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Rio Sereno Border Crossing: Panama/Costa Rica

Monday, January 14th, 2008

Turns out this is a super laid-back border crossing. Officials on both sides were friendly, helpful and knowledgeable about how to deal with non-locals. I only say this because I’d heard rumblings to the contrary. we caught a bus from Guadalupe/cerra punta to volcan. We told the bus driver we intended to travel to rio sereno, so when he saw that bus near volcan he stopped and made sure we got on it. Otherwise the stop in volcan is at the 3-road cut-off.

The drive to rio sereno is windy and pretty and takes over an hour. All the locals (which is everyone) will get off at the town but the bus driver can continue a little ways to the “frontera” to get you closer. From there walk up the little hill where you will find the Panamanian immigration office: stamp, stamp. Then pass the costa Rican police building and next you will see the costa Rican office: stamp, stamp. Viola!
Now here is the challenge: there does not appear to be any public transport on the CR side since there is no town there. The closest is sabalito, about 5k away. But we were able to catch a ride in the back of a “transport de carga” truck to sabalito where we caught a bus to san vito. No problemo.

Now, lonely planet calls san vito a town settled by Italian with good Italian eateries and wine, etc. I don’t know if or when that was true, but it isn’t true now. There was nothing bad about the town and it was an OK place to spend the night since the only alternative from rio sereno is possibly to catch the bus to neilly, on the inter-american, and stay there. We did make it there in time to take a taxi to Wilson botanical garden ($4 taxi, $8 entrance fee) and this was pretty. Worth the $12? Yes if you are there and have a free afternoon but unless you did what I did – just crossed the border – I wouldn’t go out of my way.

But maybe my judgment is clouded because it was sometime on that afternoon that I lost my binoculars. I did track down the taxi driver to see if it was is his truck that I left him, but no luck. Now was my time to learn just how attached to them I was!! Bad timing, too: just before I head to the osa peninsula – costa rica’s rain forest gem. D’oh!

here is a quick video of the border

Leaving Panama

Thursday, January 10th, 2008

After a relaxing final day in Cerra Punta, i’m thinking about my crossing back into Costa Rica to start my northward journey. since i started planning this route i’ve had my eye on a little-used border crossing in Rio Sereno. It’s not used by foreigners much (according to lonely planet) but most accounts i’ve read indicate there is little hassle. this is appealing given that the biggest (and 2nd closest) border crossing at paso canoas is notoriously mobbed since it’s on the interamericana highway. Jake, another traveler staying at Los Quetzales was thinking the same thing so we may make a run for the border together tomorrow.

My next “big” destination is Puerto Jimenez on the Osa Peninsula of Costa Rica, near Corcovado Park. apparently it’s the best place on the Osa to get budget accommodation on the fly – as Drake’s Bay (the other side of Corcovado) has more all-inclusive lodges and fewer options all-together. hope this works out :).

because the trip from here to there has a complete handful of bus transfers and a ferry that needs to be caught by 1:30 pm, i will need to stay overnight somewhere in between. i think that “somewhere” will be san vito, a town settled by italians that reportedly has the best italian food in CR. good wine and cheese? say no more.

so if all goes as planned this is my last post from panama. I keep thinking my internet access will be spotty in “the next town” but it’s proving to be pretty ubiquitous. I’ve got new photos uploaded so remember that use can use the links under “my links” to the right to get to my slideshows and FLICKR page. also – i updated my map so you can get a visual of the journey so far. cheers! from the amazing highlands of panama.