fillingthegaps

the problem with this blogging business is that it tends to catch up on you – just take your mind off it and days have passed and before you know it, you have one of your daughters breathing down your neck, carping impatiently about the dearth of information.

Now what is more important or interesting? The bewildering traffic culture here, or a visit to the Terracotta Warriors? Or the walk to the playground yesterday to let the children let off steam\ ? (which proved to be a marathon walk with a fizzer of a playground)

I’m sure you like pictures so lets start off with a few from today’s visit to the buried warriors. Fascinating stuff:

some of the warriors looked almost human,,,,,

and there  as a small army on the move….

We were going to take buses out to the Warriors (an hour’s journey) but after bussing to the railway station to pick up the main bus, we  reached agreement with a guy to take us out there in a small coach. It turned out to be a good decision because the trip was quick, comfortable and very convenient. We collected an additional  member to our party as well: a girl from London just starting a year-long OE who has just travelled the route we will be taking in a weeks time. So RnR had a good opportunity to quiz her on a few travel details.

They bill this Terracotta warriors site as the eighth wonder of the world, and when you contemplate the sheer scope of the project, and the artistry involved, the claim has much in its favour. Apparently 720,000 people (slaves?) worked on the project for 40 years. In the meantime, the same Emperor had a small group building the Great Wall of China. There would not have been too many unemployed during his reign!

I should mention that apart from doing the tourist thing, we have been eating – in most un-touristy spots! We have had filled buns from a window in the wall; super-omelets wraps from another such window, dumplings and steamed pow from an assortment of scruffy looking dives, and marvelous fried noodles cooked in a giant wok over a roaring 40 gal drum, and eaten in a back-ally along with the local construction gang.! We have found a good place for dinner which is squeezed between a respectable cafe and a super=dooper restaurant. Ours is most uninviting from the outside, and not much better in – but the food is excellent. Tonight it was a bit full in the front seats so we had to squeeze past the chef and helpers to a few more tables crammed into a tiny back room.

But this Chinese traffic is unlike anything I have seen before.  Oh I am used to KL’s frantic multi-lane chaos, and Bangkok’s wild masses of cars, buses, Tuk-tuks , people and scooters, but China is something else again. Let me try and describe it: in this city of Xi’an there  are apparently 6 million people. The size geographically appears to be less than Auckland. The roads are good quality and come in a variety of widths and configurations. Main roads appear to have 2 or 3 lanes for each direction, with a sort of fence down the middle. Other roads are quite narrow, but often have an additional wide lane on either side, separated from the road by the footpath. One assumes these lanes are for scooters and bikes. Sounds good so far? In addition, at major, traffic-light-controlled intersections there will be two immaculate policemen (or women) with whistles, to assist direct the traffic. Plus quite often, guys with flags at the edges of pedestrian crossings. All of which, one might suppose, would lead to a smooth well-ordered traffic flow. There is only one snag – nobody drives with the slightest regard for any of the above. Admitted, larger vehicles stop for red lights, but everything else just weaves around them. Lights change, whistles shrill, arms wave and the traffic moves on regardless. Now thrown into this mix are a couple of other factors. Officially vehicles drive on the right hand side of the road; but there are seldom centre road markings, and everything uses as much of the road as is convenient.  until they meet something coming at them; scooters and bikes ride on any side and in the middle, in any direction at any time. Finally, many of the cars, scooters and yes bikes, are electric powered so they speed silently along the the streets like phantom destroyers. Woe to you to rely on sound for warning of something coming up behind you! Pedestrian crossings are used by pedestrians but ALL traffic just weaves its way through them. Why the streets are not littered with bodies I cannot fathom. Finally nobody keeps to a lane so the traffic is like a series of serpents  entwined, writhing in deadly combat as each vehicle tries to find the quickest flowing piece of action. And to be in a car that is cutting across 5 lanes of traffic in the space of about 200 meters is quite an experience.

