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Corn Island Rap-up

Wednesday, February 6th, 2008

I stayed 2 days at anastacia’s by-the-sea. It may be better called anastacia’s soon-to-be-in-the-sea as it is on it’s way to crumbling there. But the a/c and cable worked (miraculously) and I actually watched the super-Tuesday results come in! and while it was quite run-down, I liked it for its great location and good restaurant over the water. It’s there that one can rent snorkeling gear for $5 or so and swim out to the decent reef. Lots of fun fishies to look at. It’s also a great place to lounge in a hammock while alternating activities such as drinking beer, reading and looking out at the turquoise water of the Caribbean.

At regular intervals I would update Anastasia (the owner’s 6 yr old daughter) and her friend Claudia, at their request, on what was happening in the scary book I was reading. They thought the idea of people-eating vines on a mayan ruin was pretty cool. Anastasia had told me the day before that she wanted to be a witch so she could eat people. Interesting career goal. But then the next day both girls wanted to be hanna Montana. I didn’t feel so far away at that moment.

In the evenings I ordered kabobs of kingfish in the open air restaurant and puzzled at the odd combination of entertainment: alternating bollywood and country-western music on the sound system, the movie “the gods must be crazy” projected onto the wall, and lots of moskito fishermen slowly getting drunk on tona beer under a disco ball that twisted in the breeze. I was the only tourist there. I never figured out how that combination came about but it was the same both nights. Well, the fishermen/beer combo is understood, but these are the mental pictures picked up while traveling that one doesn’t forget.

It’s hard to tell which way the corn islands will go: the way of roatan and bocas del toro or…well…the other way….into obscurity after overfishing its lobster and conch and allowing the few tourist resources it has to tumble into the sea. I’d say “to hell with the tourist economy” if I thought they had another long-term option, but I’m not sure they do. Well, if you’re out that way it’s worth a visit. But I suspect it’s a trip better done with company and not solo.

Corn Island Rendezvous

Monday, February 4th, 2008

We set out for Managua early. There are nice microbuses that make the leon/Managua/Granada circuits. they stop less frequently than the regular buses and are only about 25 cents more. In Granada they pickup just south of the square and we caught one just as it was pulling away.

Not sure where we got dropped in Managua but we caught a cheap taxi to the airport and soaked up some air-conditioning over in the international terminal before our flight. Once there, the taxis on big corn are cheap but we caught the 5 cent bus that circles the island and eventually found a $15 room to share at “beach view hotel”, a crumbling place but with a stellar view of the light blue carib from the huge back verandah. At the time water and electricity were almost non-existent during the daytime. I was told they are doing a major upgrade to these utilities. I wonder.

Food is not cheap on the island but we had a really good meal at nautilus and the live creole music was cool. The next day we checked out many different parts of the island (called BIG corn yet is pretty darn small) but I was pretty eager to get to little corn so I made my plans to leave after 2 nights. I had also decided to splurge a bit for a hot shower ( I hadn’t had one since costa rica!) and air-con once there. I found this at los delfines after a back-battering panga-boat trip across to little corn.

I had heard many accounts from people who came to corn island and stayed for weeks so I had rather high expectations. There are no cars on little corn, only one small, rambling town that runs along a paved sidewalk. This is where los delfines is located. My plan was to cross the island (10 minute walk) the next day to check out the string of beach shacks and cabanas and pick one out.

I visited the four places to stay over there. The accommodations range from $6 shacks (not secure) to the bit more upscale cabanas at casa iguana with shared bathroom and screened windows ($35) or private bathrooms and more amenities for $60. It is breezier on this side of the island and there are good beaches and lots of hammocks. it’s ALL backpackers. I ran into several people who’s paths i’ve crossed before and we chatted. In the end, tho, I decided to keep my place on the village-side since it’s a huge room with a/c, private bath, hot water and cable tv ☺ for $35. it’s only 10 minutes from the other side and has more restaurants and local flair! Yes, this tactic is contrary to the feedback you’ll receive from just about every visitor to little corn, so do with it what you will.

The string places offering beach shacks reminds me of a place I went to in turkey about 7 yrs ago: Olympus. It’s a well-known backpacker haunt famous for its “tree houses”. I was there with Margie and christophe and we talked to a traveler who was staying for several weeks. We just couldn’t see the appeal, hanging out in the middle of nowhere, in tree-houses, with a bunch of other backpackers when you had an amazing culture and wonderful little towns to explore just down the road. He said because I was American and only had a few weeks to travel I wouldn’t understand – people who are on the road for months at a time appreciate these places and I would too if I had more time. I doubted this at the time but had no way to know. Now I know it is not so. Good to know.

After 2 days on little corn I will go back to big corn and stay at anastacia’s, which is nicer than the last place I stayed on big corn before and has snorkeling right off the dock. It will also be easier to coordinate the flight back to Managua from big corn.

puerto viejo de talamanca melting pot

Monday, December 24th, 2007
Mostly I just people watched while I was here. There was a futbol tournament going on in the late afternoon. An odd version of it tho, as it was played on a court as small as a tennis ... [Continue reading this entry]

punta uva heaven

Monday, December 24th, 2007
Puerto viejo doesn’t look too bad, but my mission there was to get a few groceries to tide me over when grub wasn’t to be found in punta uva. This isn’t a problem when one has transportation (rental car, ... [Continue reading this entry]