lucky life

I am no longer traveling…I’ve been back from Kenya since October 22, 2009. My trip was cut short after learning of the passing of my fiance’s father. I traveled 40 hours to return to his home, Indiana. We have now been home in Seattle for 10 days and have already moved into our new home and are back to work.I am now entering backdated journal entries of my time in Kenya. AND planning a return trip in January 2011 (after the wedding). There will be more travel blogging as we are heading to Honduras for our honeymoon (possibly) and in-country travels planned in the meantime.

So much has happened in the last two weeks, while at times it definitely feels as though time moves at a snails pace. Everyday is filled with new discoveries, new connections to the community, children and friends and relaxation. If anything I am getting a lot of rest here. Even though the malaria medication I take makes sleep a bit intense. The medication makes my dreams very intense and vivid, I am often awoken in the middle of the night by very real dreams and by fears that I’m being attacked by cockroaches, spiders or mosquitos. That fear is a complete reality though.The first week (which I will fill in later) my hut was visited by cockroaches nightly. They would sneak up on me in the evening and in the morning I would find several of them dead. Well I came to peace with the cockroaches and sprayed all the entrances with permetherin and they have not returned. Now I’m under attack by the mosquitos. I was bitten about 20 times on Wednesday leaving large welt like bites all over. (yes I admit I sound incredibly hot right now, can you picture it?) Even though I had covered my body with Deet strength insect repellent (as I do twice daily) and sprayed almost the entire contents of the permetherin all over my net and bed. They were after me I am telling you. The bites were so bad I finally took Benadryl last night because I was physically reacting so badly. Honestly, that is the worst of what has happened to me since I have arrived.I love the village, everyone here is so friendly and welcoming. It’s beautiful too, right off the beach of Lake Victoria. The sunrises are beautiful and it is generally so peaceful here. Yesterday we saw our first snake, it was huge and apparently can really harm you. Thankfully someone had already done the job of killing it (probably for fear of being harmed).We went to Kisimu early yesterday morning to collect the Youth Mentoring group tshirts for the presentation that occurred yesterday afternoon. The youth did such a good job with the presentation in front of most of the secondary school. It was so impressive, I was very proud of them. They all loved the shirts and we hope to have an additional training in the winter for new members and the football club, they also want to become youth mentors and teach other youth about HIV/AIDS.There are definitely cultural differences obviously that make such discussions about HIV/AIDS, the principal gave a very interesting speech after the youth’s presentation in which he highlighted the rise in teenage pregnancy, the need for abstinence and the threat of HIV/AIDS. It was actually the most responsible thing he could have done in which he recognized his own struggle between the faith of the community (most are Christians) and the reality of HIV/AIDS.Rosemary (our on site coordinator) told me that she was worried that I don’t eat enough and that Tom will be mad at her if I come back thin. I tried to explain to her that I am feeling fine and that it is an okay thing to go back to the USA somewhat lighter b/c there is a great chance I would gain the weight back within a week. I do desire to lose some weight (as it is healthier, I am getting married and generally it isn’t all that bad) and I am not eating so much here. But really it is difficult, the food is good, basic but I get tired of eating ulgali and alot (spinach like veggies) most meals. The food is just basic and substantial, I am definitely not trying to complain. Last night we did have my favorite meal though: lentils and chipatis. So tasty even though I still didn’t go back for seconds.While in town, I purchased some granola, oranges, instant coffee (as we only drink tea) and some candies. That is the other thing, Kenyans aren’t big on snacks or dessert-which is great. As I was raised on dessert which is why I could stand to lose some weight.Plus Kenyans work so hard, their exercise is their physical labor. Working in the fields, cooking, cleaning and walking everywhere. They think Americans are crazy for exercising, even though we still do it. Each day I do a little yoga, strength training and core work. It is nice to finally have time to do this stuff.I have finished three books since I have been here: eat, pray love, love walked in and everyone worth knowing (a paperback in the house). I have two books left: water for elephants and songs for the butchers daughter. I am trying to pace myself. I’ve gone through all of my podcasts and have almost filled my journal.But we do also work a lot. I’ve been out in the field most of the week going to see clients in their homes (just like back in the states) and I am completing 12 memory boxes during my time here.Unfortunately, I do not have easy or consistent access to the internet, so I haven’t been able to be in touch with people as I would like. that is probably the hardest thing, I miss everyone. I have written some letters (who knows when they will arrive) and I bought a cell phone (for emergencies and to keep in touch with Tom, whom I thought might cry when I called him the first time).I do love being here though and cannot wait to return. This is an amazing adventure and I’m just trying to soak all of it in.

So, here is my warning the internet here is very slow and apparently there isn’t always enough power to keep it on so everything shuts down. I will try and update as short as possible and update more fully when I have more reliable internet. Be patient, that might be a while.