But enough of that. This place is a most ancient walled city – and these walls are really walls! They must be around 10-15 m high and wide enough at the top to ride 6 abreast. We have walked around a few KM of the base and intend to take a look up top in the near future

………….back on a train today, Going from Shanghai to Xi’an.  In my recent posts I have waxed enthusiastic about Chinese trains and their rail systems. I have to modify that view a bit because we have been downgraded to an old model for this journey (starting at midday and arriving at 9.0 am tomorrow.) On the one hand it saves us accommodation for a night; on the other hand I know we are not going to get much sleep on this rinkle-chunkle old rattletrap. We thought we lacked a little privacy on the last sleeper: this one is totally open.

 Still 3-tier bunks facing each other, but of a special design devoid of any discreet paneling to afford some privacy. In fact I have renamed this train Stalag III because it is overseen by Frau Goebells –or the Chinese equivalent. She is our coach manager (I assume) and rules with a humourless rod of bamboo. She doesn’t like us opening the window, she doesn’t let us leave a lollipop on a plate for future consumption; she drags a filthy mop up the corridor and swishes it into our cubicle, scattering feet and boots willy nilly without a word, a smile or even a friendly snarl. The sleeper bunks are of the exposed variety so that Frau Goebells can see what we are up to at all times. We had a rubbish bin for our wrappers etc for the first part of the journey. She has wordlessly confiscated this, presumably to have the contents checked by headquarters before we disembark.

The train has a special way of stopping and we have worked out that they have a large bucket of rocks at the end of each carriage, which they toss under the wheels when ‘stabling’ is required.  (The toilets doors warn that ‘no occupying while stabling is allowed’)  In addition the hydraulic buffers between carriages have been, well, dispensed with so stopping entails violent grumblings followed by by violent bone jarring jerks. You know when you have stopped and are eternally thankful that you are still in one piece.

I’m writing about the process rather than the journey because frankly, the scenery,, what we could see of it through the thick hazy smog, has been forgettable.

As before, endless vistas of fields intermixed with crumbling dwellings, brickworks, huge motorway roads and flyovers, massive factory buildings, hundreds of identical high-rise apartment blocks, paddy fields, ponds of various sizes and stages of stagnation, and all covered in this weird thick haze which restricts visibility to about 1/2km maximum. The haze has got me bluffed. It smells like smog, it stings the eyes and tickles the throat – but smog for 100’s  of kilometers?

A final comment on our guard. My posting was brought to an abrupt end at this point last night when, without warning, all the lights were turned off! That was at 9.45pm!

Anyway, back to the people. The taxi driver who took  us to the station this morning could not have been more friendly. We had ordered two  taxis (why would you need more? there are only 11 of us with 13  backpacks and a large suitcase plus a stroller !) to be taken to the rail station this morning. Rob’s driver, however was distinctly ratty. Probably because  we had ordered the taxis for 12.30 and were running 5 mins late. Plus probably the fact that it takes about 10 mins to get everybody and their packs etc, squeezed into the taxi! However since the total taxi fare was only 21 Yuan and Rob gave him a 10Y tip he was finally happy as well’.

Our arrival in the city of X’i’an  caused the biggest stir yet. It is starting to get to me a little, this open curiosity as if we each had 3 legs and green beards or something. We were supposed to be met at the station by the Hostel people so of course we stood around outside the station looking hopeful. No sign of the pickup. So Rob digs out his laptop and looks up the phone number of the hostel and proceeds to ring them on his cellphone. The crowd that gathered during this 10 min exercise was unbelievable – at least 60 or so people crowding shoulder to shoulder peering over Robs shoulder to see what he was looking at on the laptop and relaying the information to the crowd.

as usual, as soon as I point the camera, they all pretend to be  doing something else! Its the sort of behavior you read about when Capt Cook first landed in the Tahiti, but it is not as if we are the first white people to have visited China. We can only put it down to the size of the family, which is verboten in China of course. I tried just looking directly into the eyes of the audience but they were immoveable. That is, until I got my camera out and started photographing them. Suddenly they find an interest in other things!

However the ordeal ended when Rob was asked by the hostel folk to catch 2 taxis because their van was elsewhere – fares to be refunded. The hostel is really excellent and is located right next to the ancient Walled City which is one of the things we came here to see,

We have been out for a stroll and ‘grazed’ (for lunch) on what looks like semi-glazed sweet pizza bases, buns filled with a variety of pickled veggies, chilly beans and other unknown ingredients, the steamed ‘pow’ both pork and beef filled, and exotic omelet/pancakes containing eggs, veggies, crispy pastry pieces etc.

