Dulce Vida

Looming magestically at 1633 meters, Volcan Arenal is known as one of the worlds ten most active volcanoes. We’re lucky enough to be there on a day where the peak isnt obscured by cloud, as is generally the case, due to the regional climate.
Trail map in hand, we set off to explore the lava fields that surround the base of the volcano. Stumbling over the jagged lava rocks in my poor choice of footwear, flip flops, trying to scale beyond the “Danger – Active Volcano – Do Not Cross” sign (an attempt to get a really great photo)…. Im picturing how vicious and superheated this lava was at one point, erupting in 1968, it spread hot rocks and toxic gas over 12km, killing 87 people. There are now several homes, hotels, and businesses situated near the base of the volcano…. arent the inhabitants afraid of history repeating itself…..?

3 hours of hiking has left us excited for the soothing comfort of a hot spring.
A grocery store clerk in Monteverde had told us about a “secret entrance” used by locals for getting into the ‘real’ hot springs, where you can not only experience it in its most authentic and unspoiled form, but you also avoid the $30-$70 entrance fees that all the resorts charge for access.
The steam rising from the hot springs is visible from miles down the road. Taking the “secret path” we soon drop into an endless oasis of pools of waterfalls, powerfully cascading down the mountain …. The water temperature is so hot that my fingers and toes are shriveled into prunes within minutes.

I read something the other day which I believe truly captures how unique this area is…..” The four elements of nature are very prevalant here at Volcan Arenal. 1) The heat (fire) of the volcano 2) The flowing (water) of the hot springs 3) The pure, clean (air) of the lush rainforest 4) The fertile (earth) of the Fortuna de San Carlos Region”……looks like Mother Earth has created a special place where there is perfect balance and cohesion in the cycle of nature

Monteverde, elevation of approx 1400m above sea level, is home to an ecosystem of over 100 species of mammals, 400 species of birds, 1200 species of amphibeans and reptiles, and over 2500 varieties of plants (420 varieties of orchids alone). Its climate is one thats constantly cloaked in mist and a hazy fog that sits above the canopy (90% of organisms in a rainforest are found in the canopy).
The downpour of rain lets up just as we arrive for our SkyWalk hike. 2.5km of trails through the rainforest, along with the crossing of 6 suspension bridges, provides for breathtaking panoramic views above the canopy.
At 6pm, dusk turns to nightfall, and the rainforest is beginning to awaken… nocturnal creatures emerge, in search of food. Its time for our night hike. Flashlight in hand, and a chatty naturalist guide leading our way, we enter into the pitch darkness of the rainforest. Within 5 minutes into our walk, the guide points out a tarantula, Im arms distance away from my biggest phobia. I nearly drop my flashlight and sprint at breakneck speed back to the car. That is one large tarantula in front of me (about 3 inches in diameter), very furry, and black and orange colored. They arent deadly, but they do have hairs on they’re stomach that have sharp little barbs on them, and when threatened, the tarantula will rub these hairs with they’re legs and shoot them at they’re predator…ouch!
Continuing on, we come upon a flurry of bats (there are over 110 different species of bats in Costa Rica)… but they’re so quick, its virtually impossible to even catch a glimpse of them. We’re also fortunate enough to see an owl, various species of frogs, numerous insects, beetles, crickets, sloths, sleeping birds, scorpions, and butterflies, among many others. Exploring the calm beauty and tranquility of the rainforest after dark is a unique experience . The sounds are so magnified, and the sights entirely different than those which are seen during daylight hours.

