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Biking and bike-trekking: The Careterra Austral Part 1

Monday, February 12th, 2007

Lake Fitzroy Best.jpg

Sorry this is such a long post but there is so much to tell…. like how I’m soooo sick of eating fresh trout …. not! 

The Careterra Austral is a road (very loosely termed) that was built in Chile during the reign of General Pinochet to try to connect about 1200kms of small fishing and farming communities in the south of Chile to the populated areas to the north. It passes through the wettest area in the world outside of the tropìcs, through thickly forested, steep and mountanous terrain, around startling blue lakes and clear running rivers flush with trout and salmon. We have now completed 600kms of the road, from a little known Arg-Chile border crossing in the south involving 2 lake crossings and a thin hiking trail, to what seems like the thriving mertropolis of Coyhaique (a small town by any other standards but the biggest one we have seen in a while). Adventures along the way include…

  • Getting stranded in the middle of no-mans-land between the Chilean and Argentine border for 4 days after missing an infrequent ferry.
  • Fresh trout roasted on the fire for dinner with wildberry sauce- much better than the usual pasta!
  • Getting a ride on a seriously dodgy south-asian style fishing boat for a 3.5 hour trip through the maze of fjords in southern Chile in the pitch dark.
  • Refining the Patagonian howling monkey shower technique.
  • Mick playing hairdresser by hacking into my hair with his leatherman

[read on]

Bring on the cakes: El Calafate to El Chaltén

Thursday, December 7th, 2006

We recovered from the wind a while in El Calafate, not that it gave us much of a break…. a day out on Lago Argentina in a small tourist boat felt like what I imagine the Drake Passage is like on the cruise ships to Antarctica. You wouldn’t think a lake could get up swells like that. It was all very beautiful in spite of the weather though, the highlight of our few days in El Chalten being the Perito Moreno Glacier which is as spectacular as all the hype makes to out to be. One of the only glaciers that is advancing (slightly), although the actual face is pretty static.

[read on]

On the bike again: Puerto Natales to El Calafate

Tuesday, November 28th, 2006
After the W trek in Torres del Paine we took a couple of days to recover while Dad his bike gear organised and had a few practice rides around the lovely Puerto Natales. We climbed up a steep hill to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Doin the W in Torres del Paine

Wednesday, November 22nd, 2006
The famous 'W' trek in Torres del Paine certainly lived up to expectations. The scenery was amazing - Glaciers, lakes and tall mountain peaks, and carrying all our gear on our back while trekking was still surprisingly easier than carrying it on the bike ... [Continue reading this entry]