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On the proper care and feeding of managers

Saturday, December 16th, 2006

Japan’s over flooded market of English conversation and children’s schools ensure that most English-speaking university grads around the world will be able to find a job.  But be prepared for an east meets west experience.  The dichotomies that exist in your average private school will usually be one of the first cultural shocks that a new transplant to Japan will face.  Before arriving, I imagined overtime, weekends at work, and every other nightmarish work scenario associated with Japanese companies.  After settling in at my school, I found that my worries couldn’t be further from the truth.  There is a concerted effort to divide the labor into two distinct pools: Japanese and foreign.  While the stereotypical work conditions are definitely present, foreign teachers are largely sheltered from them.  The brunt of the workload falls on the Japanese staff, primarily the school manager.  Because we speak that Golden language, we are paid more, do less, and are able to see out a year contract without exerting much effort, seriousness, or sobriety.  It’s a pretty nice arrangement, but made guilty, a feeling that grew throughout my 16 month tenure at my fledgling company.

This is a story of English conversation school managers, a group of characters that I became quite fascinated with while teaching in Japan.  The managers that tend to succeed, and by succeed I mean don’t quit, are the biggest gluttons for punishment.  Any foreigner who has taught in Japan has no doubt marveled at the level of verbal abuse managers take from upper management on a daily basis.  The young men and women that filtered in and out of my school over the course of a year would receive a call each evening, at which time the yelling would begin for not meeting his or her ridiculously inflated sales goal.

The idea behind this management approach is that the higher the goal, the higher becomes motivation to achieve the mark.  This idea is deeply rooted in Japan’s “ganbatte” culture, where all are encouraged to “do one’s best”, regardless of the insurmountable task at hand.  To this day I can’t understand the level of self-sacrifice Japanese devote to their jobs.  Does this make me a typical Western quitter?  I don’t think so.  I like to think we’re realistic.  When you focus on realistic goals, motivation increases, time is more efficiently managed, and the work environment cultivates a higher feeling of accomplishment among workers.

At my school we would have a weekly meeting to discuss campaigns, student renewals, and fiscal goals.  The process often went painfully slow, and was generally a waste of time.  The conversation would usually go something like this:

“Our campaign goal is 900,000 yen (roughly $9,000),” the manager would start.

“Uh-huh.”

“Right now we have achieved 120,000 yen.”

“Right.”

“The campaign lasts three more days so…let’s all do our best to gain five more students so that we can achieve our goal.  Gambarimashou!” 

“Sure.  No problem.”  Our small school of 100 students should have no problem boosting its enrollment by 5% in three days.  Instead of focusing on the previous two weeks of the campaign, and why the sales results were so dismal, the manager is trained to narrowly assess only the immediate task at hand, and forge on resiliently.

The longer I stay in Japan, the more I observe this blind, masochistic dedication.  At this particular company, one the of the “big 3” conversation schools, these tendencies run rampant.  The top leadership rarely provides innovative solutions to poor business results, and their management styles seems more like belligerent bullying. 

In many ways, I look at much of the English conversation industry as a sinking ship, with the hardened, loyal staff going down valiantly, obeying the orders of their incompetent superiors until the end.  There has been a downward trend in business over the past 15 years in Japan, and the entire nature of the language industry has been drastically changed by technology.  Students have so many more options for learning English these days with the Internet, free podcasting, and interactive language software.  The lag time in reacting to these changes says a lot about the endemic lack of creativity and innovation in Japanese business.  There seems to be a time warp in reason, where the pervasive idea remains that whatever worked in 1987 should work today.

From time to time I would receive a letter from the corporate headquarters titled: The proper care and feeding of managers.  It included a list of suggestions for making the school manager’s life a bit easier.  These always amused me, because in my mind it is the head office that should be receiving these subtle tips on civility and encouragement in the workplace. 

It’s been nearly a year since I jumped ship, and I still bristle at the incoming gossip from my previous coworkers and friends who worked for other big conversation schools.  The managers keep trudging along, obeying the ridiculous orders of upper management, seemingly oblivious to the house of cards coming down around them.

A week to go: The Capitals Tour rough itinerary

Saturday, December 16th, 2006

In 9 days I’ll be heading to Seoul to begin my two week “capitals tour” of Asia.  The capitals tour, as I’ve started calling it, will begin on Christmas day in Seoul.  My girlfriend and I will be spending three nights, which if Seoul is anything like Tokyo, will be plenty of time to soak in the major sights.  When Chiaki heads back to Japan, my journey truly begins and the schedule is thrown out the window.  I’ve got two weeks to wander back to Tokyo.  From Seoul I will head north to the demilitarized zone.  The North Koreans have been digging tunnels across the border for 50 years and tours are available.  I’ve heard from friends that the DMZ experience is surreal.  Each side is still locked in a steely stare, looking through the cross hairs.

From there I will catch the evening bus south to Gwangju, where I will meet up with my Ozzy buddy Scott.  Scott’s place will provide a good base to see some of the sites of the southern peninsula.  Eventually I’ll head over to South Korea’s second largest city, Pusan, and arrange ferry accommodations to Hiroshima.

The Japan leg of this trip is all about living cheap and seeing some of Western Japan’s sites that haven’t made the itinerary during my first two years.  The list includes Hiroshima, Himeji castle, Kobe, Nara, and Osaka.

The three yearly school holiday periods in Japan provide excellent travel opportunities.  Sure, some of the attractions are a bit crowded, but most everything is crowded in Japan anyway.  The main cost-cutting  comes with the  seishun  ju-hachi kippu, or  youth  saver  18 ticket.  For 11,500  yen,  you  can  travel  for five days unlimited on local and rapid trains.  This is a steal in Japan, where transportations costs are some of the highest in the world.  This ticket doesn’t allow you to take advantage of the modern high-speed trains, and shouldn’t be used by tourists staying briefly.  But if you have the time, a stack of books, and enjoy the slower lane of life, this ticket is for you.

My budget for this trip is thin because I am saving for my Silk Road journey from Shanghai to Germany that will start in March.  I had these 17 days off during the holidays and wanted to go somewhere on the cheap.  While I had hoped to go somewhere a bit warmer, the tickets to Korea were too cheap to pass up.  It will also be nice to get my last big dose of Japan before leaving this country, a place I’ve called home for over two years.

Planning your plan: Trip Preparation

Wednesday, December 13th, 2006
It doesn't matter if you’re planning a vacation, a trek, a round-the-world trip, or a weekend getaway; whatever the scope of your adventure, a little planning is essential and can be almost as enjoyable as the trip itself. If ... [Continue reading this entry]

Modern education in modern Japan?

Tuesday, December 12th, 2006
When I was young I remember hearing about the studious Japanese youth, slaving away well into the evening and even on Saturdays. This was at the height of the economic boom, now referred to as the “bubble era.” The ... [Continue reading this entry]

Let’s talk about Japan!

Thursday, December 7th, 2006

Are you thinking about coming to the far-off nation of Japan to land a teaching job? Has the dust been collecting on your diploma, and your job stocking shelves at the grocery store ... [Continue reading this entry]