Galway and Connemara
The potato place was good – I got the curry potato, which was weird, but good and left me with lunch today. Then I hung out in the hostel. I’m staying in the Salmon Weir hostel (which is the name of Galway’s 2nd bridge), and it is a serious backpacker’s hostel. I met one guy who has lived there off an on for 3 years since 2001. And stays of a few months to a year seem to be the norm. Anyways, its very homey and I really like it.
Today I went to Connemara on a tour. The bus was driven by Martin, a very nice older gentleman, who played trad music when he wasn’t talking (not some of the best, perhaps…) We started out along the Corrib river in galway and crossed the Salmon Weir bridge. It was very misty when we started out this morning, so the bridge was enshrouded in fog and very beautiful. Most of the landscape was misty throughout the morning and very otherworldly, which I enjoyed, even if it meant we couldn’t see a couple of sites (the quiet man bridge, O’flaherty castle – in the 11/1200s the Normans inscribed on one of the gates of Galway “Deliver us lord from the fury of the O’Flaherty’s”. Or at least that’s what the guide says – sounds like an urban legend to me). Then we went through the fishing village of Oughterard, on the river Auron (thats what it sounded like – as it was Irish, it’s probably spelled SQZHL). Then we drove through lots of landscape and the Montaurk mountains. Now – I’ve really wanted to see Connemara on this trip – and you know when you anticipate something so much, it can be a let down? Well this wasn’t at all. The landscape was intensely beautiful – I just loved it. It was rocky and grassy, and scrubby and gorgeous.
Anywhoo – the Montaurk mountains (‘wild boar’) were carved out by glaciation 10,000 y.a. and are predominantly quartzite, schist, and granite. there were sheep here too (of course). They are connemara black faced sheep – and they are like mountain goats – they can climb really well. They are reared for their meat (their wool is only good for carpets) and farmers generally have flocks between 100-500 animals. We stopped in Leenaune village for tea (the barman looked like he had been born in the pub 100 years previously). This is where “The Field” with Richard Harris was filmed (never heard of it…). Then we saw Killary harbour, which is Ireland’s only fjord (fjord, fjord, fjord), and where they rear mussels and oysters.
Next we went to Kylemore abbey, which is the photo that is on my Ireland poster that hung in my room for a couple of years in college, and is now in the bfast nook in Boston. Anyways, it is gorgeous, and was originally a honeymoon present (Ah, to be rich and Victorian). Seriously – I want to live there. (When it was a victorian home, not a nunnery). The grounds were beautiful (although the gardens weren’t open) and there was an absolutely beautiful neo-gothic chapel on the grounds as well. (This is why I won’t get all my photos up for a while). Oh – and they are closing down the boarding school there in 3 years (Kristl wanted to go there). Then we went through the eine valley, with the Monntaurk mountains on one side and the 12 pins (or bens) on the other. More beautiful scenery. Then we went into southern connemara, which had more granite, and was much rockier (plus we saw connemara ponies and mute swans). Oh! And I saw a pheasant of some sort! I’ve never seen a wild pheasant before (I don’t think). I also saw some large bird flying that I thought was a heron at first, but as it came closer I saw it had a much shorter body. But it was still very large – I don’t know. I’ll have to browse a bird book.
So yeah – I loved the trip. I kind of wish it were spring, so I could visit the national park (I wanna see a pine martin!). But I was talking with 2 Americans (Emily and Nora – Nora was moving to Dublin before law school, so I was helping her out with stuff) – we agreed that despite so inconveniences, we were all glad to be here in winter, when the weather is pretty nice, and it is far less crowded.
On the way back, the guide mentioned that the promenade to Salthill was the longest promenade in Europe (maybe he meant coastal promenade?). Got back, wandered around town, burned 2 CDs of photos (they are not all going up on the web – but there are a bunch of new one – new album: Carrowmore-Galway), and got nachos for dinner. I’m feeling very American today – I might even watch the superbowl. Anyways, they were the oddest nachos I might’ve ever had (I think the refried beans were flavored with marinara, and on the side there was guac, sour cream, and salad dressing. No joke.) but still they were good – and I had to have chips and dips – that’s gotta be the official food of the superbowl. Or maybe that’s wonderbread and kraft cheese. Or deep fried twinkies.
Anyhoo – going on a tour down South tomorrow. I might stay in Galway an extra night since I like it so much, give me a day to wander around the town and run errands and the like, and skip staying in Doolin (which’ll be on the tour). Or something. I don’t know what I’m doing – ain’t it grand?
Tags: Travel
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