Don’t Want to be a Chicken in Chamula
Saturday, March 29th, 2008Lonely planet notes a tour to san juan chamula and san lorenzo zinacantan that leaves from the large cross in front of the san cristobal cathedral at 9:30 am. All one needs to do is show up – my kinda tour. It’s generally small (less than 10 people). We took a VW van and our guide was English-speaking and very good (speaking the indigenous languages as well). It gave me an insight into the chamula region (which includes over 50 communities), the indigenous culture, and offered a chance to see several “behind-the-scene” activities – like a visit to a major-domo’s house and a traditional weaver. Very worth the $15. I will go back to san juan chamula on Sunday for the market and feel like I will better understand much of what I am seeing.
But the highlight of the tour is the church at san juan chamula. It’s well known for its antics – an interesting mixture of mayan, tzotzil and catholic worship. Local indigenous people cover the floor of the church with pine needles (common in the region – they purify and protect. One finds entire markets specializing in pine needles!) and frequently ceremonies are performed by medicine men/women on the floor of the church. These ceremonies involve consuming soda-pop (so one can easily burp out bad spirits), lighting many candles, drinking posh (local cane liquor) and strangling chickens. There were several of these ceremonies going on at the time of our visit – all very serious and somber. Absolutely no pics allowed.
Only one sacrament is observed: baptism. Actually, not much of the original catholocism survives, tho the church was built by friars and the people seem to love the saints, especially john the baptist. The last priest was run off decades ago (minus one ear and an eye) and I was told occasionally one will visit from Tuxla for larger ceremonies. I imagine it would not be easy for a catholic priest to turn a blind eye to all the chicken-strangling and idolatry – especially considering how many indigenous people the catholic church killed in the name of stopping such practices!
Zinacantan was an early home of Dominican friars and has more traditional ceremonies. It’s known for its greenhouses overflowing with flowers and the floral embroideries worn by the indigenous people. This is where we visited a family of weavers and ate fabulous tortillas.
Today I visited several museums, shopped (I’m about to break down and buy an embroidered tunic) and bought my ticket for tomorrow’s corrida (bullfight). In the evening I met a vietnam vet/native American who’s lived in MX for years and a Cuban exile living in MX city who was in town for business. We headed to an “art gallery” for a Japanese art and dance show but it was your usual jewelry and the dance was fire-dance, which I’ve seen plenty off. It just happens to have been performed by a Japanese girl. I enjoyed the company, tho. there was also an interesting Estonian couple there so lots to learn.
I don’t know if a week will be enough here. Fortunately I have time and my only other must-sees for the next month are campeche and isla holbox. If I decide to stay longer it’s not a problem. I just wish I was in a cheaper hotel – which is possible.
Peggy Rehm