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April 05, 2005

Mombasa

About a week and a half ago I left Tanzania and arrived in Mombasa, Kenya. Kenya and Tanzania are very similar, but there are two things I've noticed that seem to be a lot different: 1) It seems way hotter in Kenya. The middle of the day is for doing nothing. I hate being out around noon 'cause its almost too hot to exist. This may have something to do with being really close to the equator. 2) The people in Kenya speak way more and much better English on average than in Tanzania. This contrast was most apparent just after crossing the border when I realized that all the store signs were in English. I'm not practicing my Swahili as much as I had planned.

Mombasa is a really pleasant city, although there is not a heck of a lot to do there. I needed to extend my Kenyan visa, however, and managed to arrive on the first day of the 4-day long Easter holiday, so I got to see a fair amount of it.

The first few days I mostly did errands -- a lot of laundry, going to the ATM (this only works in big cities generally and is kind of exciting), and going shopping for clothes. I had initially only brought 2 t-shirts with me and for anyone going on a multi-month trip I have some advice: find another way to make your pack lighter. Two shirts is not enough. I have now doubled my t-shirt inventory and it is so nice to be able to put on clean closthes.

I also discovered what may now be my favorite restaurant, Island Dishes, in the Mobasa old town. Its cheap, has quick service and tasty food. It specialized in Swahili cuisine which means lots of coconut milk sauces. Yum yum. It also had some wonderful rice cake which tastes like a spicy sort of coffee cake. Cardomom, I think.

The only really touristy thing in Mombasa are the ruins of an old Portuguese Fort called Fort Jesus. I wandered around the ruins for a little while, but truth be told they weren't all that exciting. Just outside of Mombasa things are a little more interesting. On my last day in Mombasa I went to a place called Haller Park. It had once been a cement plant, bu was converted into a wildlife reserve. I got to see lots of crocodiles, poisonous snakes (if you get bitten by a black mamba, you've got 10 minutes to get the antivenin or you're dead), a few hippos, and I got to feed a giraffe out of my hand. That was cool. It had a really long tounge and horsey teeth, but happily did not bite me. The giraffes nuzzle felt kind of soft.

Posted by Jillian on April 5, 2005 09:07 AM
Category: East Africa
Comments

I've been reading along for a while now but wouldn't you know it? The kids keep getting in the way of my writing back comments! I'm lucky if I get to read your entries in one sitting. Your hike sounded fantastic! Just stay away from those black mambas... we'd all like to see you again and some of these places don't sound too close to antivenin! Miss you lots, and am insanely jealous!

Posted by: Katie on April 5, 2005 06:29 PM

Glad you can put on clean clothes twice as often - or do laundry half as often! Did you pack anything you haven't needed so far? Love you. Mom

Posted by: Joan Maucere on April 6, 2005 08:14 AM

Hi Jilian, came across your blog while searching for photos from Mombasa & the East African coast in general. Nice to know you're getting acclimated to the place & already finding stuff of interest.
I am originally from Mombasa, born & did most of my schooling there but I have been living in the US for some time now.
You put a smile on my face when you mentioned some places that I still remember well, like the Palm Hotel you stayed in, I remember it well, not far from the ABN Amro bank & the Insurance Plaza (also some 10 mins walk to Fort Jesus).
I hope you have a great time & enjoy your stay among the kind people of Mombasa. Hope to read more articles on your travels in Kenya:)
-akiey-

Posted by: akiey on April 11, 2005 02:28 AM
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