 That lot from 4 different little shops cost us a total of around 29 Yuan  – about $NZ7. To feed 11 of us. Of course if we chose to go into a restaurant the cost would be a very different story!

Now we are back at base, having a rest before investigating a bit more.

well this was a fairly quiet day in the life of these vagabonds, and I thought it might interest a few of you to get my perspective on it.

Day starts about 7.30 – 8.00am, with sleepy bodies assembling in the largest room for breakfast. Often this is bread (no toasters where we stay!) with a variety of spreads such as vegemite (what will we do when our supplies run out?), lemon curd, honey, or peanut butter. This morning we had a change, with porridge and coconut yoghurt – very tasty.

After breakfast Rob leads the family in a morning devotional time. They have a folder full of memory verses, hymns and choruses. This morning the kids went through about 10 memory verses, sang afew hymns (Veta would have been so pl;eased!) and a few choruses, after which Rob reviewed the story of the Jews wanderings in the desert

Then a rough plan for the day is set out: today needs to be easy going because the younger ones are in need of a battery recharge. We had thought of going to the museum because Shanghai is reputed to have beauty, but we have done 2 museum-type things in the last few days, so reluctantly that idea is dropped and we settle for a walk down to the ‘Bund’ – the river-bank walk which apparently is not to be missed. We only have one full day here, so this will be IT for Shanghai.

Getting out of the guest house is delayed, because the clerks all want to stop us and admire the fair-haired kids. Picture of clerk with kids. Picture of clerk’s assistant with kids, then just as we are escaping, another gentleman turns up and decides he doesn’t  want to miss out, so picture of HIM with the kids! To their credit, the kids have learned to accept this carry-on quite philosophically – even Ella-Rose. So out of the door at last. On the other side of the road a vendor is  selling bamboo shoots: he has them neatly spread out on a sheet of newspaper on the edge of the road. He peels off the outer husks and gives them to a waiting customer

So we set out for the Bund- reputed ly about 1 1/2 km to get there and 1 1/2km long – a mere stroll for this lot. But a hazardous stroll. The traffic in this city is suicidal. There are pedestrian crossings and traffic lights just as you would expect to find in any well developed  city. The difference here is that everybody ignores them, and every body is in one heck of a hurry

(note the green cross now light!)

We admire the flower planters ingeniously incorporated into the bicycle racks, and observe the washing drying in the trees on the roadside (this is in the middle of the city, remember)

Yesterday we walked past a series  of very impressive music shops and we were serenaded by a jazz tenor sax player, then someone on a flute, an impressive recital by someone playing a sort of horizontal harp, and of course some piano. All in different shops.Finally up the steps

and onto the Bund itself: the wide river on one side, with an impressive display of futuristic buildings on the far bank, and on this side an equally impressive assortment of buildings both ancient and modern:

It was not long before (as usual)  someone found our group more interesting than the scenery, and the inevitable crowd gathers and the photo shoot takes place:

The river here is of course right at the sea and so large cruse liners are moored  a bit further down the Bund.  A floating restaurant cruises by reminding jus that we are hungry, and it’s time for lunch.

 So we head back towards our hostel and a little shop that sells delicious dumplings. We  go in and order umpteen steamer-trays of them, find they vanish quickly and order another round, But dumplings are not enough, so  now we head for an even smaller stall where we have discovered delicious steamed buns. We buy about 20 – 10 with pork and 10 with mixed veggies inside.

We head off to a nearby park and demolish the buns.  Some of the boys end up in animated conversation with some nearby ladies, then most of us (not me) try out the exercise equipment provided for ADULT use. (a fairly common sight in these parts)

So having eaten, all finish the walk to ‘home’, the littlies for a rest and me for a Tutorial from Rach on blogging etc. So a restful time until we head out for dinner tonight. Plates of fried rice and more plates of fried veggies. Very tasty!

ps you may have noticed the hazy look to the pics. This is smog which just hangs around permanently, it seems. Time to head for the open road!

