I didn't like Singapore the first time I was there. Coming from six months in China, Thailand and Malaysia, it seemed soulless and fake, a plastic Disneyland of a city. I scorned the too-clean streets and swanky shops, believing the people had sold out, swapping culture and democratic rights for the opportunity to make money as a rich people's playground.

Well, I don't know whether the five years since then have changed me, or if it was just the effect of coming from India, but this time I loved Singapore with all my capitalist heart. I rejoiced at being able to drink water from a tap, walk down spotless streets without being hassled or gawped at, and know that there would be no maggots or cockroaches crawling in the toilet. I was wrong about the lack of culture, too - I spent a wonderful afternoon at the Art Gallery, looking at fingerpaintings and interactive technological exhibits (you could build a virtual garden by using a weird looking stick - clearly, I didn't get the hang of the technology side of things, but it was fun). I wandered along the Esplanade past the Merlion and the durian-shaped theatre, and goggled the wealthy guests at the Raffles Hotel. When I went to buy a ticket back to my hotel on the ultra-efficient MRT, I found I didn't have enough money. I explained my predicament to the man in the booth and asked where I could get a bus instead. To my surprise and gratitude, he promptly got out his wallet and gave me the 60 cents I needed. What a fantastic country!