BootsnAll Travel Network



Train Leg #9

August 20th, 2009

Seventy-nine kilometres out of Tomsk is the junction where the branch line we are on rejoins the main east-west route.  In a classic piece of short sighted lobbying the Tomsk city administrators of the time wanted to protect their own transportation monopolies and so got bypassed by the railway.  Then their town got bypassed by progress.  Thick taiga surrounds us as we cover in a couple of hours what took a year to construct.

At the obviously named Tayga we are only a couple of hundred kilometers away from the halfway point between Moscow and Beijing.  This train is almost perfectly timed, leaving in the late evening and by crossing yet another time zone, thus gaining an hour, we should arrive in Krasnoyarsk just before lunch.  The published arrival times are actually quite reliable as the drivers get bonuses for pulling into the stations at the advertised time.  A side effect of this can be long periods in the middle of the night where the train is stationary so as not to get too far ahead of schedule.

The whole time zone thing has become quite confusing.  All schedules are on Moscow time and so you are constantly adding and subtracting hours to work out when you actually are.  For example the printed arrival time to Novosibirsk was 3am which would be a terrible time but when three hours get added to this it actually works nicely.

Tomsk was a bit confusing however as it was not particularly clear which time zone we were in.  According to all our maps and the inside the station clock it was four hours ahead of the capital.  But on the main clock it was still the three that Novosibirsk had been.  In the end it hardly mattered.  We had been checked out of the hotel since midday anyway and had spent most of the afternoon just hanging out waiting for the departure time to roll around.  Getting there early also allowed me to run across to the supermarket next to the station and restock our supplies and grab a couple of mystery pastries for dinner.  One meat one cheese. Read the rest of this entry »

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Womble Town

August 15th, 2009

  While I freely admit to having a bit of a boner over trains, being forced to take a bus really makes you realise why.  My poor cycled out knees ache when forced to stay in one position for too long and with seats this tight I cannot even get into my usual sleep sitting up position.  Maybe this love of the locomotive stems back to when I was a kid and our family won a trip in the cab of a steam train.  Or that there are so few trains back home which is such a shame as they really are the best form of transport.  It just feels so much more civilised than being herded into some metal tube.  Another advantage that trains have is that once you board at a usually central station it just goes.  None of this tedious getting out of town through traffic and intersections just two rails pointing in the direction you want to go.  Even just boarding is fun.  Stand on the platform as a mighty piece of engineering pulls in.  The immaculately presented providnista’s stand ready to welcome everyone aboard.  Once underway there is so much more freedom to move around and looking out the window is far more accessible than a bus and more interesting than a plane. Read the rest of this entry »

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Disproving Chekhov.

July 9th, 2009

  I think we were all well ready to leave Yekaterinburg.  Myself because the kitchen incident was still a thing of embarrassment, Rdoc because the keyboard monument was a moment that could never be topped, and Arnika because she is a restless soul who has to keep moving.  As this was to be the longest single train leg it was a nice feeling to be embarking with a pack full of freshly laundered clothes.  With free breakfast, free wifi, free washing machines, a good selection of movies in Russian the Europe Asia Hostel really was a big improvement on the previous assortment of hotels and monasteries.  Except in one key area; snoring.  Both nights spent there have had the same occurrence of two big Russian guys coming into the room about 4am promptly collapsing Read the rest of this entry »

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Song Of The Rail.

June 18th, 2009

 

Song of the rail

  Read the rest of this entry »

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Blowing up the kitchen.

June 18th, 2009

Being in a city for only a few days you are really only trying to build a slight impression of the place.  For Yekaterinburg that would be unfinished buildings.  Most strikingly was what I assume was supposed to be a communications tower.  Instead of one aerial thrusting upwards there were many strands of concrete reinforcers forming a bamboo fence like crown.  Also impressively on this particular structure was some of the graffiti.  Not in itself but more from where it was being right at the top of this maybe thirty story structure with only a very rickety metal ladder up the side to climb.  For a city supposedly showing off its new found mineral wealth it was not doing a very good job.  Perhaps the highlight was getting halfway down the central city river walk only to have the path end and end up scrambling around rubble and through collapsing buildings to break through back onto the street grid.This river walk had sucked us in with the promise of perhaps the most inexplicable monument ever.  Richard was as excited as I think I have ever seen him.  In his words ‘a rendering of something I’ve spent half my life at.’  What else could elicit such emotion from our implacable companion than a twenty metre long stone Qwerty keyboard.  Recessed into a grass bank and with two sullen types occupying the number keys it was magnificently improbable.  The look on myself and Arnika’s faces mimicked the bemusement shown on our host’s face that morning when he got asked to locate it on a map for us.  We jumped around the keys for a while spelling our names and the like.  The teenagers glowered at us.

 Keyboard monument

Humour I suppose. Read the rest of this entry »

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