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San Pedro La Laguna

Wednesday, February 27th, 2008

On Monday I moved to san pedro despite my reservations that it would be a hippie-haven.  I am glad I did.  It is a lovely pueblo with many Spanish schools and a decent mix of people.  I signed up at san pedro Spanish school and started one-on-one classes on the very day I inquired – $80 for 20 hours – 5 days/4hrs ea. I absolutely love the hotel sak’ cari which is just a few buildings away.  I have an incredible view of the lake and lots of hammocks and chairs to lounge and study in.

and study I must. Spanish is hard and my mind is soft.  I left my second day of classes feeling a bit down.   Spanish school took me out of my comfort zone:  tourist topics.  Now I was trying to talk about every-day stuff.  Ooohhh how little I comprehend!!!  And how much less I’m able to say!!  I feel muy tonto.  Do you know tonto means stupid in Spanish?  Isn’t it odd that the lone ranger’s side-kick was Tonto?  Coincidence?

So tonight I am holed up in my room, happy to have the wind whistling thru the cracks in the windows and doors, making me feel at home.  This is how it sounds at home on a windy day (minus the smell of burning trash).  I ordered satay “para-llevar” from Buddha (It sucked.  Literally the first thing in all of central America that I had to spit out of my mouth) and listened to NPR’s fresh air downloaded on iTunes.  It was a mighty and only partially successful effort to overcome the blues.  One does what one must.

I know I need to try a little harder and not become one of the gripey-people I’ve avoided over the past few months.  If I am assimilated it will be tragic ☺.  Usually I am able to shake it.

Lago de Atitlan

Sunday, February 24th, 2008

For the next day I arranged my transport on the $5 pullman direct to panajachel (on lake atitlan) – which leaves at 7am.  This can be arranged at many places around Antigua – just look for the signs.  it is a beautiful drive but I exited the bus unprepared.  Typically I know which direction I want to head when I arrive someplace, thus avoiding the vultures preying upon bodies that rest too long.  But this particular morning I had a hangover.  My first since the holidays!  the night before I ran into some people I had met on the collectivo from copan, then got into a conversation about evolution with a kiwi at the bar….and the rest is history.  I must have needed this.  Regardless, it was all I could do to keep my wits about me on the windy, up-and-down road to atitlan and it was out of the question that I try to read my guidebook to figure out where to go once in pana.  I can’t read a book or even a map during the best of times when I’m in a moving vehicle.

I got ripped off by the tuk tuk driver but eventually found my way to posada vinas del lago near the lake.  For $10 I got a clean room with cable tv and sinking mattress.  I had to wait too long for the water to get hot and since the shower basin drained slowly, by the time the water was hot enough it was spilling over the edge of the basin’s edge.  Thus, my arrival in pana didn’t go smashingly.  I rested that day, prepared to make a go of it the next.

Pana is a decent sized town with a main drag that caters to tourists in the market for souvenirs.  It’s a very reasonable place to do this, but since I don’t have room for fabrics, clothes, etc. – it did not suit my needs.  What it did provide was a perfect launching spot for the Sunday chichicastenango market an hour and ½ away, renowned as a regional best, so I stayed an extra day. This was worth it!