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A Room at the Bauhaus

Friday, April 25th, 2008

Wagenfeld [Bauhaus]Dessau isn’t the most attractive town in Germany. The British flattened it in the 1940s and the Soviets towerblocked it after the war. The city seems an unlikely destination for an architectural pilgrimage, but hidden away behind the station is one of the great buildings of the 20th century, the Bauhaus.

I booked a room in the Atelierhaus [student wing] of the Bauhaus for 25 euros a night. The room was high up on the third level of the building with a shiny crimson floor and a tiny-lipped balcony.  Internal walls were painted white to create the illusion of more space and furniture was sturdy and functional; just a bed, coat stand, storage unit and two Marcel Breuer chairs tucked under a table. Two spotlights threw shadows around the walls and I quickly tidied my possessions away. This wasn’t a room that would tolerate mess,

I remembered my own halls of residence in the north of England; the nylon carpet and the wonky shelves. Nothing like this. I used the balcony and the clear February night to chill my Riesling.

There are other Bauhaus buildings dotted around Dessau. Walter Gropius designed a low brick Employment Office and a whole suburb was built to a Bauhaus spec. Beautifully preserved are the four Meisterhausers Gropius added for the college teachers and their wives. These are now open to the public and restored closely to their original design. Beautiful as they are they appear more museum than house. Door handles are gleaming and the smell of fresh paint hangs in the stairwells. The clutter and spills of daily life have been removed.

My favourite building was the Kornhaus restaurant, a lovely sweep of glass designed by Carl Fieger in the late 1920s. I got lost in the woods looking for it and then discovered I only had eight euros in my pocket when I arrived. I ordered a salad and a fruit juice from the menu and hurried out after leaving a measly fifty-cent tip. It was the last of my cash!

 Before I left Dessau, I bought a 1950s Wagenfeld cup and double saucer from the Bauhaus shop. It was so nice I bought the rest of the set from ebay for about £100 when I got back to London. A week later I was photographing some Bauhaus-inspired houses in Stanmore and found an identical set in a charity shop for £5.

Guggenheim, Bilbao, Spain

Friday, April 11th, 2008

In 1997 a strange thing happened to the Basque city of Bilbao. Amid the industrial gloom of its docks, an apparition was reported. The man behind the apparition was Frank Gehry, a Canadian with a unique eye for architecture.

The apparition is known colloquially as The Goog and it sits on the harbour-side like a melted collision between the Sydney Opera House and the Thames Barrier. A marriage of glacial cubes and tumbling angles, the Guggenheim appears to the eye like a mathematics puzzle wrapped in silver paper.

Once you catch a glimpse of the building, it tags along as you wander the streets of Bilbao. Just when you think you’ve shaken it off by turning a corner it suddenly confronts you again, peering out from behind a bank or lounging patiently at the end of a boulevard.

Inside, the permanent collection has been carefully curated to accommodate an eclectic mix from Chinese artefacts to popular abstract. Directly across from the Guggenheim is the provincial arts museum, standing subdued in the shadow of its smart new neighbour, like a cynical older relative catering for an earlier generation.

Bilbao has welcomed this addition to the skyline with genuine enthusiasm and the ensuing publicity has had positive effects in raising the cultural and touristic appeal of the city. Although the filthy river washing through the city makes the Thames look like bottled Evian, the knock-on regeneration is obvious as gloomy crane-squatted docklands once again become inhabitable.

Gehry’s Los Angeles Concert Hall is the latest in a string of Guggenheim inspired buildings, but Bilbao was the catalyst. An exceptional backdrop to a gritty industrial port with more refined aspirations.

Architecture & Wine in La Rioja

Friday, April 11th, 2008
In a region better known for its grapes, the owners of the wineries (or bodegas) of northern Spain have turned their attention to front-of-house impressions. The Marquis de Riscal’s new bodega and hotel at Elciego in Rioja is perhaps ... [Continue reading this entry]

Czech Republic 2007

Friday, April 11th, 2008