Aymi’s Adventures

View of Panama from the Causeway 

Panama City was a lot bigger and more westernised than I had origionally thought. The only country so far where you can flush your toilet paper down the toilet, and you can drink the tap water. Looks like the Americans did some pretty good stuff for the country while they were here – for once (sorry guys!)!!

The Panama Canal was pretty amazing, the only thing I knew about Panama was its canal and Panama Hats (which actually come from somewhere else – cant remember where though!) and I soon found out I actually knew nothing about the canal either.  How long it took to build, how difficult a job it was, it was actually the French who started it but had to give up and sell the contract to the Americans who managed to complete it about 10 years later.  About 22000 people died – mainly of Malaria and yellow fever.  Pretty interesting stuff all in all.  Watched 2 boats go through the locks having to take some of the cargo off in order for the boat to raise up enough to make it through the lock.  It cost the boat $150,000,000 in cash just to go through the lock, and overall that is still less than what it would cost if they had to go all around South America instead of using the canal!

Went to Plaza Cinco de Mayo, on the 5th May, so there were loads of celebrations going on, most of which I didnt understand and I was pretty dissapointed with the plaza, it was sooo small, not quite what I expected, so we didnt stay for very long.

Casco Antiguo full of ruins and churches made for an interesting morning walk on a Sunday morning

Albrook shopping mall was actually pretty cool as far as shopping centers go.  I wanted to go to the national park but as it was p*ssing it down I though the shopping mall sounded like a good idea.  After sweet and sour chicken, noodles and rice and buying a pair of shoes I though maybe it wasnt such a good idea – more stuff to lug around in my backpack and less money for the rest of the year!

Causeway

Headed up to David and went to La Amistad National Park & Cerro Punto, it was absolutely gorgeous there, I can see why all the Panamanians want to go there to retire.  The small houses and greenery, plants and streems everywhere were like something out of a Lewis Carroll Novel.  Some local guy gave us a tree tomato to try, it was sooo sour, had to try and eat it so as not to be rude, but as soon as we were out of distance it got chucked!

Next and final stop in Panama was Bocas de Toro, a group of Islands on the Carribean coast of North Panama.  It was amazing, the main town was really small, with one main club Shipwreck (which actually has a shipwreck in the middle of it where the floor is open and you can just look down into the sea and see the wreck and fish swimming around it – dependant on how much alcohol you´ve had of course!), and lots of bars and restaurants so there was always somewhere to go.  Went on a boat trip around some of the Islands, it really was like paradise, there was just us on them swimming and snorkelling in the clear blue carribean sea and lounging around on the hot soft white sand, either staring out into the ocean, or into the tropical palm tree filled inland.

So I arrived in Guyaquill fine, although very sad after saying goodbye to my Samba companions, and thought I would give the city another go as I was still in such a good mood after Galapagos, I thought nothing could be as bad as I remembered it!

After walking 2 blocks I was already annoyed at all the stares, shouts and kisses so ducked into the 1st internet cafe I saw.  3 Hours later I had only managed to upload around 50 photos and had a numb bum from sitting on the uncomfy chair for so long.  Realising I was actually pretty hungry I decided to walk down to the Malecon 2000 for some 5* cuisine (In Guyaquill Macdonalds is classed as 5*cuisine as it is the only thing that looks even remotely edible) I didnt even make it that far.  Luckily for me I spotted a Macdonalds even closer so quickly sought sanctuary in there.

Afterwards I walked a different was back to my hotel in an unsuccessful search of a better internet cafe, by the time I arrived back I was actually quite thankful that my returned ear infection had rendered me almost completely deaf in my right ear because if I had heard just one more comment of belissima or guapa it would have been highly likely that I would flip – probably resulting in me spending the night somewhere much worse than my hotel.

I was absolutely shattered and very hot and sweaty by this point so decided to call it a day and get a good nights sleep – only 7.30pm as well  (we would have just finished dinner this time yesterday).  I woke up at 9pm (which I soon remembered was actually 10pm as Ecuador is an hour ahead of Galapagos and I had forgotten to change my watch) even hotter and sweatier than when I went to bed, really wishing I had paid the $2 extra for air con instead of the almost useless ceiling fan which only succeeded to annoy me by the constant squeaking.  The guy next doors TV was blaring out and by the sound of the noises he was making he certainly wouldnt have had any problems with a foggy snorkel – nice!!!

I was quite glad that there was only cold water and felt a little better after a cold shower, I filled my ears full of ear drops and cotton wool – partly to help the infection and partly to drown out the guy next door, and went back to sleep.  The shower and ear drop process was repeated 3 times throughout the night and I still woke up at 6am.  Not wanting to reenter the city of stares, I busied myself with any un-interesting task to pass the morning until by 9.30 I was starving so decided to try a recommended eatery; el toro asado.  On arrival after many more stares and shouts, it looked dodgy as hell and was closed anyway – back to Macdonalds it was.  The closest one was also closed (why is it nowhere but England do Macdonalds open early and have a breakfast menu – not that I ever go there of course!!!) so onwards I went along the Malecon 2000 to the 2nd Macdonalds which was also closed, but looked like it was about to open so decided to sit and wait as I hadn’t seen anywhere else that looked like I could eat without getting food poisoning (how I wished I had Freddie {Samba chef} with me to russel up some fine salad sculptures!). 

