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Laurie Lee – Almunecar of the Sugar Canes

Friday, April 11th, 2008

Laurie Lee blurred the division between memoir and travel literature.

A Rose for Winter is the poorest of the Spain books. The naivety and wonder has gone and the writing feels syrupy, the descriptions rose tinted. The gypsies of Andalusia are romanticised almost to cartoon level. My own encounter with gypsies in southern Spain may have coloured this; sprinting after a bag thief in the streets of Cordoba who pulled a knife when confronted. The sort of experience that can only lead to prejudice and a million miles from Lee’s depiction of camp fires and guitars and the loveable vagabond.

Laurie Lee was rescued by the British Navy as the civil war gathered momentum and a memorial graces the main street in Almunecar. The town is close enough to Malaga to have a tourist overlay and pizzerias line the promenade, British and Germans in the bars. He came back and fought and the book of his civil war experiences is a strange one. The war is almost peripheral to the text and the danger inadvertently brought on by his own naivety and ill-health. Lee was too much in love with Spain to be a spy, but I can understand why the Republicans had suspicions.

Laurie Lee died in 1997 and lies buried at Slad in the Cotswold foothills; his gravestone hasn’t had time and weather enough to blend into the churchyard and looks stark on the steep hill. Opposite is the schoolhouse and the landscape of Cider with Rosie, the home he walked away from, to discover the beauty of other lands and to fight and romanticise them so many years later.

Architecture & Wine in La Rioja

Friday, April 11th, 2008

In a region better known for its grapes, the owners of the wineries (or bodegas) of northern Spain have turned their attention to front-of-house impressions.

The Marquis de Riscal’s new bodega and hotel at Elciego in Rioja is perhaps the most daring. Designed by Frank Gehry, it resembles a gayer Guggenheim with pinkish fins and sparkling curves. It’s not finished yet and all the more interesting for it, allowing an eye into its construction.

In the Simpsons, Springfield erects a Gehry building; a conventional structure attacked by wrecking balls to knock out the angles. Not too far from the truth! Underneath the skirts lies the geometry; all girders and supports, a corset to hold it together.

On the road past the bodega, a car lay bashed in a ditch. The consequence of building an incongruous building by a busy bypass? After the Guggenheim in Bilbao and the Los Angeles Concert Hall, Gehry is becoming a one-trick pony, but it’s still a decent trick.

Down the road in Laguardia lies Santiago Calatrava’s sparkling Ysios bodega. The building is glass-fronted with a choppy-waved roof and sits atop a bump in the landscape. Spring-blue skies bounced zig-zag shadows over the vines. A wedding erupted from inside. The entrance hall gave a more critical assessment, a reality of drips and buckets.

Architecture attracts architects. In Bilbao, Gehry built the museum, Norman Foster the metro (a first draft of Canary Wharf) and Calatrava added a bridge and an airport. Now everyone wants a go at bodegas. Richard Rogers is next and, hot on his tail, Norman Foster has one too, both in Ribero del Duero.

La Tomatina, Bunol, Spain

Friday, April 11th, 2008
Rowland Rivron walks past in an Ealingly clean white suit. I point at him, “you’re going down Rivron.” “Not me” he pleads, “get Clarkson instead.” But Jeremy is in a bad mood. He’s munching away on a piece of chicken (”donkey ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tanworth in Arden, England

Friday, April 11th, 2008
I sat on a bench opposite the pub. An elderly lady was sunning herself. “Are you here because of Nick Drake?” she asked. I said I was, um, how did she know? “We can usually spot them,” she said as ... [Continue reading this entry]

Athens, Georgia

Friday, April 11th, 2008
REM of course. And the B52’s. And Pylon I suppose, but REM mostly. I’ve wanted to visit for years. I remember old interviews with the band where they raved about the city. I grew up on REM and I stick ... [Continue reading this entry]

Chelsea Hotel, New York

Friday, April 11th, 2008
The man on reception seemed a bit put out, but reluctantly conceded we did indeed have a booking. “How did you hear about the hotel?” he asked. I said something that I don’t normally say to hotel receptionists, “From the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Czech Republic 2007

Friday, April 11th, 2008

Northern Ireland, Nov 2007

Friday, April 11th, 2008
At George Best airport in Belfast, I cleverly bypassed the bag-in-the-hold queues by forgoing toiletries. A sprint around the chemist replenished my needs. In retrospect, I should have paid greater concentration in the dental section. What appeared to be some ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kyiv, Ukraine April 2008

Friday, April 11th, 2008
I knew things would be a little difficult in Kyiv when I spotted Air Force One on the tarmac as I landed. Major roads in the city were blocked off and the police were at every junction. In Independence Square, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lviv, Ukraine March 2008

Friday, April 11th, 2008
Patience, I was told. You need patience to travel in Ukraine. This isn’t a cheapjet central European destination and there are no stag parties or direct flights to Stansted. English isn’t a natural second language and the alphabet ... [Continue reading this entry]