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October 20, 2004

Special Report

OCTOBER 20, 2004, The One Year Anniversary since The Trip began... and I almost didn't make it. Last night, high in the Himalayas of Nepal, I was almost pronounced dead.

Cause Of Death (would have been): high altitude pulmonary edema, high altitude cerebral edema
Time Of Death (would have been): around 8 p.m. (Nepal time)


I AM ONLY ALIVE writing this because of the efforts of five Sherpas, three English (especially two named Eddie and Kenny), two Australians (especially one named Stewart), a yak and a horse, who carried me on a long 7-hour, 5-mile trek down from 5200m. ASL to Dr. Mike and Dr. Linda of the Himalayan Rescue Association at 4200m. ASL. (The last 90 minutes of that trek was in the dark!)

My guide Tilak could not help out because his condition was worse than mine and had been carried down earlier. Strange how we both got so sick; we had only ascended as fast as other people we'd met on the way. Altitude sickness is a funny thing; it varies so much from person to person.


I AM WRITING THIS back in the lower altitude of Kathmandu (1200m. ASL) after a night on an oxygen regulator at the Himalayan Rescue Clinic. I was flown down this afternoon in an emergency helicopter, which hopefully my travel insurance will cover. (At over $3000 USD, it still must be debated when I get back home.)

The important thing is I'm fine now, after narrowly escaping death. I will continue the slow and steady recuperation process in my hotel room in Kathmandu with a night caretaker sent by the Himalayan Glacier travel agency. Details to come in the next coming entries...

Due to my weakened condition, I apologize in advance if I can't get to all the postcards I promised to send out of Nepal. I'll try my best, but the messages may be short and/or repetitive.

Anyway, when you're out celebrating the One Year Anniversary of The Global Trip 2004, please make sure you raise a glass (or whatever it is you have in front of you) and toast the men, women and animals who saved my life!


THIS CONCLUDES THIS THEGLOBALTRIP.COM SPECIAL REPORT...


(Get Well comments welcomed and appreciated.)



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Posted by Erik on October 20, 2004 08:38 PM
TrackBack | Category: Nepal
Comments

oh my god!!!! i am glad you are ok. i hope you are resting some more. that must have been scary. you take it easy. i want to see you back here in nyc when the trip ends, in one piece. we will have a huge celebration. and HAPPY ONE YEAR to you!!!!

Posted by: alice on October 20, 2004 11:54 AM

oh deer. ..and what ever Alice just said.

Posted by: LovePenny on October 20, 2004 12:00 PM

there is a bug in your post.... DEAR. gonna have to get Q.A. on your ass. =P

Posted by: alice on October 20, 2004 12:02 PM

Erik,

"NAUUUUGHRAT"

-Fish Guy

Posted by: The Yelling Fish Guy from Hong Kong on October 20, 2004 12:04 PM

Hope that made you laugh, man. We're thinking about you and hope you recover quickly. Get rest and glad to hear you're OK.

Posted by: Moe on October 20, 2004 12:06 PM

Wow! What a way to ring in the anniversary! This is the first time I'm commenting on the blog, I wanted to wish you a full, speedy recovery. (I was going to comment about that enourmous mound of hot peppers with chicken flavor from a while back but didn't get around to it.) I can't imagine what you were going through, but you made it, and with some rest and recovery you'll be back on your feet in no time! I hope your guide is doing well, since you mentioned his condition was more grave. We'll be raising a pint glass or two for you. Cheers!

Posted by: Rob on October 20, 2004 12:11 PM

JESUS! NO more HIGH ALTITUDES please!

Be safe, get better, there is more to see and do and of course write about...

Posted by: markyt on October 20, 2004 12:12 PM

So glad that you are okay!! Hope your road to recovery is much smoother and faster than the trip down from the Himalayas. You're one brave soul---be safe in the many more adventures to come!

Posted by: Steph Angud on October 20, 2004 12:26 PM

YES please be safe!!!! unless this is a publicity stunt for the book??? (or do i watch too much Law and Order)

I'm glad to hear you had a guardian angel that day. take care! N: )

Posted by: nikkij on October 20, 2004 12:29 PM

deathly ill, i'm sure Erik took some pictures of himself!....

Posted by: markyt on October 20, 2004 12:33 PM

oh man,

yeah enough with the high altitutude for now...get home safe b. damn. good looks to those sherpas and the other peeps that helped you. get well and continue with the global trip!!!

