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Excess Baggage

Thursday, July 14th, 2005

13 July 2005 (Wednesday) – Recife, Brazil

I originally thought that I would send some stuff, mainly my beach gear and summer wear, back home from Fortaleza as from that place onwards, my clothing needs would be very different. But with the excessive shopping done at the Vifenne Art exhibition of world crafts the other day, I would have to post my things back from Recife. I spent the entire morning emptying out my bag and sorting through the rubble to decide which items got to go home now.

Katharina was amazed at what I was carrying. “Why do you have a Chinese dictionary in your backpack?”, she asked. “Just in case someone asks me for their name in Chinese and it will be very embarrassing for me, as most of the time, I do not know how to write the words…”.

I told her I was carrying 4 books as well. “You are carrying FOUR books?? Why???” “To read, of course! I come all the way to South America because it is a nice place to read books!” I had just finished Umberto Eco yesterday, so bye-bye to that.

At the start of my trip, I had 30 pairs of chopsticks from Thailand… to give them as souvenirs to my hosts. So far, I had offloaded 5 and I gave Katha 1 pair. Yes, now my backpack feels so much lighter.

We headed to Mercado São Jose on the way to the post office, as she wanted to show me the ‘real’ market that the locals go to. Bad bad idea to go to yet another market. I, who had been swearing, “No more shopping, no more shopping…” ended up buying two items there because I was sending home some stuff today, anyway. Oh meu deus!!

At the post office, the entire state of Pernambuco had apparently run out of stock of the largest postal box. They gave us a box that looked only enough for half of my stuff, but somehow or other, we managed to s-q-u-e-e-z-e nearly everything in there. Wooo… really expensive day today. No more shopping, I swear!!!

Chicken Sun

Wednesday, July 13th, 2005

11 July 2005 (Monday) – 12 July 2005 (Tuesday) – Porto de Galinhas, Brazil

Katharina’s family has an apartment in the nearby resort town of Porto de Galinhas. We headed out there with her mother late Monday afternoon to stay overnight.

Katha had asked me if I had a bikini with me. Well, yes, I do… but I do not deserve to be on the beach in my bikini as my legs are an absolute disgrace now, with all the bites and the scars! I was still itching away, and forgetting about the old wives’ tales, I recounted all my bites – 45 on my left leg and 38 on my right. I never had so many bites in my life! Katha was shocked as well, “And you don’t even have long legs!!”

Porto de Galinhas means Port of Chickens. Why chickens? Well, back in the 1880s, after slavery was banned, the bad bad plantation owners of this region still imported Africans from West Africa. But of course, they could not go out right and call them ‘slaves’ now. They used a codeword – ‘chickens’ to pass the message on that a shipment of slaves had arrived. This place was the port where the ‘chickens’ were imported.

Now, everywhere around the touristy little town are statues of chickens carved out of tree trunks. This is the typical Brazilian kitsch so fancied by the Brazilian Tourism Board. For example, the roundish, blue Telemar telephone booths found all over the country are sometimes transformed into certain symbols typical of the region. In Salvador, there are coconut and berimbau telephone booths. In Pantanal, there are macaw and cayman telephone booths. In Olinda, there are umbrella telephone booths (one of their traditional dances involved umbrellas). And here in Porto de Galinhas, there are chicken telephone booths.

But I found the chicken statues very, very cute indeed as they reminded me of the amusing-looking chickens in the movie – Chicken Run. A few were in bikini, others dressed like tourists with cameras and sunglasses, one was in her hair curlers, another was dressed like the Samba Goddess Carmen Miranda – she, with the fruit basket on her head… all very funny-looking.

The beach resort town is also famous for the natural swimming pools formed by corals and rocks near the beach which at low-tide, one could head out there for little swims or to feed the fishes in the various swimming pools.

You could either go to the pools in a jangada. This is a flat boat (almost looking like a raft) with a sail with some benches set on them. Tourists pay about R8 for the jangada guy to navigate them out to the swimming pools.

Katharina told me we could walk out there on a low-tide. But today’s low-tide was not so low, and so, we swam out there across the gentle sea. At times, Katha was able to reach the ground below and told me it was OK to walk now. But my short legs did not allow that and I choked on salty water when I tried to touch the ground. Yuck.

The water was rather murky, so we could not see the fishes properly, but she told me in some days, the water was absolutely clear and pristine and you could see many fishes trapped in the pool. We found a spot to sit on the corals, careful to avoid the spiny sea-urchins and chatted for quite a long while under the sun, until we were all pink.

By evening, we headed back to Recife. I thought that was a very nice little trip.

Salsa in the Blood

Monday, July 11th, 2005
10 July 2005 (Sunday) - Recife, Brazil Katharina drove me around Recife Antiguo. This is the old part of Recife, on a small island linked by bridges, with lots of old, colonial buildings. This used to be the dodgy red-light district, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Something for the Couch

Sunday, July 10th, 2005
9 July 2005 (Saturday) - Olinda / Recife, Brazil Katharina, my host from Recife, had said that she was working on 7 and 8 July. But on 9 July onwards, she would have nearly a week free to show me ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sandflies and Serenatas

Sunday, July 10th, 2005

8 July 2005 (Friday) - Olinda, Brazil

I spent a sleepless night, scratching myself silly last night. Although the window had been shut, unbeknownst to me, a mosquito or sandfly was already sharing my prison cell. I could have used insect ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oh Linda!

Saturday, July 9th, 2005

7 July 2005 (Thursday) - Recife to Olinda, Brazil

To get from Recife's rodoviaria to the centre, I needed to take the metro for about 30 mins, and then, to get from Recife's centre to Olinda, I needed to take ... [Continue reading this entry]

Good-bye, Bahia!

Saturday, July 9th, 2005
6 July 2005 (Wednesday) - Salvador to Recife, Brazil I bought one of those weavings with sticks thingie this morning and instantly regretted it. OK, I did not regret the purchase per se, I love it love it love it and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Falta Sexo

Wednesday, July 6th, 2005
5 July 2005 (Tuesday) - Salvador, Brazil It started to drizzle since morning and never really stopped the rest of the day. I popped in and out of tourist shops and art galleries around the Pelourinho area. Although the area is quite ... [Continue reading this entry]

Feira São Joaquim

Tuesday, July 5th, 2005
4 July 2005 (Monday) - Salvador, Brazil I moved today to Raquel's hostel. Same price of R15, with hot shower and free breakfast and much nearer to the centre and safer! Sheesh, I should have known... I am not trusting Japanese ... [Continue reading this entry]

Toasted Nice and Brown

Tuesday, July 5th, 2005

3 July 2005 (Sunday) - Salvador, Brazil

During last night's Candomblé, a lady from Argentina, Raquel, had mentioned that today, there would be a organ concert in the main Cathedral at 11am. I met up with her this morning, and we ... [Continue reading this entry]