I’ve been writing quite a bit since I arrived in Kenya, everything is so beautiful and amazing. I’m staying in a small village called Kunya, from what I can tell in the area we are, there are about 1000-1500 clan members. There are about 500 children that attend the two schools that we have visited.

We (the volunteers, currently there are 2 of us) and the coordinator stay on the property of the founder, the whole program is called Mama Na Dada. It started out as an empowerment program for girls and has turned into so much more: a daycare for the orphans (called Circle of Hope), a feeding program for the orphans and some of the primary school children, a Support group for those living with AIDS, Community Health Workers that provide home based care to those living with AIDS, a guardian group (for those caring for the orphans), Youth mentorship (students teaching others about AIDS). I could go on, but for brevity I will not.

 I am working with most of the programs in one way or another, but one my main tasks is working with the Community Health Workers.  I am working on a report that could develop into a proposal for support. They don’t need much: medicine (pain relievers), gloves, masks, and food stuffs for their clients. The visits so far have been heart wrenching, but uplifting at the same time.

It is so hot and muggy right now. My little clock shows the temp at 81 degrees and it is 5am. Sleeping can be measured in small packets of a few hours during the night, punctuated by crazy malaria-medication-induced dreams. I am not taking the medication that sometimes creates psychotic hallucinations but this one has it’s own side effects. It is definitely worth the risk as I am apparently not good at not getting bitten by mosquitos.

This morning I found 3 dying cockroaches, just in case you are keeping track. I still don’t know why they have to die in my hut. Yesterday we saw monkeys about 30 feet away, they are so cute until they realize you are watching them-then they scurring like little rats. I’d like to attract them to my window by leaving bananas for them, but I fear instead that would attract a bunch of ants.

6:58pm:

Today was again very busy. We did three home visits with the community health workers. Then we met up with the Youth Mentorship gropu. I am anxious to develop a report for the CHW’s in hopes that some funding may become available for them. Their needs are simple yet would make an incredible impact. They need simple medical supplies: gauze, medication: pain relievers, wound dressings and then they need a food bank for the home based clients: maize, maize flour, cooking fats, beans. So my goal is to develop a summary of what the CHWs do, the impact of the work they do and what is needed.

The Youth Mentorship group also wants bikes in order for them to go out and provide mentorship to others. I don’t think that would be difficult to find sponsors for.

Today as we were sitting in the very hot room during the YMG meeting, all I could think about was Fanta. And then as though someone was reading my mind, a Fanta appeared for us. It was great. I really have to work on this mind power thing.

 I am so enjoying my adventure and work here. Every day is bringing something new experience and awareness. I only get one day off but the work days are punctuated with breaks for nap and lunch and we really don’t start until 9am. And then there is Africa time which leaves behind the ridiculous punctuality of the Western world.

I learned about marriage practices today during one of the CHW home visits. The man pays for a dowery of cows and goats plus money to the woman’s family. Then the woman comes to live on the man’s property. When the CHWs found out taht I was getting married they immediately asked me how many cows were paid to my family. I explained that in America we don’t pay in cows or actually even pay a dowery to the wife’s family. They didn’t really get the concept, but that is okay. It was interesting to share about wedding rituals and customs. The courting process in general isn’t too far off from the Western world.

One of the saddest stories today was that of a woman is pregnant for her 5th time, she has had 4 previous miscarriages and is HIV positive. Her husband has another wife is no doubtedly positive for HIV and he still refuses to get tested or receive treatment. The wife is being treated but she has no protection, as her husband will not use condoms and she cannot refuse sex. If she does, he will beat her. If she leaves, she is as good as dead. She will have no place to go, no way of supporting herself and she will be shunned by the village and her own family.

I realized how lucky I am in that moment for all the rights and priveleges I have been given.

This morning has been slow which is nice. Yesterday was kind of long with the meetings and everything running on Africa Time. It’s amazing that these people actually come to meetings-nobody has a clock and everyone seems to just show up. In the midst of the farm work, house cleaning and caring for the family; people show up to engage in supporting others. It’s so inspiring. And they WALK! From far distances in shoes that are not supportive for their feet. Some people don’t even have shoes! We are so spoiled as Westerners.

I woke to what sounded like someone yelling “hello” over and over again in my window. Actually it was a goat. They sound remarkably like children. Everything I hear is an animal really. There are so many different bird sounds, then cows, roosters, goats, cats and dogs.

I found 4 dying cockroaches around my bedframe today. I thought they were actually dead but when I went to sweep them away, the legs started moving and I started screaming. I don’t know why I started screaming, as I am much bigger but cockroaches are just kind of gross in general.

I noticed that garbage doesn’t really exist here, a) there is nowhere to put it (it is all burned) and b) they are all very resourceful here. There isn’t a lot of packaging as all the food is grown or purchased fresh from the market. And people don’t have a lot of extraneous things: cosmetics, toys, magazines, items that come in big boxes. It just doesn’t exist here.