Posted by: wheat on October 20, 2004 12:49 PM

WHAT????!!! HIGH ALTITUDE CEREBRIC EDEMA??? WHAT???!!! BUT YOU'RE OKAY NOW???

YEAAAAAHHH!!!!

Posted by: L'il Jon on October 20, 2004 12:52 PM

MARKYT: i totally agree, there MUST be pictures somewhere, i can see it now... ERIK ERIK are you ok??? [erik] *gasp* *gasp* where's my camera???

Posted by: nikkij on October 20, 2004 12:53 PM

Oh man---
I'm glad you are safe and on your way to recovery. It's October in the Himalayas!! Your crazy man. I am cold here in the middle of the day. Well glad you survived the ordeal and have a good (but scary) story to tell. Get well soon...

Posted by: dhaval on October 20, 2004 01:03 PM

Hi Erik, get well soon!!!!! I'm very glad you are okay. Take care. Recupérate pronto, saludos desde México.

Posted by: Arabela on October 20, 2004 01:14 PM

Erik - Belated Happy Bday...Happy 1 Year Anniversary and Get well soon!!!

keep resting and don't worry about postcards and writing...etc...just get better!

Posted by: stephanie on October 20, 2004 01:16 PM

erik, take care. get well soon. take it easy and be safe. thank god you're okay. man, you really know how to scare people. oh yeah, and happy anniversary.

Posted by: Cheryl on October 20, 2004 01:23 PM

Get well EriK & take it easy ... hate to say I told you so but dang .. after 30 bro .. its down hill ... CHEERS! to a quick recovery & to your guardian angels on the mountain; NO falling sign, NO Russian Mafia, Hell !!! NO MOUNTAIN ! will stop the GLOBAL TRIP !!!

Posted by: simf2p on October 20, 2004 01:24 PM

See! I told you not to go to Nepal :-)

Get well soon, take some time off.

Damn Maoist high altitude pulmonary edemas.

Posted by: tjw on October 20, 2004 01:28 PM

And since no one else probably will, I will raise a glass to that yak. Its always the yaks that get left out.

Posted by: tjw on October 20, 2004 01:34 PM

Get well and take care!! Keep trekking on....

Posted by: Yvette on October 20, 2004 01:38 PM

TJW - i'll put one up for the yak too! the horse and to kindest of all the people on the trek down and at the clinic!

i guess that means that's alotta glasses...

Posted by: markyt on October 20, 2004 01:47 PM

Sorry I haven't posted in awhile ERIK. Take your time and get well. No more special reports (not unless its a murtinho nobre sighting).

Posted by: Paul on October 20, 2004 02:13 PM

Feel better soon Erik! I'm glad you're allright. Happy year anniversary too. You've come a long way since Ecuador. I've enjoyed every post you've written! Not to get all dark on you, but I lost an uncle six years ago to mountain-climbing. It's a lot more dangerous than people think.

I will definitely toast to you and all the yaks of the Himalayas!

Posted by: sara on October 20, 2004 02:25 PM

Hey Erik! I'm glad that you are ok now. Take it easy and rest up good...What a way to spend your one year anniversary---but this reminds me of one of those convos we had back in the day about how life is... and how you must enjoy it and make the most of it. Anyway...happy anniversay AND Happy (Belated) Birthday! (I didn't forget) So be Double Bless and I am praying for your speedy recovery. All the best.

~1~
PS Hurry and get back on the road..I need something to occupy my time at work! hehehe...

Posted by: Don (Rutgers-NWK) on October 20, 2004 02:30 PM

rik get better man.. we gotta do carbombs when you get back, so hurry your ass!

Posted by: Francis on October 20, 2004 02:46 PM

Damn - I was so worried about Maoist rebels that I never thought that the f-ing MOUNTAIN would be what got you. You made it to 5200m - holy crap, that's over THREE MILES UP! High altitudes can be murder (no pun intended) if you're not used to them - we're all glad you're safe now. Rest up - you deserve it.
Hey, if you're stuck in your room being sick does this mean even MORE pictures of the toilet? Awesome!

Posted by: dunlavey on October 20, 2004 02:46 PM

Lots of "get all well very fast" wishes from me, too. Me being a SBR and Global Trip 2004 fan:)
Have just the cure for you- come to Maui!Sun's out, surf's up, and...full-on trade winds. So ditch the oxygenator and high altitudes, and melllow into a little island life.
Aloha, Lynn

Posted by: Lynn on October 20, 2004 03:43 PM

Erik, man, glad you are ok. Make sure you are fully rested and well before taking off again... be well.

