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April 15, 2004

Pi Mai Lao!!!

That means "Happy New Year" in Lao.

On my last day in Luang NamTha, I was invited by Yves and Martin of France to a party at their new Lao friend Soda's house. What a great invite it turned out to be!!! For New Year, the kids all run around trying to soak everyone else on the streets. Everyone is fair game, pedestrians, cyclists, people on motorbikes, etc. Water guns are very popular and as a gift, Yves and Martin bought a few for Soda's nieces and nephews. They were a huge hit.

When we first arrived, it seemed that the men and the women ate separately, and I was included at the men's table. This also meant I couldn't refuse the lao lao when it was offered to me. Luckily, I've found that it doesn't affect me too much, so I drank away. Martin, Yves, and I thought if we could get the Lao drunk first, we'd be ok. This isn't very hard to do because Lao people can't hold their booze very well. Martin and Yves had also brough a bottle of French red wine from town and when the Lao men tried it, they all made really funny grimaces, some trying to be polite, others not caring and spitting it out. It was hard to explain you sip the wine, not shoot it as you do with lao lao.

We ate gingered pork, spicy beef with mint, and some sort of sweet rice paste with coconut and egg inside of a banana leaf. After eating enough, the women joined us, and I headed off to the store to buy some beer. I hadn't contributed to the wine and food, so I splurged and bought 8 bottles of Beer Lao (650ml) for 56,000 kip. That's a bit less than $5.60, a fair gesture I thought. When Soda and I returned, the women made such a fuss you'd think that I'd bought the whole brewery. The women prefer to drink beer and drink they did. Martin and I played Caps and two of the men joined in.

Drinking games were not meant to last and soon the women wanted to dance and dance and dance. The Lao style of dancing is easy to imitate because it's much slower than the Thai version. Move your hands up and down in a fluid motion and tap you feet to the music. After some lao lao, no problem. When the Lao men wouldn't dance, I'd pretty much drag them up off their asses. Being that most of them are half my size, they didn't have much choice. This amused the women and we became fast friends even though we didn't know each others names or speak a common language.

The women were really great. They showed me who was married to whom, who the kids belonged to, etc. When I took photos, they were thrilled and laughed at their own pictures, as well as mine of friends and family. Before I knew it, I had flowers being shoved in my hair and my boobs poked again (this must be some sort of compliment!). After a bit more booze, I even ran down the street with a bucket of water to dump on some random girls who wandered by.

By 2pm, I was sufficiently drunk and was ready to call it a day. Martin, Yves and I eventually made our way back to our guesthouses and said goodbye. I'm glad I got to have a truly Lao experience with good people on my last day in this beautiful and super friendly country.

Posted by Claudia on April 15, 2004 09:52 PM
Category: Laos
Comments

In Kunming, safe and sound. Dry, even, though in Bangkok I got absolutely drenched from all the Songkran people chucking water about.

See you soon, Claudia!

Posted by: Ant on April 15, 2004 10:31 PM

I think the USA needs to incorporate water guns into some holidays....cause it sounds like fun!

Glad to hear you are safe and sound... you were incommunicato for a while.. I was a little worried.

You need to bring back some lao lao- what the heck is that stuff? You propably described it but refresh my memory....

Posted by: Stephanie on April 16, 2004 10:15 AM

Glad to see you safe and sound. Sort of. Taxes were taken care of and Charge will be too. Vanessa and Joey won a trip to Amsterdam and Zurich while at a performance of a foreign Dutch film at BAM. Pretty exciting! Your photos have been great. Indigenous people look so attractive and inviting. Enjoy Yunnan and post photos.
Love Mom

Posted by: Mom on April 16, 2004 03:42 PM

Wow, that's really cool for V&J!!

Steph,

Laolao is the local rice whiskey that costs like 70-90 cents a liter. It's not that strong, but the Lao people have very little tolerance and you often see them getting sick in the corners. Then they go back for more.

Posted by: Claudia on April 17, 2004 12:19 AM

Hey this sounds exactly like Holi , which heralds spring in India. It comes around March, but there is use of colour as well (and this is bad, cause it could be toxic colour). And there is a special drink called bhang to go with it.

Posted by: Dusty on April 17, 2004 09:49 AM

holy crap! 7 hours to phonsavanh! things must really be changing in laos. when i was there 3 years ago the trip took over 24 hours and involved a dead cow.
glad to hear about these places though - i really enjoy your blog.
BTW - sorry, tried to post this under the plain of jars entry but it wouldn't let me.

Posted by: Sarah on April 25, 2004 02:44 PM

Sarah,

No prob, thanks for reading!! The roads are definately improving in Laos and you can get to most major cities pretty easily.

Posted by: Claudia on April 27, 2004 06:35 AM

Nice to hear about this nice day!
After you left us, we went to another new year party! Then Yves and me went to mong ngoi (after a very nice trek in the nam ha national park). We spent three day fishing on the river to catch a 10 cm fish. youhouuu.
I had to leave Yves go south, and I moved to china, 3 days late on my visa. I am now in Dali in Yunnan province. nice city.
I ll read you blog, sounds nice.
enjoy.

Posted by: martin on April 28, 2004 09:24 AM



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