El Crucero, Nicaragua. Sitting at an elevation of 872meters, with a population of just over 15 000, its a tiny pueblo approx 25 miles from Managua.
A string of fortunate events over the last 2 months have brought me to the big metal gates marking the entrance of the Vipassana center in El Crucero. A 10 day, silent meditation retreat. Upon entering, you must relinquish any items which may be of a distraction to yourself over the next 10 days…..books, cell phones, laptops, writing materials, journals, ipod, etc…. The ringing of the bell at 4am announces daily wake up calls, with the days concluding at 9pm.
Checking in with me is the most diverse group of people. About 15 men, and 25 women… different ages, races, ethnicities, from all walks of life. Everyone here seeking balance, and a deeper interconnection between mind and body. Observing the faces, each one is etched with frown lines, stress permeating the atmosphere around them. Leaving 10 days later, everyone looks as though they’ve regained 10 years of they’re life back, all agitation and tension having entirely evaporated.

Among them…..theres the Nicaraguan gal who sits beside me, in search of her own identity, seperate from
the regimented and predetermined path her father has set out for her, a path which has placed the utmost importance on social status and power. Theres the German woman, who has quit her high paying, high stress, sales job, and is struggling with how to now financially provide for her husband and child. Theres the Christian missionary seeking enlightment. Theres the gal who DJ’s at raves across the world, who has the most delicate facial features, and long brown curly hair, which is entirely shaved on the left side of her head….giving her a cameleon look depending on which side of her profile your looking at. Theres the lady who was diagnosed with colon cancer 5 years ago, and given a month to live, just as she discovered Vipassana. Theres the big, burly Nicaraguan guy who starts sobbing uncontrollably during meditation. Theres the petite Austrian gal, who has battled skin problems throughout her life, and is searching for alternative healing. Theres the Canadian yoga instructor, who has moved to Nicaragua in search of a more tranquil lifestyle. Theres the Australian guy, an ex hippie, who regularly turned to intoxicants as a means of escape, before discovering Vipassana over 15 years

Asked for a bottle of water….got this:)ago. There’s the other German gal, who speaks 5 languages, and has just arrived in Central America, having quit her job in the corporate world (I can relate!)

The Vipassana retreat was the hardest thing ive ever endured in my life….far surpassing any of the physically demanding or challenging events i have ever trained for. To try and describe my time at Vipassana is fruitless. Its something one must experience themselves in order to truly grasp the full magnitude.

There are 24 pages in a Canadian passport….and im proud to say my Nicaragua stamp has now taken me up to page 17.

After exploring down the Costa del Pacifico Norte….in search of the perfect wave, the most pristine beach, and yoga friendly vibe…. the border crossing into Nicaragua was an experience unique in itself.

With my Venezuelan and Canadian buddies, in a 1980’s rickety 4×4, we set off for the border. the line of trucks waiting for inspection goes back for miles….hammocks attached underneath the trucks, so the driver can sleep.
Regular cars (us) drive those miles on the opposite side of the road, narrowly tipping over the embankment each time oncoming traffic comes. Since crossing over the border with a car is a nightmare, what people generaly do (and what we did), is park your car at one of the houses right before the border, pay the homeowner a couple of dollars, and walk through the border & get a taxi or bus on the other side.

We parked, grabbed our backpacks, walked to the costa rica border office, got our passport stamped, then walk the 2 miles to the nicaraguan border, chaos in between, military presence everywhere, passport check at two different stops, passport stamp by a sketchy guy sitting behind a flimsy desk with one dinky lightbulb hanging above him, you pay $12 to enter the country (and they dont accept colones or cordobas – the nicaraguan currency – @ the nicaraguan border!!! only accept american dollars).
In a taxi on the other side, we are bound for san juan del sur (the driver making a pit stop at his house to pick up his wife, so she can feed him his dinner while he drove us). I couldnt stop grinning through the entire experience….truly fantastic

Nicaragua is wonderful …. I imagine its what Costa Rica used to be 10 yrs ago. Unsophisticated and easy, with such a special kind of character.

Nicaragua…..despite the fact that half the population lives below the poverty line… the people of this country radiate happiness, goodness and an incredibly cheerful spirit. Its a culture with strong traditions and festive religious celebrations.

