1st March 2005 – Pokora to Katmandu 4 hours

Landing in Katmandu half an hour later we found accommodation looking over Durbar Square which is one of the main attractions in Katmandu. The square has a mysterious feel about it full of temples all constructed out of beautiful carved woods with elaborate doorways and dominating pitched roofs. The square had a real buzz about it with flower sellers along side fruit and veg sellers, cycle rickshaw drivers, worshippers and people just going about their daily lives. Two of the temples are perched high on steep steps which was a great spot to people watch from. Again it was noticeable that there was a lack of tourists in the area.
We visited both Buddhists and Hindus places of worship in Katmandu. We visited the Buddhists stupas Swayambhunath and Boudhanath which is one of the world’s largest stupas and acknowledged to be the most important Tibetan Buddhist monument outside Tibet. Above the central spire is the painted eyes which is the all-seeing eyes of wisdom. There are beautiful pray wheels mounted around the perimeter wall. I did read that each spin of the pray wheels at Boudhanath is equivalent of reciting the mantra embossed on it 11,000 times. There was a real sense of calm and peace as you walked around. The Buddhists monks float around in their beautiful deep red colored robes with their soft features and friendly welcoming faces. Above the central spire is colored prey flags which span out and are attached to the surrounding buildings. These really brought the place alive.
When we visited Pashupatinath Temple, the Hindu Shiva Temple, the atmosphere was quite different. This temple built on the Bagmati River, has existed for fifteen hundred years and is the holiest Hindu pilgrimage site in Nepal. This is where we discovered the burning ghats where Hindu cremations take place which was on a smaller scale to that of Varanasi’s. I still found the sight of a burning body on view a strange one. It was a few days before a major Hindu festival which attracts Sadus or Holy men from all over the world including India. Some really play up to the western visitors by trying to charge stupid amounts of money for the privilege of taking a photo but after a few exchanges of words they take what they are given. We had a good laugh winding them up a bit. I must say the holy men, well that’s what they refer to themselves as, do take a great picture especially the naked ones covered head to toe in ash and those who elaborately paint their faces with brightly colored paint.
Most backpackers stay in Thamel which accommodates westerners every need. I could have shopped until I dropped as cashmere jumpers and pashminers can be picked up at a bargain price. Paul did buy a souvenir from Nepal, a big huge scary Gurka knife. The Nepalese Gurka’s who are recruited by the English army are by all accounts some of the best fighters in the world. I think this is partly due to their upbringing in the mountain areas which gives them immense skills in trekking.
Fond memories of sitting on a cycle rickshaw at the end of the evening being taken through the sites of Katmandu, especially Durbar Square, will stay with me. I loved Nepal for both its amazing sites of natural beauty and city landscapes but most of all the people.