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It Could Have Been Worse…

Monday, September 29th, 2008

Well….we made it to Lima…after a 12 hour bus ride from Quito – Huaquillas (they said it would take 9 hours), and a 19.5 bus ride from Tumbes – Lima… 31.5 hours on local bus transport.

Fred and I left Quito on Friday at 6:45 p.m. and arrived to the Peruvian border at Huaquillas at 7 a.m. We wouldn’t have known to get off the bus had some locals on our bus not pointed it out to us. A friendly local guy was there right away, speaking english, and started picking up our bags and showing us where to go for the passport stamp, etc. He then hailed us a taxi to take us to the border (only $1 each) but he came with us too… We don’t mind tipping these locals a buck for their help but this guy was over the top. A better guide book at this point on this particular border crossing would have been much more helpful (we just had Foot Prints which is not as detailed in this regard as Lonely Planet).

Once we got out of the taxi to the “bridge crossing” we were swamped with money changers. We had been warned about changing money in Peru and brushed them off. Anyway, he walked with us across the border. It would have been difficult to find independently since the Sunday market was on and there were detours down back alleys and of course, no signs. Anyway, he then hooked us up with this independent taxi driver and another “guide” to take us to the border control for Peru (which was not right at the border, you have to drive for about 5 mins which is very weird), then take us 24 km to Tumbes. There was no lineup of yellow, metered taxis of course, only tuk tuks like in Bangkok so we agreed to this old beat up “collectivo”. The Ecuador guy said it would be 50 Soles (about $20 more or less, which we agreed to) the taxi man didn’t speak English, but another guy from Peru jumped in who spoke some English. They drove us to the passport place, then 24 km to Tombes to the bus depot. Enroute, he offered to stop at the bank machine ATM, which we wanted to because we had no Soles and everyone there wants to be paid in Soles. After the bank, then they wanted payment. Only now, the payment was 400 Soles!!! Can you imagine! Like $120 US! It was supposed to be 50 Soles! Needless to say, an argument ensued, only we are on some back alley street now, they have our luggage in the trunk, there are 2 of them, and they wouldn’t drive us to the bus depot because they said it is unsafe to show money transactions there. So we told them to take us to the police station then (to plead our case for this extortion) so of course they wouldn’t do that. It was the Peru guy in the passenger seat that was the real hustler who spoke some english. But not enough to really converse with and conveniently he couldn’t understand english and tried to make it out like we didn’t understand the agreement.

[read on]

Kapawi Eco Lodge

Saturday, September 27th, 2008

We returned yesterday from our 5 day jungle adventure at the Kapawi Eco Lodge. Although our fishing trip was relatively unsuccessful (well, Fred caught two 3″ puffer fish), the rest of us just lost our meat bait to the amazon river fish of the lagoon (includes sardines, pirahna, and catfish).

I have discovered a true pleasure in my renewed hobby of bird watching. Although I grew up identifying birds (their habitat, sounds, nests, and eggs), I thoroughly enjoyed spotting them in the rainforest and trying to identify them in bird encyclopedias afterwards. With the help of our very knowledgeable guides, Antonio (Achur guide) and Juan Carlos (naturalist guide) here is a list of the more exotic birds identified over the five days:

  1. Crimson-crested Woodpecker
  2. White-throated Toucan
  3. a flock of Blue & Yellow Macaws
  4. a nest in a dead tree of Dusky-headed Parakeets
  5. Violaceious Jay
  6. Yellow-rumped Cacique (there was a tree full of these yellow and black birds building their nests right behind our cabin)
  7. Blue-throated Piping-Guan
  8. Ringed Kingfisher
  9. Hoatzin (a.k.a. Stinky Turkeys)
  10. Greater Ani
  11. Red-capped Cardinal
  12. Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
  13. Lesser Kiskadee
  14. Greater Kiskadee
  15. Blue-gray Tanager
  16. Magpie Tanager
  17. Long-tailed Hermit (from the hummingbird family)
  18. Common Potoo (camouflage into the tree trunks)
  19. Great Tinamou
  20. Purple-throated Fruitcrow
  21. Smooth-billed Ani (from the cuckoo family)
  22. White-eared Jacamar
  23. Russet-backed Oropendola (a very loud, explosive, bubbly sound)
  24. Orange-back Trupal
  25. Long-billed Woodcreeper (rare)
  26. Neo-tropical Cormorant
  27. Great Egret
  28. Limpkin
  29. Chestnut-fronted Macaw (nesting in a tree)
  30. Horned Screamer (almost sounds like a howler monkey)
  31. Little Blue Heron (extremely rare)
  32. White-winged Swallow
  33. White-banded Swallow
  34. Social Flycatcher
  35. Yellow Caracara
  36. Cocoy Heron

Other memorable moments in the rain forest included:

[read on]

It’s Not the Destination . . .

Friday, September 26th, 2008
It’ Not The Destination . . . It’s the journey. Such was ours on Monday, Sept 22 when we traveled to the Kapawi Eco Lodge. Located in the southeastern corner of Ecuador, a one-hour boat ride from the Peruvian border, this ... [Continue reading this entry]

Goodbye Galapagos!

Monday, September 22nd, 2008
Fred and I have just returned from an exciting week in the Galapagos Islands and we're back at "The Magic Bean" in Quito.  We spent the first 5 days on the M/Y Monserrat I, a 16 passenger, First Class, 91' ... [Continue reading this entry]

Packed Up Good

Friday, September 12th, 2008

Ola! Our long awaited, 8-month trip finally took fruition yesterday (yes, September11th)! Our flight on Air Canada from Toronto to Bogota, Columbia was actaully 1/2 hour quicker than the 5 hours expected due to  strong tail winds helping us ... [Continue reading this entry]