OzBus 14

Hassan provides a guided tour in the morning for those who want to see the city, but some decide to opt out and stay behind. Liam and I decide to head out together and explore the wonderful city. After breakfast, we go in search of the famous square. However, the maps provided didn’t show where this square was, so we head for the main Bazaar instead. Now we finally start to see the Iran everyone has the mental image of; slightly dusty and sandy looking buildings with rags draped throughout the corridors of shops, sunlight creeping though ragged holes shaped in the bazaar ceiling, a barrage of sound varying from clanging of cutlery, voices fighting to be heard and motorbikes threading their way though an already narrow walkway, the smell of bike fumes, herbs and spices and the natural smell of a crowd – all of which is on a backdrop of colour only seen in markets. Funny enough, as we walk in awe of the gem we’ve unexpectedly found, in the middle of all of this wonder was the square we were originally looking for! In a moment of ‘heading toward the light at the end of the tunnel’, the square (and all of it’s religious buildings) was revealed in a wash of sunshine, making the unintended discovery all the more jaw dropping (and slightly amusing). While taking pictures of everything, we approach a couple sitting down and enjoying the sun. After some talking and food sharing, he decides to share to us that he is actually a “doctor of God”, performing the work that the lord requires and helping those less fortunately and who have been let down by modern medicine. His guarantee? Give him one month with someone in need, even those terminal, and he will cure them of anything not curable by those “modern doctors”. It would involve absolute abstinence, following a strict regime dictated by the good doctor himself and involving things that he couldn’t disclose to me (obviously). Surreal to say the least, but definitely a good story to explain to friends. We decide to depart and collect leader for lunch.

Wayne joins us as we walk down the river to see some more bridges. More photos are taken till we head back to the hotel for a second time. We kill some time at the hotel, resting our feet and just hanging out till dinner time. Italian food at the hotel isn’t anything to shout about, but is good enough to feed hungry eyes. A risotto is a welcome change from the Iranian speciality of kebab! Ice cream nightcap as we rest before tomorrow heading back the way we came.

We have what is undoubtedly the tour’s best breakfast before seeing another museum. 6 hour drive ahead of us would, to the normal pedestrian, sound like a long journey, but is somewhat of a norm for us now. We stop for lunch and the 1st taste of western comfort; burger and chips!

As we pull into Esfahan, the city starts to look like Zanjan; one long high street with very little variance. The hotel, 4-star Ali Qapu, is similar to our last and just as centrally located. Handy as we plan on staying in the city for two nights.

After our usual bag drop stop we regroup and head towards the river to catch the sunset. From there we break off and the girls go for ice cream. Sweetcorn is popular in the city, sold in the street by vendors and mixed with various sauces and broken crisps. The walk and river is scenic and peaceful at sunset, but it’s the start of the Iranians looking to express their feelings and improve their English. Crowds of people, attracted by the fair skin and bright eyes of the group, watch and stare as we walk by – rather intimidating for us all, especially for the females among the group. Night falls and we all head back as Hassan has promised us a special trip to see a friend.

8pm we are all in the lobby, waiting to see where Hassan will take us. We find out as we walk that we will be visiting an artist with a niché for his canvas – camel bone. Miniaturist by trade, Hassan’s friend was also a salesman, showing us catalogues of his work. Amazing miniature pieces of art carefully dotted onto a small slab of camel bone (originally Ivory till the ban was enforced) that has seen the globe via exhibitions. Definitely a recommended experience for anyone who likes the strange and quirky. Back at the hotel, the dinner is light and a milkshake acts as our nightcap.

There is a visit to another Blue Mosque after departing from Zanjan. The weather is brighter compared to the last couple of days, giving us all a renewed sensation of tackling travel through Iran. Our next stop ... [Continue reading this entry]

Second day in Iran starts with a visit to the Blue Mosque; a historic mosque (blue as depicted in the name) devastated by an earthquake a few centuries back. We also visit the Azerberjan Museum before heading out. Fridays are ... [Continue reading this entry]