BootsnAll Travel Network



The Kazakh Eagle Hunters

My friend Bavo is pursuing his childhood dream to track down the Kazakh eagle hunters who reside in far the Western Mongolian region of Bayan-Olgii.  He’s passionate about it and his fervor for these noble birds of prey is contagious.  I’ve caught eagle fever as well.  

Maybe it was growing up in Belgium and not having the proximity to nature that’s made Bavo so relentless in his search, or simply the power of National Geographic documentaries to capture the imagination of young viewers.  Regardless, he’s here pursuing his dream and I respect him for it. 

Our driver Tulegin is Kazakh and assures us that he can take us to see some eagles.  He doesn’t disappoint.  He speaks no English so random stops become common, but this time he waves us out of the car and after a brief conversation a young guy emerges from his small square house with the hooded eagle.

Later that night we head out of town to a humble ger that sits below Mount Tsengel, one of the highest peaks of the Altai.  The man asks us for a dollar each to see the eagle since the family is poor and they’re just coming out of the hard winter months.  He puts on his hunting caps and we head out into the field to check out his six-year-old bird.  We are allowed to get close to this one and it seems pretty tame.  I’m still concentrating harder on the bird’s massive talons and beak than the beauty of the bird.  The thing freaked me out.

 

The Kazakhs only hunt in the winter because they claim that the bird can see prey better when they have the advantage of the snow’s contrast.  I don’t really buy this explanation because the bird seems to be able to smell us strangers a mile away and can no doubt smell every prarie dog in a five mile radius.  I think the birds are just more likely to make a clean break if they’re let free in the summer.   

Our third eagle stop is on the way up to the Two Lakes area near the Chinese border.  This eagle is five and the largest and friskiest of the three.  Bavo braves sitting next to it after it’s owner struggles to get the hood on.  Immediately the bird’s head turns and starts sniffing who the hell is there and Bavo retreats as soon as I take the picture.

 

   

Bavo tells the man that the eagle is beautiful and he chuckles.  The Western perspective is so different from these nomadic men who’s aim is to gather as many fox, squirrel, and wolf skins as possible.  The eagle to us is majestic, but it seems they view it more as a tool. 
For more information on the Kazakh Eagle Hunters check out Stephen J. Bodio’s book Eagle Dreams.

 

 



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