The luggage compartment of the Hue - Hoi An bus was full, so my rucksack ended up on the floor by the door. It was not a happy arrangement as the driver switched off the air-conditioning going up hills to save power, and opened the door instead, so every time we swerved I'd see my bag sliding towards the open road. I stuck one foot on it, and Dennis, an Australian I'd met a few days before, put his leg on the other side and we managed to keep it on board. The scenery was beautiful - rice terraces, hills, and a couple of beaches.

Hoi An, built on the banks of a river, was picturesque and old, but really touristy. I watched a traditional folk music concert, which featured someone dressed up as an old man with long trailing white facial hair (like the guy in Kill Bill 2). I visited the 17th century Japanese Bridge, the Tran Family Chapel, the Hoi An Museum of History and Culture and the Phuc Kien Assembly Hall (with incense prayer coils). I ate dinner in the Han Huyen floating restaurant, where I made the mistake of ordering 'fried potatoes.' I had vague expectations of a local dish, but was presented with a plate of greasy chips. It reminded me of finding out that in China, 'potato jam' actually means ketchup.

Hoi An is famous for its tailors, which are everywhere, selling lovely clothes at cheap prices. They can take orders and make them up in a few hours. I ordered two skirst and a dress, and was really tempted by the lined, made-to-measure suits and woollen coats for $30, but resisted. It was time to move on before my wallet took more of a kicking.