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March 30, 2004

Blah Vang Vieng?

Everyone loves Vang Vieng. WHY??? I got here just this morning, and already I'm over it.

I woke up this morning with the intention of going to a small forest resort/park called Lao Pako. I heard another traveler rave about it and I read in my trusty Lonely Planet guide that bus no. 19 would drop me off that Somsomai, from there I could get a ferry. I found the spot for bus 19, it was heading in the right direction, and the LP's times were right. Unfortunately, the bus never showed. After 60 minutes of waiting, I went with Plan B, Vang Vieng.

VV is supposed to be this place of opium delights and a backpackers heaven. I am not much for the poppy so that leaves caves and river tubing- neither of which is that exciting. As I walked into town, I noticed that it was much smaller than Vientiane and all the buildings were detached and a maximum of 3 stories high. Always a good sign.

However, what I don't like about VV is that it's only purpose seems to cater towards fat, blonde British broads with tiny tank tops on that display their hefty guts just over a too short skirt or sarong. Of course I'm exaggerating (they come in many nationalities), but farang have been strutting around in next to nothing. There are more pizza joints than I have fingers, all of which seem to have gotten their "pizzeria" sign from the same signmaker's sale- they're all exactly the same.

While sitting in just such a place (there's a lack of anything else around really), I watched as other farang wandered by. I often wonder why places like VV, Yangshuo, Goa, basically all of Thailand, appeal to this type of tourists because they just want everything they have at home. Why bother coming to Laos, India, or China?

I also feel partially responsible when they wander around half naked- I feel like they should know better. They should, but it's me who winds up getting worked up about cultural sensitivity. It makes me think of the two girls in Goa who had their sloppy boobs out around a hoard of horny Indian prepubescents. It's just asking for trouble and it makes those kids think all westerners are a bunch of "loose women" and life harder for me. Same thing happened in Thailand when Vanessa and I saw the scariest woman topless on the beach who looked like the old lady from There's Something About Mary. Hell, if I were on the French Riviera, or almost anywhere in the Mediterranean, I'd pull off my bikini top too, but these people aren't and they should remember that. I'll get off my soapbox now.

The sad thing so far about VV is that it seems to have not much to itself anymore and completely dependant on farang. This could be me talking about stuff I don't know, but there is a different feel to the town, people don't smile back as much. The most contact I had with a Lao person today was when the girl I bought fruit from giggled at me and the man who sold me tweezers gave me my change. Perhaps I will have a different experience tomorrow. I'll rent a bike and see how I feel about things then.

Posted by Claudia on March 30, 2004 04:24 AM
Category: Laos
Comments

Van Vieng does have the platforms at the very pleasant Riverside Bar which is a splendid place to watch the sunset and drink lemon shakes.

(And now that you mention it, the pot in VV is pretty good too....)

Posted by: Joe E. on March 30, 2004 08:50 AM

Hey, I am sure tomorrow will be a better day. BTW office banned yahoo and hotmail.

Ant if you read this blog, have posted you on personal site or whatever is available on bna... heeee bna is not blocked, not as yet.

Posted by: Dusty on March 30, 2004 11:46 AM

Hi Claudia

I sent you an email with a bunch of suggestions and details on some places in country you might like. Have fun and keep up the great posts.

Rob

Posted by: Rob on March 30, 2004 11:57 AM

Hi, I'm just about to head into Laos, but your post makes VV sounds depressingly familiar. I guess there are just a lot of travellers who essentially want holiday type experiences: nice, recognisable food, beer, people from their own culture to talk to, never too high a level of discomfort. Enduring unpleasant conditions, days without any English speakers around or weird, basic food in order to be in places which are fascinating in their own right isn't something they'd want to do... And as for dressing differently to how they would on the beach/at home... why bother, if you aren't really interested in getting to know local people?

If you're trying to travel to experience, something, I don't know, more about interacting with different cultures, visiting more "authentic" places, perhaps hoping to challenge yourself in some way, it's a bit of a struggle working out how to escape the seemingly growing number of places set up for the other type of traveller...

Rant over, the other things you've said about Laos sound really exciting. Just how hot is it right now? I've got used to cold Chinese spring time weather, and SE Asia is probably going to be a shock to the system.

Posted by: Daniel on March 30, 2004 10:11 PM

Rob, got your email. Haven't read it yet.

Dusty, today was better but I'll leave tomorrow before I get pissy again.

Joe E, haven't sampled it. I'm sure the herb is good but I generally prefer Beer Lao. :)

Daniel,
I so far have preferred Vientiane, which most people think is a comlete bore. Of course I am trying to get out there more, but it will be easier from Luang Prabang, where I head next. It seems to be more of a travel hub. Will post more in another entry.

Posted by: Claudia on March 30, 2004 10:49 PM



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