Posted by: Liz on October 20, 2004 09:06 PM

Man,

You just can't do that to me... I click on a whim... and bam, a special report. You better get well soon, cause when you get back, we're gonna kick your ass. Drinks up to all your rescuers! Big up the yak and horse... and happy anniversary and belated b-day. Enough with the special reports.

Duaine

Posted by: Duaine on October 20, 2004 09:13 PM

Get Well! Get Well! Get Well!

Posted by: Aviva on October 20, 2004 09:24 PM

Ok man, that's not cool...I go to read your latest post, and I see a "Special Report"?!??! Whoa whoa whoa and whoa!!!!!
Please god take care of yourself and be more careful....please please.
Hapy One Year Anniversary and Yeah we'll play Metal Gear Solid 4 or 8 when you get back....whoa man....take it easy (The other Moe)

Posted by: Moe on October 20, 2004 09:31 PM

oh no!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yikes!! GET WELL SOON!! glad you're okay!

(i'm jealous)

Posted by: elaine on October 20, 2004 09:36 PM

Erik: Wow - what you have been through since your last entry! So glad you are safe and sound. Your mother must be having a fit worrying about you!!! Take care, rest up before heading out again and be safe! (Geesh, now "I" sound like your mother!) LOL

Posted by: Janice on October 20, 2004 10:41 PM

WTF man? Your supposed to be like invincible!

Posted by: Bill on October 20, 2004 10:49 PM

Many, huge, hopefully heartwarming get well wishes from a former SBR. Man, I am raising my morning mug of Costa Rica coffee to all those people and animals that saved your life. Actually, I think I will have a second serving...

(btw, does that all mean that you spent your 30th bday at the oxygen regulator at the Himalayan Rescue Clinic? now that can make for a good story for the grandchildren too...)

Posted by: Lets on October 20, 2004 10:59 PM

Wow.....what a comeback! After days of silence you sure shocked us all. Take care...rest..and in no time (hopefully) you will back on your feet and the road.

Posted by: Rose on October 20, 2004 11:24 PM

I guess Everest doesn't like Americans!

Seriously though... Get well soon Erik! I thought that after Kili you'd be fine for Base Camp... What happend?

Posted by: Td0t on October 21, 2004 12:19 AM

FAST FACTS on latitude and longitude on Mt. Everest and Mt. Kilimanjaro:

Mt. Everest - 28 N and 87 E
Mt. Kilimanjaro - 3 S and 37 E

So I'm guessing climbing Mt. Everest in October would be much colder and brutal compared to climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro in May.

Posted by: markyt on October 21, 2004 12:39 AM

THANKS for the overwhelming support! I'm still in Kathmandu, where I'll rest up for the next six days. I still feel a little weak, but the strength will come in time. Dr. David (from Michigan) at the Nepal International Clinic here says I'll be fine.

Soon I'll be all healthy and back to normal -- so I can go get mugged again! Ha ha...


THANKS AGAIN for the support... keep 'em coming! :)

Posted by: Erik TGT on October 21, 2004 12:44 AM

Oh, man... my heart sank when I glanced at the "cause of death" in bold letters. My God, I am so glad you are ok now! I hope that you recover completely soon! I will pray for you.

On the light side of the matter, at least you have some scintillating new material now!

I am so relieved to know that you are doing ok.. I was a yes-Nepal voter.. have you any idea how guilty I would feel for the rest of my life?

Feel better soon.

Nicci

Posted by: Nicole on October 21, 2004 12:58 AM

Get well Erik..am sure you're Parents are concerned. Take care.

Posted by: TITO PEPITO on October 21, 2004 01:29 AM

Get well Erik..am sure your Parents are concerned. Take care.

Posted by: TITO PEPITO on October 21, 2004 01:30 AM

Yo Erik! You are one crazy SOB! We got dizzy running up to 4000m in peru and that was a dinger! Let me guess, you and your guide played that tent stake game, didn't ya? :)

Glad you're ok and recuperating! And a Big Happy Anniversary! And as they say in Boston, We (your blog readers) believe!!

Catch you soon!

Posted by: oogy on October 21, 2004 02:44 AM

Erik,

Heard from Moe & Aviva that everyone (including the fish guy) was wishing you well after your adventure that nearly turned into a disaster.

