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March 28, 2004

I'm Loving Laos

This country rocks. It's what I always hoped Thailand would be, but better!!!!

After waking up from some severely disturbing dreams this morning, I decided to be ambitious. I try to have a rule: one tourist thing a day. It keeps me from burning out and forgetting half of what I've seen. Anyway, I sort of ignored it today, if you consider some light shopping a tourist attraction.

First stop of the day was Vientiane's Morning Market. There were rows after rows of silk shops and gold and clothing. It all looks the same after coming from Thailand where all the shops sell Thai silk embroidered with the same colors over and over. I had wanted to buy a piece in Chiang Mai but the vendors were all too expensive and hassle you. Fortunately, I waited because this morning I found a perfect piece of silk at a young woman's stall. She said $15, I giggled. I said $6, she giggled. After a few minutes of giggling on both sides, we agreed on $8.50, which I am sure is too much. However, I had a reason for picking her- her English was decent and I could get her to tell me where to catch the bus to the Buddha Park. She asked me to say certain phrases a few times so she could perfect saying "it's across the street" and "no, turn around, it's the other way." No prob.

After finding out where I had to go (and buying the umpteenth pair of sunglasses on this trip which I am sure will be broken within 4 weeks), I went to the bus terminal. A sign with some English pointed me in the right direction and a thin but swarthy Persian (a fellow farang) confirmed I was on the right bus. For 20 cents, I went 20 kms, and heard about how the Persian's family fled Iran when the Shah was deposed. His mother was Persian and his father some remote Iranian tribesman from a place where they are hearty people and ride horses everywhere. Now, he lives in Australia but he's been in Thailand for the last year getting some painful reconstructive dental surgery. He has family in the States as well and his family there told him that people are shot dead all the time. I had never imagined that an Iranian would be wary of coming to the States because it was dangerous.... the things you learn on Lao buses!

I hopped off at the Buddha Park and was pleased to see it was worth coming all the way for. The park was filled with grotesque Buddhist and Hindu sculpture. The buddha faces were serene but had monstrous boubous noses, occasionally with skulls attached (pictures will be coming soon). I paid my 50 cent entry and spent the next 2 hours chatting with students and monks as well as taking photos. I did my usual fib of being a farmer from New Zealand bit and I enjoyed hopping from shady area to shady area with the three eighteen year old girls I met who were told me they were students. I took a photo of them that had them in stitches shyly behind their hands.

As I was waiting for the bus back, I heard someone yell "KIWI!" It was the friend of the shy girls who remembered that I said that "kiwi" is a nickname for New Zealanders. When I realized he was talking to me, I sat with the boy and he told me his name was Nicky. We wound up chatting the whole way back to Vientiane about various topics. His favorites seemed to center around girls- Lao girls are beautiful, Thai girls like to date fat old farang who have bad breath, etc. We then had a lesson on the word "breath." He had me repeat it over and over until he said it the same way and used it correctly in a sentence. I was sleepy at one point and he asked if I was feeling lethargic and I nearly hurt myself from laughing. I would have said I was tired, but I complimented him on his vocabulary. He asked me to visit his university, but being on my own I didn't think that was a good idea and politely declined.

I polished the day off with some pork noodle soup and a can of Beer Lao for $1.30. Ahhh.... if Laos is going to be this good, it's going to be hard to leave!

Oh, and for Joe E, my toe is massively gangrenous and looks like it's going to fall off!!! Just kidding, it's fine but thanks for asking.

Posted by Claudia on March 28, 2004 04:45 AM
Category: Laos
Comments

And you thought you were "over" SE Asia. How is the Beer Lao? Sam was just telling he has a friend in Eugene who's been brewing beer with chipotle peppers... I MUST try this...

These Buddhas sound really cool. Did you find out the purpose/symbolism of the skulls and funky noses and all that? "Buddha with head cold", perhaps?

Posted by: Ant on March 28, 2004 11:34 AM

HI Cluadia

One of your lurkers here, I have been enjoying your post and am glad you have finally made it to Laos. I went there recently for two weeks and ended up spending 3 months. I absolutely loved the place, the culture, the shopping, and especially the people!!! I don't know what your schedule is but if you want a couple of suggestions of places to go or see just let me know, I roamed the whole country from north to south and east to west, and I would be glad to pass on some info.

Rob

BTW - if you loved chiilin to Thai time, you in for a new experience in Laos!! The country of PDR Laos (PLEASE Don't RUSH Laos) takes the concept to a whole new level.

Posted by: Rob on March 28, 2004 04:08 PM

Rob, I'm up for suggestions in the north. I am wandering around until I cross into China on April 15.

Posted by: Claudia on March 29, 2004 02:07 AM

hey claudia. you are so making me want to go to Laos! I will add it to my wish list. which is growing way too big to pick one country from.
never saw you when you left Singapore, guess I was asleep. anyways, it was very cool to meet you there.
btw, I was almost deported when entering Malaysia back. Seriously. Immigration guys wer not happy at all with my visa rush. Took me a long time to convince them,and I could not tell about the job.

Posted by: lets on March 29, 2004 07:29 PM

Lets,

I'm sure you could easily do Laos. It's pretty cheap and everyone seems reasonably friendly.

Glad you got your visa taken care of. What was the problem? Did you wind up getting the work visa when you got back??

Posted by: Claudia on March 30, 2004 03:43 AM



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