by the sea, but you are. Perhaps it’s the inescapable bigness of Tokyo; the endless sea of buildings and roads piled higher and higher ... [Continue reading this entry]

Danny does Tokyo

Sunday, January 30th, 2005
How to describe Tokyo? Let me try. This city is all about layers. If a highway gets too crowded, lanes aren't widened, another highway is built on top of the first…or under it. Same goes for the trains. At first ... [Continue reading this entry]