It’s a funny thing, but I had a mental picture of Shanghai – probably formed by adventure books read well over half a century ago. “Shanghai” conjured up for me the very essence of the Mysterious Orient:of shadowy Chinese pagodas, Opium dens, sinister slit-eyed villains with large curved knives, and dark alleys with scurrying rats.

But looking at our fellow passengers on the train, my dreams were already crumbling. Here was the usual ordinary mix of mums,dads, business men, grandpas and nannas. Not a rogue in sight. and all bound for Shanghai for as the notice said, ‘no stops between Hong Kong and Shanghai’ Not a curved blade to be spotted. Not even a tattoo, opium pipe or a sinister rogue to be seen. In fact the most sinister looking character I saw on the train was Rob, who had not shaved for some considerable time and had that grimy look of the long-distance traveler.

Yes, non-stop to Shanghai, a distance, by the GPS of just a whisker under 2,000 kms and on an electrified line the whole way. Average speed for the journey was something around 100 kmph, and that included two long unexplained stops

The beds on the train turned out to be comfortable, if a mite narrow. We all managed a sleep of some sort.. but we were all a bit bleary  eyed in the the morning.

The scenery that  we saw during the daylight hours was strange to the Kiwi eye. Where we are used to seeing endless acres of green  paddocks and rolling hills dotted with sheep or cattle, and just  the occasional remote farmhouse, here, for mile upon mile upon mile we saw endless acres of  small paddy  fields or vegetable gardens.

And everywhere were dwellings. From crumbling single level hovels to 6-8 story apartments to palatial houses, often over a hundred all identical.

There seems to be no transition between farming, residential and commercial areas – all  are jumbled together in what can only be described as a huge shambles. Imagine a brickworks surrounded by market gardens broken up  by residential areas, and you will have some idea. Oh, and the ponds and rivers that permeate all areas. I guess the ponds are used to irrigate both paddy and veggie plots, but the ponds back right up to the backs of houses, giving the whole area a dank and mosquito-ridden appearance. And these scenes are repeated seemingly endlessly. There seemed to be little evidence of mechanization on the agricultural side. Many people digging away with the trusty chungkles but not too many tractors.  And this is strange because this country is just booming with development.  New roading, massive fly-overs, new rail tracks, new buildings both commercial and domestic. Everywhere huge projects under way, and yet the rural scene seemed strangely primitive. A country of contrasts alright.

Shanghai railway station is huge, and set up rather like an airport terminal. The trains that arrive from Hong Kong are handled like an incoming flight and all passengers are  subject to customs and passport checks.

 a fairly lengthy business, but handled with speedy efficiency. Chinese Officialdom loves to throw its weight around, but as long as you do as you are told, they are very polite.

We decided to get tickets for the next two  stages of our journey, while we were at the station, and this opened my eyes to some more of the China Way. Rob and I found our way to the ticketing hall. A hall with at least 50 ticket booths, each with a never-ending queue of noisy bustling impatient customers. Bedlam reigned supreme, but one booth had the magic words “English speaking counter” to which we headed.

I understand that before the Beijing Olympics they  ran special training courses for the Chinese hosts, to teach them how to smile and  be warmly welcoming. These ticket booth operators definitely could use that course. Not a flicker of a smile. Not a hint of welcoming you as a paying customer. Not a suggestion of a ‘gooday mate, how’s your day goin?’ No it was a grim humour-less lot behind those glass walls. Sad to see.

Even more interesting was the sight when we returned to Rach and the kids who had been waiting patiently while we went in search of tickets and money with which to purchase same. There they were, surrounded by a group of about 15 men. I assumed these were touts looking for business, so when I reached Rach I asked her if she had struck up a deal with any of them. ‘No I’ve just been as sociable as I can she replied. Then I learned, these were not touts but just people that wanted a close look at this European family. We have caused a bit of a stir quite often in the past, but this open silent inspection, shoulder to shoulder was bizarre. I was so taken by it, I decided to take a photo of them all. You should have seen them melt away when I pointed a camera at them!