As I sat down this odd looking bloke said “hey, how you doin” I was suprised and pleased at the same time – the first English speaker I had met in Guyaquill.  He was a short older guy, with a pinstripe suit and his hair all slicked back.  He had worked for the American Embassy in Guyaquill for 4 years now – I didnt care, I was just happy to have even this strange old man to talk to.  It did make more sense when he told me his parents were from Italy, and I realised thats what he looked like – someone out of one of the Italian Mafia films!!!

So a Big Mac later, another hour wasted in the Internet cafe and it was back to the hotel and a taxi to the airport – thank god, my last few hours in this god forsaken town!!  The dumb ass taxi driver obviously thought I liked walking in the heat with my 22k backpack (its gone down a kilo sinse last time – yey) and dropped me off at arrivals instead of departures – muppet!

The flight left early (thats a first – and luckily I was there in time!!) and I was not sad to leave Guyaquill behind.  The usual ham and cheese sarnie on the plane, although I was very pleased that it was also accompanied by some Lays (almost as good as Walkers) crisps.  Arrived in Panama, it was very hot and humid, the taxi to the hostel I found on the internet earlier today took about half an hour and Panama City looked a lot bigger than I expected.  Also a lot more westernised, with Hard Rock cafe´s, nice looking restaurants, Subway, Macdonalds (dont think I will be having another for a while), pretty churches etc etc.  Im looking forward to having some adventures here! 

Me and my Boobies!! 

I am so glad I decided to do this, even though it cost me well over a months budget just for a week, it was well worth it, the highlight of my travels so far.  To say it is a nature lovers paradise is an understatement, it is just PARADISE.

The Samba boat was fab, the crew were really friendy and looked after us well, cooking us three 5* meals a day and two snacks a day, all presented beautifully.  Maurice our tour guide was so knowledgeable and passionate on both the history of the Islands and the animals.  The other people on the boat were really friendly and a pleasure to spend time with, Bell was my Baileys drinking partner, Christian my cards partner & Phil my photo partner.  There was not a thing I could fault. 

A little over four million years ago there was open ocean where the Galapagos Islands now lie, on the equator some 600 miles west of Ecuador. But submarine volcanic activity slowly built up the string of islands that Darwin visited in 1835.  No doubt they are much different now than they were then, although i’m sure the experiences were just as fantastic.  To find out how the plants initially begin to grow, each new thing bringing something else with it, to hear and see how the animals have adapted themselves to their new circumstances in order to survive, sometimes the adaptation being so great that it actually creates a new species.  It really is the best education in evolution I have ever had. 

To walk amongst sealions and marine iguanas, having to be careful not to step on them, see hundreds of birds flying overhead in the bright blue cloudless sky, to swim with sealions, penguins, turtles and sharks – all at once, are the most amazing feelings ever. 

I was sat on the beach one morning when a sealion came ambling over to me, sniffed my back so I could feel her whiskers tickling me and then carried on to the sea, not something that happens on any old beach!  Snorkelling and seeing a penguin feeding off the tiny fish just a meter or so away and being able to float and watch it for at least 5 minutes before it swam off to find its desert.  Chasing white tip reef sharks through the oceans warm and cold currents without crashing into the hundreds of undersea craters.  Being so close to seaturtles you could make out every marking on them, including the alge growing on their backs, you could have reached out and touched their shells.  Seeing blue footed boobies sat on their nests and eggs & even their chicks and still only being a meter away.  I could go on forever, the experiences were never ending.  Unfortunately the trip was.  I was not looking forward to leaving my newfound paradise – especially to go back to Guyaquill!

Goodbye Galapagos!

View of Quito 

I have fallen in love with another country – Ecuador is amazing and I have not even seen half of it.  There is so much to do here, from Volcanoes to canyons, bridge jumping to white water rafting, bike riding, horse riding, quad bike riding and even weird religious festivals that look like the purple klu klux clan!!!

I flew from Lima to Quito with Kate – a much less uneventfull flight than the last!  Then 3 nights in Quito with Kate, which quickly changed to 5 nights and I still hadnt had time to do everything I wanted to.

Climbed Guagua Pinchincha Volcano, the nearest one to Quito, just 9k’s away, and when I say climbed I mean climbed – it reminded me a bit of when someone talked me into climbing Snowdon – the hard route – Crib Goch, but with added snow & altitude and even more difficult. It is 4800mtrs high but we started at 4200mtrs, well the first bit is just boring!!! The last 200mtrs were the hardest climbing in the snow, but it was worth it (even though we couldn’t see the crater for all the mist) when we were sat at the top drinking mugs of soup and dipping bread, looking back at where we had just come from.

