I'm steeling myself to write about our encounter with the Taj Mahal. It seems difficult, though, as that was several days ago, and every day in between has been filled with the usual travel detritus - long train journeys, touts, haggling, looking for accommodation and a bite to eat.

When the electricity is on (as now), whatever internet cafe is at hand is filled with loud noise and the smell of cow manure - but often, the power's just not available at all.

None of this is conducive to blogging. Just getting a scrap of time and a viable internet connection is hassle enough.

But I DREAD the thought of this turning into some dead-space page where I recount things long-ago said and done. I'd prefer it to be fresh and relevant to where we're at ...

... so please bear with me through the typos and the non-sequiteurs. Just remember it was all typed in the heady whirl of diesel fumes and animal faeces and lots and lots of fantastically irritating chanting!