Americans in Kathmandu

DAY 358: "You look Nepali," said the hotel manager. So did the waiter in the garden restaurant and another guy. I think I was a novelty act for them: a guy that looked like they did but spoke in am American accent.

MY FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS that fine Monday morning was to visit the American embassy, and this time I mean the real one, not McDonald's. Hearing that New Jersey, the state I was registered to vote in (even overseas) had become a swing state in the all-important 2004 US presidential election, I wanted to apply for an absentee ballot. Three Nepali soldiers who were stationed outside the American compound greeted me.

"Is it open?" I asked.

"What do you want?"

"I'm just trying to find out about overseas ballots."

"What? You are American?"

"Yeah." Seemed hard to believe.

One soldier gave me a slip of paper with a printout on it saying the embassy was closed. A sign posted said public office hours on Monday started at 1 p.m. "Thanks, I'll come back."

On my way back into the touristy Thamel district (picture above), an American voice called to me. "Hey man! I thought it might be you, but I thought nah... but then I saw the shirt. Your hair's grown out a bit."

It was Paul, the American from Kansas who was my roommate way in the Beijing Gonti Hostel back in August. It was with him I had a conversation about fate and coincidence; funny us crossing paths again totally unplanned, at random in a different country. We caught up for a bit, standing there on the sidewalk under the Nepalese sun. Paul had followed me to Xi'an and then made way through Tibet and over into Nepal. He had just gotten back to Kathmandu after doing some trekking on the Annapurna circuit in the west, where he had a run in with armed Maoists patrolling the trails -- he shut his American mouth up and pretended to be some French guy's brother to avoid the American fees they collect by force (before giving a receipt).

Paul had been to the American embassy before and told me about the American government's position on matters in Nepal. With the Nepali/American tensions, they told him, "You're not even supposed to be here!" The US had already sent home the Peace Corps and all non-essential government employees. They had issued a travel advisory not to even think about going to Nepal. "Just down there," Paul pointed out to me, "was where [that American compound] was bombed three weeks ago."

Perhaps an American wasn't completely safe in Nepal after all, at least the ones that were "overly American" and stuck out, like government employees -- but for guys like us, we were Americans exercising the American right to travel. Kathmandu was legendary amongst travelers, especially American hippie types and the descendants thereof.

Paul and I split ways -- he was on his way to the Pakistani embassy this time for a visa -- but we made plans to meet up for dinner and drinks that night. Later on in the afternoon, I went back to the American embassy, but it was still closed. The "overly American" employees were celebrating the American holiday of Columbus Day.

WALKING AROUND KATHMANDU, I definitely didn't stick out as an obvious American, with my apparent Nepali-looking façade. I went for a walk around town, starting at the Rani Pokhari tank and temple, built by King Pratap Malla in memory of his dead son, and then down the crowded market road lined with market stalls and temples en route to Durbar Square, the heart of the old city. Weaving in and out of motorbikes and people scuttling around, I saw the Annapurna Temple in the busy Asan Tol plaza, which paid homage to Annapurna, the goddess of plentiful food; and the Akash Bhairab in the equally busy Indra Chowk plaza, with its distinctive metal gargoyles. Up north was Kathesimbhu, a stupa in the fashion of the bigger Swayambhunath one west of the city -- which had been victim to American-influenced graffiti.

Durbar Square, the former residential area of the royal family, is a big tourist draw as many of the buildings of political, social and religious significance remain there, all together in a big open plaza -- so much that it has been described as a "templescape." Near the northern area there was a 200-rupee fee for foreigners to walk in, but with my mouth shut, my cover remained intact and I just walked in without anyone saying anything.

I wandered passed the Taleju Temple, built by King Mahendra Mall to honor the deity Taleju; Kasthamandap, the 14th century temple for Hindu saint Gorakhnath of which the name "Kathmandu" is derived from; and the Hanuman Dhoka Durbar, the former royal palace. I made way to the bazaar at Basantapur Square, where vendors sold all sorts of Nepalese trinkets. Nearby was Freak Street, the former hippie haven that had lost all its popularity over time to the Thamel district up north where my hotel was.