Although Nicaragua and Costa Rica border one another…..they are two countries very unique and distinct in theyre own right, and with theyre own special character. relations between the two have remained strained over the years (perhaps they’re long history of border disputes over an area near the San Juan river, contribute to the tension between the people of the two countries).

Locals keep they’re doors wide open, while sitting on the porch, enjoying easy conversation with they’re neighbours. Instead of building movie theatres, they’ll set up a film projector on the side wall of a church, the community gathering around to watch a movie. The country has not yet been infiltrated by expats, and finding store owners who speak English is uncommon. What is common, is they’re hospitality, Ive on numerous occcasions been told “Welcome to nicaragua chica”.

Sitting in the front seat of a dilapitated taxi today, my board secured to the roof, I head for Playa Remanso, a spot 3 miles south of San Juan Del Sur, its a small cove with white sands, tidepools, and mild surf conditions… perfect for a beginner. Upon arrival, we see there is barely a swell rolling in. The taxi driver, who sees the dissapointment etched on my face, and whom Id befriended through my best efforts in broken spanish, suggests taking me to Playa Hermosa, no extra charge, he insists.

Playa Hermosa…. standing at the foot of the beach, with my board in hand, Im speechless. The only other soul in sight, is the security guard lounging on the hammock. The ocean is endless, with two large bolders bulging out in the distance. Mountains on either side, with no sign of any infrastructure to be found. The ocean is calm, the waves gentle… The taxi driver insists I take my time, and he will wait, again, no extra charge. I realize there actually wouldnt be any other option to get out of there, even if i did have a cell phone, im quite sure id get no reception.

I paddle out into the endless abyss of ocean, enjoying the surf, all to myself. Getting back in the taxi after my session, the driver hands me some bananas “tu hambre”?…. what a friendly culture

Ste Teresa is listed by “Travellers Choice 2011” as the #10 most beautiful beach in the world. Standing at the foot of it, I can see how this not quite yet discovered, and still somewhat uninhabited surfers beach community can lay claim to this statement.
Coming from a very remote area as Playa Guiones (which had no street lamps) Sta Teresa, with its one sole street going through town, appears like a city in comparison. Supermercados, hostels, smoothy bars, taco restaurants (with prize winning papas fritas), surf shops, all line the one long stretch of gravel road that blends from playa carmen into ste teresa. the waves are strong and powerful, and absolutely not suited for a beginner. Taking Geri and Kayla there for they’re introduction into the surfing world, i soon realize, is not the best idea. Myself, thinking im a better surfer than I am, paddle out past the break, and swiftly get a reality check from the fiercely pissed off ocean, when the first wave i try for, knocks me down, and holds me under for several seconds longer than im comfortable with. gasping for air when i come up, i realize i have no business being out there. so with a possibly broken baby toe, and a rapidly spreading purple bruise on my arm, i decide to stick to the white wash.
The 3 of us are in for a surprise when we arrive in MOntezuma several days later. We’ve booked ourselves into a yoga retreat center (pseudo hotel) for a night in the jungle hilltops of montezuma. the views are spectacular from the highest point of montezuma. There is an infinity pool filled with apple cider vinegar and sea salt, our room has floor to ceiling windows facing the wild jungle, and an outdoor shower with howler monkeys swinging just feet away. We come to learn that we’re actually there the same night as the annual yoga festival party. Looking at 11 yr old Kayla, the owner tells us “”we dont condone pot smoking, or nudity necessarily, but I cant promise what may or may not happen at the party tonight….”” a party which starts at 5pm, and goes well past dawn… loudly, outside our bungalow door. me and geri, feeling old, toss back a few margharittas, and once the glow sticks come out, and rave music starts pumping, we head in to bed with our ear plugs, to try and awaken fresh and early for our zip lining excursion the next day. ”

Playa Guiones has a special place in my heart. Aside from the fact that its overly populated with expats, and therefore highly overpriced, its still a gem, hidden among forest and hillside. There are no street lights here, therefore headlamps or flashlights are a must have at nightfall.
Guiones and Nosara are the epicenter of health and wellness. With the Nosara Yoga Institute at the top of the hill, organic and raw food stores lining the street through town, environmental sustainability at the forefront, you wont see a single piece of trash on the beach.