This village is idylic: no garbage, no bad food, no loud noises. Everything is so simple, yet life is so hard.

Today I worked with the Support group. These are clients living with HIV/AIDS in the village. They come together to discuss issues, provide support to each other and make plans to check in on those not there. The Support group and most of the groups involved with Mama Na Dada have what they call “merry-go-round”. Each person puts in 20 shillings or so every week or every time they meet to purchase items for the group. The group used this money to purchase hens for eggs and meat for each person.

Then I met with the Guardian group, made up of those individuals who provide care for orphans have started a farm specifically for producing food for the orphans and the guardians. Last week they planted maize and cow peas (greens). They will tend this land together and share the harvest among themselves.

 Both groups were incredibly welcoming-they sing songs and shake hands. Each meeting is started with a prayer and ended with a prayer. Most villagers (if not all) are strong Christians. They will walk for miles to attend church for two hours. It is again, very inspiring.

Today was my first day of actual volunteering. There is so much work and so much need for this one small village in Kenya. It’s overwhelming. Each of the children could use new clothes, shoes, school uniforms and basic self care. The families afflicted with HIV/AIDS have so many needs all these programs have extraordinary needs. And the expectations are that the volunteers are to bear the cost. It is impossible. So we need to have that talk.I knew that the moment would come where I was consumed with the overwhelming feeling of hopelessness. There are no safety nets here as there are in the states. No food banks, no churches that provide aide, no Salvation Army. Only missionaries and ridiculous volunteers with big dreams. The children hereare so sweet and curious. They all want to hold my hand, say hello and walk with us down the street. No I’m not bringing any home with me. It’s not going to happen. And now I know why I have to return in 6 weeks, my heart will not be able to take more than that.Today I met with the Community Health workers group and designed a schedule to go out on home visits with them. From there I hope to come up with a proposal of need for their medical supplies and create a food bank. They already have chickens that each of them have provided to 68 of the clients. But they need basic medical supplies and pain relievers.

Rosemary told me that I need to keep my mosquite net tucked in at all times even when I’m not in it. “The mosquitos are cunning” yes they are-my question is, “how do I get them out once they are in my net?” It took me half the night but I figured out how to tuck the net in properly. They need to have mosquito net classes for us novices.My hut is great, I am all by myself in what resembles a yurt with a toilet, sink and shower. Those items are currently not working due to the water shortage but they expect to be pumping water soon. In the meantime, it’s all about the sponge bath. They boil the water here for drinking, so there are no worries about that.I’ve been here for about 24hours now and it’s the day of rest. We woke and had a simple breakfast of toast and tea. I organizaed my room, took a sponge bath and did laundry by hand. I like this whole resting thing…

It’s now 7:30pm and I’m finally here in Kunya. I am staying in my own hut here on the Mama Na Dada property. It’s quite nice actually, very spacious with four beds to choose from. However only one bed has a mosquito net over it, so that is the one I will sleep under. We took a 7 hour bus ride from Nairobi to Kisimu and then a 2 hour Mutatu (small van/bus that stops everywhere and stuffs itself to capacity) ride to Kunya.The mutatu ride was so visually delightful. We would pass through small village markets and sellers would come up to the window of the mutatu to sell mangoes, bananas, roasted maize and other fresh produce. All of the people I’ve met so far in Kenya have been incredibly friendly and welcoming. Everyone wants to shake your hand and say hello. The smiles are wide and beautiful and I find myself smiling just as wide so that my face hurts.I have not felt unsafe for one moment as the coordination of transport and escort has been seamless.

i’m in Kisimu en route to Kunya where I will be staying for 5 weeks. I’m so excited as I was having lunch with the coordinator Rosemary (who is so sweet and amazing) and she was telling me that they want me to work on HIV/AIDS education, support groups and sexual abuse support. I came here with a very open mind about what I may be doing after informing them of my experience and skills and this honestly is better than I could have hoped for. Of course, time will tell but I am already very optimistic.

 I am sharing the hut with another female who has been here a month. She will be leaving in three weeks. She seems nice if not a bit young and slightly wide eyed. I am anxious to get settled, get some rest and get my bearings. Just one more 2 hour bus ride away.

 So far I am totally in love with Kenya. It’s amazing.

It’s 5:16am and the roosters have been roosting since 430am. Apparently a rooster’s work is never done. I can’t really fall back to sleep now as I am leaving in a short hour or so. I’m so glad that I had the opportunity to sleep after the long air travel days I had before heading on to the village.Per advice from the last volunteer, I attempted to savor my last hot shower last night (as I have heard that hot water does not exist in the village). However the water was so hot and there was no opportunity to mix it with cold water, that I ended up just attempting to rinse the soap from my hair before scalding my skin to a crisp.