Glad to hear that you made it out okay & get well soon.

Meg

Posted by: Meg on October 21, 2004 03:14 AM

woah.. nice way to get all of us SBR out of the woodwork...
seriously though, its good to see that you're ok after all that. best wishes for a speedy recovery dude!

Posted by: kerryn on October 21, 2004 08:45 AM

Hey Erik.
Get well soon & Happy belated aniversary!

Posted by: Rina on October 21, 2004 08:54 AM

Damn you for making an SBR come out and post!

Glad you're doing better! But make sure that the big 4-0 is nice and boring, okay?

Posted by: heide on October 21, 2004 09:03 AM

Woah, Eric, you gave us quite a fright!
Take it easy, eh? Enough excitement for the time being.

Get well soon, our thoughts are with you.

Denni

Posted by: denni on October 21, 2004 09:16 AM

Too early in the morning for bad news!

I'm happy you are recovering and hope you are on your feet soon!

I raised my coffee to the Yak this morning!

Get Well!

Posted by: Lisa on October 21, 2004 09:43 AM

GEEZ

You will be one to go out in a blaze of glory, that's for sure! But don't let it happen for another 60 or 70 years!

All the best Erik,
Rest, relax, and regain your strength.

Posted by: James in TO on October 21, 2004 10:32 AM

I have had altitude sickness there as well. Just rest at low altitudes and you'll feel better soon. Take care and just pace yourself.

Posted by: Lee on October 21, 2004 10:53 AM

Erik: Really glad to hear that you are OK. We were all expecting a lively 1 year anniversary entry, but this is ridiculous! But seriously, I am very glad to hear that you are well on your way to a full recovery and further (non-life threatening) adventures on TGT 2004. Thank God for fellow travellers and yaks with strong backs!

If you are interested in another near heart stopping experience, take a look at what happened at Yankee stadium last night. (BTW, I'm not a RS fan nor am I from Boston, but its pretty unbelievable stuff).

Wishing you all the best from Costa Rica!

Posted by: James on October 21, 2004 10:54 AM

man I'm glad you could make it!

I hope you get well soon and continue your trip coz is like an addiction I have while at the office.

get well soon and take care!!!!

Posted by: Joy on October 21, 2004 11:09 AM

What on earth... so glad to hear you're doing ok. Definitely need more details when you're feeling up to it. You're really lucky you were with such experienced people to recognize that it was more than just mild altitude sickness. Take care of yourself!!! Get well and keep writing.

Posted by: Robin Freni on October 21, 2004 12:57 PM

GET WELL SOON!! Take it easy. Glad to hear that you're OK. Don't push yourself.

Happy Birthday again and Happy Anniversary!!

Posted by: Risa on October 21, 2004 02:26 PM

OMG!
I'll raise 100 glasses if it will help you get better!

HAPPY ONE YEAR CRAZY MAN!!!!!

take care of yourself and please, PLEASE be careful!!!

Posted by: Dtella on October 21, 2004 02:41 PM

WHOA DUDE!!

Geez. Glad you made it back out there alive. Yeah, altitude sickness is a funny thing eh? It's funny how some people will only get a headache while others must be evacuated out (like yourself).

Well, keep your head up, stay safe, and keep on trekkin'!! The Moster shall have a drink in your honor as soon as get over this hangover from Tom and Jerrys, last night...

Word Life!!

Moman!!

Posted by: Moman on October 21, 2004 03:32 PM

BTW--perhaps you should've chosen the beaches of Thailand instead?

Word Life.

Moman!!

Posted by: Moman on October 21, 2004 03:37 PM

God, Eric, you don't want to be a travel writer that badly do you? :)

Take care of yourself. Know that most of the time we wish we'd be out travelling with you.

Carita

Posted by: Carita on October 21, 2004 05:28 PM

OH MY GOD!! I haven't written to you even though I've been reading your blog. I'm happy to read that you are recovering from this ordeal! Get well soon!!!

Posted by: Sarah in Montreal on October 21, 2004 08:31 PM

This has got to be a 2 day record for the amount of comments! SBRs and BHs are coming out of woodwork!

Posted by: Td0t on October 21, 2004 09:01 PM

This has got to be a 2 day record for the amount of comments! SBRs and BHs are coming out of woodwork!

Posted by: Td0t on October 21, 2004 09:02 PM

Well that's one way of getting attention!! And to think, the last time I saw you was at over 4000m in La Paz... what a difference 1000m makes! Get well soon & I wish both you & your guide a speedy recovery.