Probably the most visited temple in Durbar Square was the Maju Dewal, not because it was a temple dedicated to the god Shiva, but because with its ten-level easy-to-climb pyramid design, it was easy to get a view of the happenings in Durbar Square below. With that said, it was known as the prime target for touts to approach guys sitting around. One young guy who called himself "Mr. K" (and had a "K" ring on his left middle finger to prove it) saw that I might not be Nepali after all -- anyone sitting on the so-called "Hippie Hill" was either a tout he knew of already or a tourist -- and he tried desperately to get business from me, either as my city tour guide, trail guide or hash dealer. I declined and then got out of there before word got around that I was American after all.

I MET FELLOW AMERICAN PAUL in front of the Kathmandu Guest House in the heart of the Thamel district and from there we met up with two guys he had been trekking with (whose names I forgot) from France and Switzerland. The first order of the night was to make final call for drinks at one lounge's Happy Hour, and we started things off with a shot.

"Just like the American girl in the beginning of Raiders of the Lost Ark," I said to Paul, stamping down the glass onto the table.

Whether in the movies or real life, the fact remained: Americans were in Nepal whether or not the American embassy liked it or not. When we went out to an Italian restaurant for dinner (one of many kinds of international cuisines available in Kathmandu), I didn't know what the embassy's big hang up was over; I mean, as far as I could see there was no violence, and besides, the pizza in Nepal was pretty good.

If you enjoy this daily travel blog, please post a comment! Give me suggestions, send me on missions, let me know how things are going back home in the USA. Knowing that I have an audience will only force me to make this blog more entertaining as the days go by. Don´t forget to bookmark it and let a friend know!

Posted by Erik on October 14, 2004 06:25 PM
TrackBack | Category: Nepal

THERE YOU GO, four more before I head up to Everest Base Camp. I figured I might as well post them before I go and justify the fact that I lugged my laptop up the Himalayas for two days on foot.

Anyway, this is most likely my last internet session before I leave Namche Bazar to head up to EBC.

Make sure all you celebrate for me! Oh, and get this, because of leap year, my birthday is "Day 365."

MARKYT: Go ahead and QA and make corrections.

OOGY: Himalayas > Andes! When you're off your high of designing the new American Express card -- yes, this is gratuitous praise -- you MUST trek over here!

Posted by: Erik TGT on October 14, 2004 09:37 AM

Wow...what a great surprise! I was psyching myself up for blog withdrawl and to my surprise more!...keep up the great writing with so many of us enjoying it. Enjoy your trek and birthday! Keep Safe! Happy Birthday!

Posted by: Rose on October 14, 2004 11:21 AM

Hi Erik, it's another one of your minor guest stars joining the fray. I really enjoyed reading about Japan and was so surprised to learn that there is now something to do in Mitaka, which is where I spent a year studying so long ago. If I had voted, I would have said Nepal, so glad to hear that you are there and that all is fine. And when you go to India, the most impressive thing that I saw was the Infosys campus...you might be able to use your "press" credentials to get behind the gates and get the tour. It's eery how much like it is to Silicon Valley, but so obviously not. Or is that just too boring for your glob-trotting self?

Life in HK continues on in its cubicle way, although I escaped to Cambodia for a weekend, which was well worth it.

Have fun! Meg

Posted by: Meg on October 14, 2004 12:31 PM

FRIDAY, 15 OCT 2004, 7:28 a.m. Nepal Time... Okay, THIS is my last internet session... Just wanted to check e-mail before the four day trek to EBC, which begins as soon as I log off...

Those wishing to get a postcard from the Everest region who already aren't on the new mailing list, get those pledges and donations in!

Posted by: Erik TGT on October 14, 2004 10:37 PM

I'm trying to make some math and figure out when exactly is your Bday, Eric.
Help me out people! If it's a 4 day trek to the EBC and he'll get there on his bday then it should be the 18th...
Yeah, I'm not very bright right now.

Posted by: lets on October 14, 2004 11:10 PM

It's the 18th.

I can't wait for the Everest pics! This NIZ will be like waiting all summer to find out who shot Mr. Burns... or J.R. depending on what era you're from.

Posted by: Td0t on October 15, 2004 12:52 AM

MarkyT: Unlike Erik, I only write when I feel like it... so my next 9-5er peice will be when I'm inspired to write it.

Could be today because I think they're starting with the jackhammers again!

Posted by: Td0t on October 15, 2004 11:14 AM

Nepal! Glad to see you're out there. One of my homies is running around there right now. Name's Jeff, works for a touring company that takes peeps up to Everest Base Camp.

