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Inbetween Galapagos & Panama

Thursday, May 4th, 2006

So I arrived in Guyaquill fine, although very sad after saying goodbye to my Samba companions, and thought I would give the city another go as I was still in such a good mood after Galapagos, I thought nothing could be as bad as I remembered it!

After walking 2 blocks I was already annoyed at all the stares, shouts and kisses so ducked into the 1st internet cafe I saw.  3 Hours later I had only managed to upload around 50 photos and had a numb bum from sitting on the uncomfy chair for so long.  Realising I was actually pretty hungry I decided to walk down to the Malecon 2000 for some 5* cuisine (In Guyaquill Macdonalds is classed as 5*cuisine as it is the only thing that looks even remotely edible) I didnt even make it that far.  Luckily for me I spotted a Macdonalds even closer so quickly sought sanctuary in there.

Afterwards I walked a different was back to my hotel in an unsuccessful search of a better internet cafe, by the time I arrived back I was actually quite thankful that my returned ear infection had rendered me almost completely deaf in my right ear because if I had heard just one more comment of belissima or guapa it would have been highly likely that I would flip – probably resulting in me spending the night somewhere much worse than my hotel.

I was absolutely shattered and very hot and sweaty by this point so decided to call it a day and get a good nights sleep – only 7.30pm as well  (we would have just finished dinner this time yesterday).  I woke up at 9pm (which I soon remembered was actually 10pm as Ecuador is an hour ahead of Galapagos and I had forgotten to change my watch) even hotter and sweatier than when I went to bed, really wishing I had paid the $2 extra for air con instead of the almost useless ceiling fan which only succeeded to annoy me by the constant squeaking.  The guy next doors TV was blaring out and by the sound of the noises he was making he certainly wouldnt have had any problems with a foggy snorkel – nice!!!

I was quite glad that there was only cold water and felt a little better after a cold shower, I filled my ears full of ear drops and cotton wool – partly to help the infection and partly to drown out the guy next door, and went back to sleep.  The shower and ear drop process was repeated 3 times throughout the night and I still woke up at 6am.  Not wanting to reenter the city of stares, I busied myself with any un-interesting task to pass the morning until by 9.30 I was starving so decided to try a recommended eatery; el toro asado.  On arrival after many more stares and shouts, it looked dodgy as hell and was closed anyway – back to Macdonalds it was.  The closest one was also closed (why is it nowhere but England do Macdonalds open early and have a breakfast menu – not that I ever go there of course!!!) so onwards I went along the Malecon 2000 to the 2nd Macdonalds which was also closed, but looked like it was about to open so decided to sit and wait as I hadn’t seen anywhere else that looked like I could eat without getting food poisoning (how I wished I had Freddie {Samba chef} with me to russel up some fine salad sculptures!). 

As I sat down this odd looking bloke said “hey, how you doin” I was suprised and pleased at the same time – the first English speaker I had met in Guyaquill.  He was a short older guy, with a pinstripe suit and his hair all slicked back.  He had worked for the American Embassy in Guyaquill for 4 years now – I didnt care, I was just happy to have even this strange old man to talk to.  It did make more sense when he told me his parents were from Italy, and I realised thats what he looked like – someone out of one of the Italian Mafia films!!!

So a Big Mac later, another hour wasted in the Internet cafe and it was back to the hotel and a taxi to the airport – thank god, my last few hours in this god forsaken town!!  The dumb ass taxi driver obviously thought I liked walking in the heat with my 22k backpack (its gone down a kilo sinse last time – yey) and dropped me off at arrivals instead of departures – muppet!

The flight left early (thats a first – and luckily I was there in time!!) and I was not sad to leave Guyaquill behind.  The usual ham and cheese sarnie on the plane, although I was very pleased that it was also accompanied by some Lays (almost as good as Walkers) crisps.  Arrived in Panama, it was very hot and humid, the taxi to the hostel I found on the internet earlier today took about half an hour and Panama City looked a lot bigger than I expected.  Also a lot more westernised, with Hard Rock cafe´s, nice looking restaurants, Subway, Macdonalds (dont think I will be having another for a while), pretty churches etc etc.  Im looking forward to having some adventures here! 