It was here I attended a karaoke fundraiser at an outdoor yoga center, dedicated to the victims of the Japan tsunami disaster. It was also here, where a deeper love of yoga was awakened in me, with daily classes on the hilltop overlooking the ocean. Its also here that I met people who showed me such genuine goodwill, even offering me theyre homes if I ever decide to come back through Guiones.

Road trip…. new friends ive met in Avellanas, two surfers from the US who’ve come to Costa in search of the perfect waves, offer to give me a lift to my next destination… Nosara (Playa Guiones). Car packed up, boards secure on the roof rack, I say goodbye to the amazing friends ive made here, and we set off for the bumpy ride ahead. Along the way we stumble upon a rocky little beach, and notice several guys in a tree, shaking the branches in an attempt to drop some mangos from the tree. We stop to help them catch the mangos as they fall, preventing them from splattering all over the gravel. 10 minutes later, we’re all sitting on the side of the road with our new tico friends, endulging in the juicy fruit, making small talk in our broken spanish. At one point, one of the ticos runs back to his house, instructing us to wait, he quickly returns bearing a bucket filled to the brim with a different variation of mango, a smaller and sweeter kind, he hands this to us, as a gift, to take for our journey. They stand in the middle of the road to wave us goodbye as we drive off.

an hour further into the drive, finds us sitting in the car, at a dead stop, facing a river which has entirely overflown the “pseudo” road we had been on. there is a bridge to the right … but its barracaded closed. uncertain what to do, one of the guys gets out to walk the river, in an attempt to gauge how deep it is. waist high. Back in the car, staring silently ahead, we wonder what to do. A crowd of school kids in blue uniform have gathered around us by this point, undoubtedly curious as to what we’re going to do next. finally, my buddy says “screw it, roll up your windows, lets do it” the water almost reaching the height of the window, we miraculously make it to the other side. the kids waving at us as i look through the back window.

several miles up ahead, we come across an entirely secluded beach with stretches of dark sand, the perfect waves rolling in. Without hesitation, the car is in park, our rash guards are on, boards in hand….we run for the water. a random cow struts along the beach as we’re chilling in the waves.

The day is wrapped up enjoying some fish tacos and margharitas on the hilltop overlooking playa guiones
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The road to Avellanas…. to describe it as bumpy, rough, and dusty would be a huge understatement. But once you arrive…. that torturous drive instantly evaporates into a far distant memory. you find yourself grinning from ear to ear, struck by the simple, fresh beauty of whats in front of you. The long boardwalk through the mangroves that drops you into an endless expanse of pristine beaches, the lush surrounding wilderness, the howler monkeys raging in the trees, the fire red sunsets…. I feel a peaceful sense of “coming home” in Avellanas.
My days in this tiny wonderful town are spent enjoying the camaraderie of dawn and dusk surf sessions with new friends, daily yoga on the white sand beaches, and easy conversations with the locals and expats who live here, who’s individual stories and life experiences have touched my heart, and who’s genuine goodwill and tranquil way of life have left an everlasting impression on me.
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I read a great quote the other day “the center of the universe is wherever one happens to be in that moment. one is never truly ‘lost’ unless, and until that condition is admitted to”

The uncertainty and fear that i felt upon arrival here, are fading. As I walk down the street, in the easy companionship of my newfound friends from the hostel, heading for our dusk surf session… I gaze around, absorbing my surroundings. Ive entered a world which is so distant and far removed from my life back home… the ocean breeze, the white sand under my toes, the unspoiled beauty of the mountains in the background…. my entire body feels light and fluid. Im right where i need to be in this very moment
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