Well we have arrived safely. We are in a delightful hostel with all mod con, at a fraction of Hong Kong prices and eating all sorts of delicacies at the very best of prices! All is well with the world!

well I am on the train,  (actually WE are) rocking gently and silently along at (according toRobs GPS) a steady 125kmph. It would need to be reasonably comfortable because this is going to be a 20hr trip, from Hong Kong to Shanghai. The train is incredibly smooth, but maybe that is just because I have been conditioned to NZ’s rail systems – the last epic journey I took from Auckland to Wellington, we did much of the trip at 20kmph because, the Conductor informed us, the rails were buckled due to the heat – and that was on a mild spring day! Even at that speed the train rocked and rolled a bit like the ride I recently had at Disneyland. So this is proving to be a silky ride.

Accommodation does not get quite the same level of accolades, however. The carriage is divided up into cubicles, each with 2 sets of 3-high bunks facing each other. The bunks are designed for the average-sized local inhabitant, which means that Rob will have to fold himself up like a carpenters ruler to fit into its length. Unfortunately the width is proportionately narrow too – so he is in for an uncomfortable night!  There  are no curtains over the bunks, and no curtain over the corridor entrance to the cubicle, so all is open to public scrutiny. I shall not be changing into my Shorty jamas tonight!

The corridor is carpeted and has little fold-down seats hinged to the side of the carriage. These are necessary because the bunks are permanently made up, so if you want to claim your seat during the daytime, you have to recline on your bunk. As a fair degree of athleticism is required to get into the top two levels, the corridor  seats are in great demand. We have staked out our claims!

Our last  morning in Hong Kong was most enjoyable. It was a bright warm sunny day and there were two tasks to be done. One was to pick up our passports (with Russian visas) from the Ruskie embassy over on thee Island, and the other was to take the older kids over to the tallest building to see if we could get to the top and have a look-see. Rach drew the short straw and took ER with her to do the passports. I got the long straw and had the pleasure of taking the 4 older kids across the harbour to do the tall building thing. To add to the fun, we all walked together to the ferry terminal, then Rach took one ferry and we took another. The race was on! Who would get to return to base first? We both had to cross the harbour. We both had to walk to a tall building; we both had to go a long way up in the building, do our business and then return. At the start we were clearly ahead.

                        Thats Rach with ER  at the far left hand side Our ferries left at the same time and as we waved to our rivals across the briny we could see that we were going to dock well before them. Our trip up the tall building was delayed a bit as we were directed to register at the lobby. After going down to the basement car park we eventually arrived at the lobby where the kids presented their student travel ID’s to be scanned, and I solemnly presented my ARC Senior Citizens Travel pass. All were dutifully scanned and full authorized Visitor ID’s were issued and hung around our necks.

We were ushered to the lifts by security personnel and were not allowed out of their sight. The lift whisked us up to the 55th floor in precisely 40 secs. J timed it for us of course. It was fascinating visit. The 55th floor was only just over half way up but the view was still breathtaking.

And the viewing lounge was actually sponsored by the HK Treasury, so it was actually an information display

 on how  their banknotes were produced. (an interesting fact is that 3 different banks are authorized to print money for HK – and they are all different!) So a thorough look at everything took a bit of time. Then we remembered the race! So off we flew, back down the lift, hand in our passes and race back to the ferry terminal.

 Catch the ferry and race back to the digs. Up the lift and – rats! Mum was standing there. She had beaten us by 5 mins. OK she beat us, but I bet we had the most fun.

Well I don’t suppose you can have every  day filled with excitement. The last couple of days I have spent quite a bit of time chugging up and down the commuter train line. Actually chugging is the wrong phrase – these trains glide along with slick speed and efficiency. Inside are quiet, orderly passengers who sit there doing their own thing or occasionally as happened today, start the inevitable conversation ( by sign language) are they all yours? 8 of them? 4 boys, 4 girls? Very good! Smiles and congratulations all round. Not a pierced eyebrow, nose or lip in sight. Not a tattoo in sight. Not even any ‘scruffs’ in sight. One gets the uneasy feeling that such personal decorations might just be agin the law in these parts.