Ecuador

Monday, April 24th, 2006

View of Quito 

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I have fallen in love with another country – Ecuador is amazing and I have not even seen half of it.  There is so much to do here, from Volcanoes to canyons, bridge jumping to white water rafting, bike riding, horse riding, quad bike riding and even weird religious festivals that look like the purple klu klux clan!!!

I flew from Lima to Quito with Kate – a much less uneventfull flight than the last!  Then 3 nights in Quito with Kate, which quickly changed to 5 nights and I still hadnt had time to do everything I wanted to.

Climbed Guagua Pinchincha Volcano, the nearest one to Quito, just 9k’s away, and when I say climbed I mean climbed – it reminded me a bit of when someone talked me into climbing Snowdon – the hard route – Crib Goch, but with added snow & altitude and even more difficult. It is 4800mtrs high but we started at 4200mtrs, well the first bit is just boring!!! The last 200mtrs were the hardest climbing in the snow, but it was worth it (even though we couldn’t see the crater for all the mist) when we were sat at the top drinking mugs of soup and dipping bread, looking back at where we had just come from.

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Went to Otavalo Market for the day, which is a really cool little town with a huge market. Mainly the same stuff you get in every market in South America with the exception of roasted pigs heads – yes really! I couldnt resist this beautiful handpainted picture although I am regretting it now as I have to carry it round everywhere carefully without messing it up – quite difficult when travelling! I’m actually suprised I havent left it anywhere yet.

Otavala Square, Market, and Pigs Head – a local delicacy obviously judging from the number of these available here!!

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Watched the Good Friday procession – part of Santa Semana, very bizarre, lots of people dressed like the purple Klu Klux Clan carrying huge wooden crosses and wipping each other with chains!

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Next was Latacunga with Jorge and two lovely tour guides.  Was a very bizarre day, from the guides to the comida tipica (local food) of choclos – looks like corn on the cob but tastes like chalk, some weird giant beans, cheese from god knows what animal and nectar of peach juice – yummy scrummy!!!  To the mule ride back up from the crater lake cos I was too lazy to walk!! Lago Quilitoa was amazing, the water was such a gorgeous colour, it was like staring at a real life postcard.

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Stopped at a local bar on the way back – very local & also very cool!!

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Then off to Banos for some white water rafting, bike riding, thermal spa baths and a bit more walking.  It was amazing here even though it was really touristy, I could quite happily come back and work here for a while, well I could if I could improve my spanish anyway!!!  The best hostel yet, definately recommended to anyone thinking of coming to Ecuador – Plantas y blanca, fantastic! There is also a spa room on the top floor, it is a very weird experience as you can see from the photos, i’m not sure if it was torture or pleasure, but I did go back three times!!  Went on a night tour up to the active Volcan Tungurahua in the attempt to watch some of the erruptions, when we got to the bellavista (viewpoint) it was so misty we could’t even see the Volcano, let alone it’s erruptions!!  I did however take a picture of the smouldering coals in the campfire we had and from then on, in my mind, that was Tungurahua’s lava!

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SSCN4826.JPG SSCN4827.JPG SSCN4829.JPG – Campfire (AKA Lava)

Down to Riobamba for the Devils Nose train ride through the mountains which actually wasn’t running all the way, so we ended up stopping before the best bit – the mountains & the Devil’s Nose! 

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Further south again to Guyaquill and to prepare for my Galapagos trip which I am really looking forward to. Thank god it was only one night in Guyaquill though. Not somewhere I will be coming back to in a hurry! Not a good place for single white women with blonde hair!!! There is absolulely nothing to do here, avoid it like the plague if you can! Bring on Galapagos.