Keep on keepin' on!

Word Life.

Moman!!

Posted by: Moman on October 15, 2004 12:33 PM

TdOt - the jackhammers are going near my house too... early in the morning when for once I have a Satruday off (ie could have slept in). I'm only inspired to go and beat someone ;)

Posted by: Liz on October 15, 2004 10:06 PM

thanx markyt!

E: You're right, Kathmandu looks pretty much the norm... everyone going about their business and taking in life. Can't wait for the pics of the Himalayas. I'm sure they'll be breathtaking.. hey, if you can see those suckers from space...

Hope you had a great birthday and some local, exotic pastry with candle to celebrate with!

Posted by: oogy on October 16, 2004 03:41 AM

Wow! You've lived more in one year that most people do in their lifetimes..and still you keep on going! I just wanted to write you a note and say HAPPY HAPPY SUPER BIRTHDAY AND THE CHAIR! I think that I am late, but since you're on international time, I kinda think that it'll be your birthday until next week our time. Anyway I just wanted to wish you a happy one..and the chair!

Posted by: Moelicious on October 18, 2004 12:13 AM

Erik-
Happy 30th, I'll be there next July whether I like it or not.

Good hanging out with you in Tokyo, I was so sick and had zero energy.

We're in Korea and although it's much different than Japan, it's great. They don't call the Koreans the Irish of the East for nothing, but people just come up to you and start having a conversation and invite you out for drinks... very un-Japanese indeed.

Where will you be November 4-11? Melissa has business back in the 'states and was curious where you'll be?

Drop me an email when you can-

John

Posted by: SZLACHTA on October 18, 2004 02:01 AM

Hey Mr. E
Do email and let me know when you will land in India (Do not email on dustyshoes address but on the other one which i sent across). This is cause I will be travelling - work related - and all our offices all over India have "firewalled" yahoo, ditto for the guest houses where I will be staying.
Hope to be able to meet you.

Posted by: Dusty on October 18, 2004 03:13 AM

Happy Birthday Erik.....30, been there done that.....I do appreciate you doing so much more for your 30th than I did!

Happy Anniversary to you to, I am still reading the archives and I just made it past Day 100.....I think I will be reading forever!

Stay Safe!

Posted by: Lisa on October 18, 2004 09:33 AM

THIRTEEYARTEE!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MAN! DAMN, CELEBRATING YOUR BDAY IN NEPAL...THAT'S DEF. BETTER THAN GERONIMOS...WOOHOO! ILL DRINK A RED DEVIL TONITE IN YOUR HONOR!

WHEAT

Posted by: wheat on October 18, 2004 10:28 AM

show them your big 3-0 face!

haha...dood, when you get back to bootleg land, go pick Team America on dvd/vcd!!! haven't seen it just yet, but just do it!!

WHEAT - where you doing that drink tonite?

Posted by: markyt on October 18, 2004 11:56 AM

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!!
FELIZ ANIVERSÁRIO!!!!
¡Los CUMPLEAÑOS FELICES!!!
JOYEUX ANNIVERSAIRE!!!!
GLÜCKLICHER GEBURTSTAG!!!!
IL COMPLEANNO FELICE!!!!
GELUKKIGE VERJAARDAG!!!!
GLAD FØDSELSDAG!!!!

hope you have a grrrrrreat b-day!!!

(i’m jealous)

Posted by: elaine on October 18, 2004 12:33 PM

Dude, be careful out there! I research US-foreign relations a whole lot, and let me tell you, there are lots of US-gov't warnings about travelling abroad right now; we're not very popular people. But, at least you can blend in--can't say the same for your bud, Paul, though. Hope your money never runs out and you continue travelling/writing! Take care!

Posted by: Tony on October 18, 2004 11:40 PM

wow . .. you write a lot and often!

I just watched your slide show and was amazed . .. . I've been trying to keep up with your blog, but, alas, I have a life somewhere besides only the world wide web . . . .

anyway, congraz on being on the road for 12 long (but incredible, yes? :) months! It is my dream to someday do something very similar to what you are doing (but in a different order), and you are an inspiration to me .. . . now, back to reading about Europe . . .! Peace.

(BTW, I'm from Calgary (1988 Winter Olympics), Canada)

Posted by: steph on October 20, 2004 07:48 AM