The reason or the train travel, was to go in search of baking soda which is apparently what all thoroughbred greenies use for everything from washing your hair, cleaning your teeth and preventing ingrowing toenails to polishing the family silver.  It seemed that Rach’s supplies were getting low, and so we had to find more. Our couch surf host gave us the tip-off, where to buy this stuff in mega-sized packs. The spot was three stops down the line and so off went Rob and I in search of the dreaded white powder. We had been advised to go certain super market. This we eventually found, discreetly nestling in one corner of the biggest mega-mall I am likely to see for a long time.

Of course there was no mega pack to be found, but even if we had found it, we would not have bought it. With a mini-jar of vegemite costing HK$38, I shudder to think what the giant economy size pack of soda  would have cost.  So we returned, more  or less empty handed, apart from half the bread sections supply, for our breakfast.

But we have had some more interesting encounters: on the train a well-groomed lady (in her 50’s I imagine) insisted on giving up her seat for me (by crikey, I must be looking even more decrepit than I feared) She then proceeded to do the usual thing of counting the kids etc.   Later this evening we walked into noodle shop we had visited once before, a few days ago, The proprietor was delighted to see his little blond girls again and was all over them like a rather noxious rash. The girls endured stoically and without offending the owner. It paid off handsomely! At the end of our meal, the kids then all got served hot chocolates, and then we were all plied with pomelos and oranges! Sometimes it is quite helpful to have these little angles in tow!

Finally, if you are still with me, I saw a sight the other day that immediately had me thinking of a couple of good families I know, who have an addiction to a card game named “Shanghai”  Whenever they guy together with 10 mins on their hands, out come the cards. This group made me think of them, maybe in a few years time!

Oh, the title just refers to the fact that most days we seem to be waking up in a different bed, and most of them are fairly memorable – I’ll and a pic or two now and again,

     Couch surfing                                               Bangkok airport

when you are travelling for a year, and your daddy isn’t Rockefeller all Bill gates, you have to watch your pennies (especially when your home currency takes a nose-dive, like the Kiwi dollar)  So we don’t spend any longer than you have to in a place that is expensive. Just to give you a little idea of our apartment block, this is a view down the air-well, viewed from our bathroom window!Waitakere Council would love it. A genuine plumber’s nightmare.

…but the rooms themselves were very tidy…..

And Hong Kong is expensive! Gone are the days when HK was THE place for a bargain p most things here are more expensive than NZ and even the REAL budget accommodation is costing more than we like to pay (HK$200 for a room for one night) Not too bad for just two of you but when you have 11 in a party, costs start to add up! So after 3nights in the Nathan Rd apartment block, we have taken a 20 min train ride down the line to Tai Poh Market, where we are ;couch-surfing for 3 nights. This is where a friendly soul opens up his house and lets you crash for free, if you can find somewhere to sleep, on the floor! Not as bad as it sounds. You get to meet some interesting people, they usually have a mattress or two, and there is no charge!

Our host here is a young Indian Expat, doing research at the local University. As a hobby/sport, he is a Uni-cyclist, and I have been admiring his bike in detail. We are all tucked into 2 bedrooms so it looks a bit like a refugee camp but we are very comfortable.

Rather amusing – Rob decided to buy some bread for tomorrow;s breakfast before we moved out of Nathan Rd in case we were not near any shops. When we got here we discovered that this place is like Orchard Rd in Singapore- Huge malls , glittering shops plus all-night fruit and veggie markets etc. Shops for Africa!

Tomorrow we take the train back to Nathan rd then catch the ferry across to Hong Kong Island to visit the Russian embassy  – to lodge our Visa applications. With good fortune they will be ready in a week. The kids are looking forward to the trip The ferry ride for one thing, and the lift in the embassy building goes like a rocket they tell me,so that should be fun!

Oh I have also got myself organized with new specs. After the cataract op I needed to change my specs. Had no time to  do it in NZ but now that the eyes have settled down I am able to get the specs organised, Ordinary specs take 2 hours but I am getting progressive lenses with Transitional lens material (instant shade correction for sunlight) and titanium unbreakable frames. All very flash, and I can pick these up in 4 days time (slight delay because the weekend came into that 4 day calculation!)

So life is going along nicely thanks. A few pics to let you see the terrain we have been travelling over.