Went to Otavalo Market for the day, which is a really cool little town with a huge market. Mainly the same stuff you get in every market in South America with the exception of roasted pigs heads – yes really! I couldnt resist this beautiful handpainted picture although I am regretting it now as I have to carry it round everywhere carefully without messing it up – quite difficult when travelling! I’m actually suprised I havent left it anywhere yet.

Otavala Square, Market, and Pigs Head – a local delicacy obviously judging from the number of these available here!!

Watched the Good Friday procession – part of Santa Semana, very bizarre, lots of people dressed like the purple Klu Klux Clan carrying huge wooden crosses and wipping each other with chains!

Next was Latacunga with Jorge and two lovely tour guides.  Was a very bizarre day, from the guides to the comida tipica (local food) of choclos – looks like corn on the cob but tastes like chalk, some weird giant beans, cheese from god knows what animal and nectar of peach juice – yummy scrummy!!!  To the mule ride back up from the crater lake cos I was too lazy to walk!! Lago Quilitoa was amazing, the water was such a gorgeous colour, it was like staring at a real life postcard.

Stopped at a local bar on the way back – very local & also very cool!!

Then off to Banos for some white water rafting, bike riding, thermal spa baths and a bit more walking.  It was amazing here even though it was really touristy, I could quite happily come back and work here for a while, well I could if I could improve my spanish anyway!!!  The best hostel yet, definately recommended to anyone thinking of coming to Ecuador – Plantas y blanca, fantastic! There is also a spa room on the top floor, it is a very weird experience as you can see from the photos, i’m not sure if it was torture or pleasure, but I did go back three times!!  Went on a night tour up to the active Volcan Tungurahua in the attempt to watch some of the erruptions, when we got to the bellavista (viewpoint) it was so misty we could’t even see the Volcano, let alone it’s erruptions!!  I did however take a picture of the smouldering coals in the campfire we had and from then on, in my mind, that was Tungurahua’s lava!

   – Campfire (AKA Lava)

Down to Riobamba for the Devils Nose train ride through the mountains which actually wasn’t running all the way, so we ended up stopping before the best bit – the mountains & the Devil’s Nose! 

Further south again to Guyaquill and to prepare for my Galapagos trip which I am really looking forward to. Thank god it was only one night in Guyaquill though. Not somewhere I will be coming back to in a hurry! Not a good place for single white women with blonde hair!!! There is absolulely nothing to do here, avoid it like the plague if you can! Bring on Galapagos.

 The Inca Trail & Machu Picchu

First stop on the Inca Trail adventure was Saqsaywuaman, a bit dissapointing but good views over Cusco. Then we stopped at a Llama farm which was actually really interesting. I didnt know that LLamas and Alpacas are from the same family as camels. As well as feeding the Llamas we also got to see the process they use to dye the wool and how they weave it etc to make all the products from it.

Next stop was just a good viewpoint to get photos of the Sacred valley although I found the young girl with a pet dog to be a much better photo!!!

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 Eco Amazonia Jungle Lodge

So we set off from La Paz for Puno on 29th April, stopped at Copacabana, on the edge of Lake Titicaca for lunch, the food was terrible, not what I needed when recovering from the hangover from hell!!

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Vina del Mar – really wish I knew how to turn these damn photos round on here!!!

So the 14 hour bus journey was as uncomfortable as ever, but the views coming into Mendoza were amazing, it was so flat but the Andes were in the distance and it just felt like we were driving right into this huge mountain range.

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The final encounter of our group

Nowhere else was ever going to live up to the sights at Iguassu so the next few stops were a little tedious. First was San Ignacio and the Jesuit Ruins. There was not much to do here so spent most of our time playing cards and getting beaten by the Irish, cheers Cathy & John you taught me some good cheats!!

Jesuit Ruins, San Ignacio

Next Salto and it´s hot springs and weird sand club, quite an amusing night, Cathy and John providing much of the entertainment rolling around in the sand so drunk they couldnt get up. Again other than this not much to do so we were not happy when Pablo told us we couldn´t get on the bus to Montivideo that day so we had to do another uncomfortable overnight bus journey and miss our night in Montivideo. Oh well, probably just as well as I was still quite hungover from the night before and my whole body ached after falling down the marble stairs so at least I had all day to recover!

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Kate and I at Iguassu!

WOW

I have never seen anything quite as amazing in my life. They are so huge and after visiting the Brazillian side, the Argentinian Side, doing a helicopter ride over them, a speedboad ride in them, walking through the rainforest (and boy did it rain!), abseiling down a small waterfall in the rainforest and zipwiring through the rainforest I feel I know the area quite well!!

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The group on boat trip in Paraty

So met everyone in our group on the Tuesday night and everyone seemed okay but was too nackered to go out drinking with anyone so just had a quiet night ready to set off to Paraty the next morning.

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