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March 13, 2005

Not your average truck-stop

It was a nice re-introduction to China. For a start, the bus actually stopped about as often as you'd want for toilet breaks.

But then came this.

We were ushered off the bus when it reached Shantou, and saw we were in front of a massive, glittering hotel.

'Fourth floor!' said our smiling bus attendant, with a warm beam.

Lagging behind the other passengers, all of whom were Chinese, we got into the gold-and-red-bedecked lift uncertainly. After all, we'd been served complimentary meals on bus journies in China before - but nothing like this place.

Perhaps you had to pay?

But no. It was all included in our ticket price. All we had to do was take a seat with our fellow passengers and then sit back like emperors while dish after dish after dish was borne out by red-jacketed wait-staff.

notanaveragetruckstopSFW.jpg

It was a sumptuous feast, made all the tastier by how unexpected it was. The most surprising dish is just visible on the far left of the photo. It's the dark-coloured one where you can just make out some springy tendrils rising up (and a pair of chopsticks is resting across the plate).

Everything else - sweet, white fungus; clear soup with pork balls; steamed bok choi; two types of homestyle tofu; and an elaborately sauced fish dish - we could make out. But the dark, tendril-y stuff was mysterious. We were on the verge of deciding they were some kind of insect that had been deep-fried and then sauced.

But external confirmation was required.

'What is that?' we asked our dining companions.

When even they professed not to know, we were intrigued. Luckily, one woman called over a waitress to get the goss.

Turned out they were goose tongues!

Ohhh ... so the bits that I thought were like bugs' legs or antennae were actually the muscles that had tethered the tongue inside the animal's mouth.

Got it.

Posted by Tiffany on March 13, 2005 02:14 PM
Category: China, Food - the weird, the wonderful, the just plain tasty
Comments

Hi Tiffany,

If you are heading toward Beijing and haven't seen the Wall already you could get a good tour from my friend Mark. Google him with Mark Yen Great Wall. He leads small groups on hikes to remote areas of the Wall. (not Simitai, but similar-- and the area is not in the LP Guide so no crowds of tourists) I went in April last year and it was a very nice time of the year to do it. All the pear trees around the wall were in blossom. He's a good guy and we've kept in contact. I hope to go back again sometime.

The wonton soup looked good. Hope you enjoyed it.

Posted by: midcape on March 13, 2005 02:51 PM

Thanks midcape - I might take you up on that suggestion. We visited Simatai last time, so I wouldn't mind maybe seeing a different part on this trip. Also, I imagine Simatai will be more crowded than it was several years ago - so going back could be disappointing.

Still tossing up about different options, though, as I read an article after leaving China last time that extolled the virtues of going the whole hog and visiting super-reconstructed Badaling with its cable cars and loudspeakers and scores and scores and scores of Chinese families ... that kinda appeals to me too, albeit in a perverse sort of way!

Too lazy at present to do anything but haul my butt between dumpling shops and a surprisingly comfy hostel bed!

Posted by: Tiffany on March 18, 2005 01:18 AM

Wow again, thanks!

Posted by: Theresa on March 21, 2005 04:40 AM
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