Posted by: Garb on October 21, 2004 09:04 PM

After happening upon your incredible blog for the first time tonight (I was a BV...blog virgin), and enjoying all of your October entries, I was taken aback with yesterday's entry! I'm happy to know that you will recover and live to blog another day! Feel well soon, happy belated birthday, happy anniversary and know you are in many's thoughts as we anticipate your future travels. Valete discipuli. Enjoy your journey....

Posted by: mitch on October 22, 2004 01:26 AM

Get well soon, and try to stay safe.
Happy re- birthday!

Posted by: Adrienne and Levente on October 22, 2004 05:49 AM

Hey Erik -
Glad to hear you're still alive and kicking! Happy belated Birthday and PLEASE take it easy for a few days! Wishing you all the best, including a speedy recovery.
Take care
Emma

Posted by: emma on October 22, 2004 10:13 AM

Yikes! Be careful!
So there is no instant messanger at Tiffany's THE WORLD HAS COME TO AN END!!!!

Posted by: El Zee on October 22, 2004 11:38 AM

COMMENT #69!!! Woohoo!!!

Posted by: markyt on October 22, 2004 12:01 PM

Cripes, just found this blog and become totally enthralled with your trip. Sorry to hear about your illness. May you have a speedy recovery.

Posted by: H on October 22, 2004 12:17 PM

Good lawd! I don't read for several days and then THIS?
SHEESH!!

Glad you're okay... altitude is skeery. But, you'll survive... and then go on to do more crazy things...

Rock on!!! Happy anniversary, birthday, coming down off the mountain safely, etc... Get better soon, enjoy the quiet.

Posted by: Noelle on October 22, 2004 01:56 PM

Jaysus - Moman just told me what happened. Hard to believe Claudia and I were just at Everest Base Camp (Tibetan side) back in May. We could barely breathe...

I'm glad you're all right, man, and I'll be toasting you, swift recovery, and every yak, angel, sherpa, oxygen bottle and bit of luck that got you through.

Posted by: Anthony on October 22, 2004 02:55 PM

When we were there, we saw little Chinese and Japanese chicks puking out their truck windows.

Be safe you numbnuts and feel better.

Posted by: Claudia on October 22, 2004 04:55 PM

Dude, ur a legend. I really enjoyed trekking the Great Wall with you, but the Himalayas just takes things to a whole new level, quite literally! Am sorry to hear about your most recent experience, but am glad to hear ur recovering. Happy 1 year, good luck with the Insurance Co. & have a great weekend ! Best wishes from London.

Posted by: Amit on October 22, 2004 08:58 PM

omigod erik!!!! jeez man you are not made of steel....I am SO glad you are safe and sound...please stay at sea level for awhile...THIS is why i prefer the beach to the mountains...my worst problem would be fatal sunburn...

oh man, i hope you are recovered soon...treat yourself to a nice hotel and a nice meal for a few days. the insurance company will cover the helicopter..just remember to have all the paperwork in order.

thinking good thoughts for you!
maria

Posted by: maria on October 23, 2004 06:27 PM

AW, sniff sniff... thanks for the support you guys!

Posted by: Erik TGT on October 24, 2004 06:09 AM

A WARM WELCOME TO ALL THE SBRs who broke the silence in this entry! So glad to hear from you -- finally!

Commenting this Blog is like eating Pringles; you can't just have one... Keep them comin', you're on a roll now! Remember, this ain't an exclusive club!

Posted by: Erik TGT on October 24, 2004 06:14 AM

oh my god erik! i am so glad you are ok!!! what would i do without a travel partner? who would i be meeting in front of the roman ruins of the great city of carthage next year??? or in front of the famed kasbah in marrakech??? or outside the gates of the alhambra??? so... once you get better, which one you wanna meet me at, say... sometime in early/mid-june? =) seriously, glad you're better.... and can't wait for your blog to be compiled into a published color-photo infused mega travel blog for sale at bookstores 'globally'

take care bud!!!
sam =)

p.s. thanks for *finally* paying me back for our hotel in moscow!!! hehe =P

Posted by: Sam! on October 27, 2004 10:18 AM

wow, erik. glad you're alright.


instead of drinking to all your sherpas and other heros, i'll try to read an entry for each one since i'm way too far behind.

Posted by: Alyson on October 29, 2004 01:54 AM


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